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NETTLETON'S 

GUIDE 

TO 

PLYMOUTH, STONEHOUSE, 
DEVONPORT, 

AND TO THE 

NEIGHBOURING COUNTRY; 

WITH DETAILED DESCRIPTIONS OF THE 

DOCK YARD, NEW VICTUALLING YARD, 
BREAKWATER AND EDDYSTONE LIGHTHOUSE; 

( Illustrated with three Maps and numerous Prints.) 



WRITTEN rOJl THE PROPR'ETOR 
BY 

GEORGE WIGHTWICK, Architect. 



#lgmoutf) : 
PUBLISHED BY EDWARD NETTLETON, 

( Ptintei to His Majesty and to H.R. H. the Duke of Sussex} 

WHIMPLE STREET ; 

AND SOLD BY W. COLMAN, FORE-STREET, DEVONPORT J 
AND E. COLE, FORE-STREET, STONEHOUSE. 

1836. 






^ 



ADVERTISEMENT. 



The present little work has been composed, 
with the assistant facilities afforded in an early 
Guide Book by the Rev. Samuel Rowe. 

The author is also much indebted to numerous 
gentlemen in the three towns, for the promptitude 
with which they furnished all required informa- 
ation ; and in particular to H. Chatfield, Esq. 
for his industrious aid in the article upon the 
Dock Yard. He has likewise to acknowledge 
the same kindness on the part of several 
gentlemen connected with New Victualling 
Establishment. 

To Mr. Rowe, as a primitive labourer in the 
topography of this neighbourhood, the public 
must ever remain a debtor. The later book 
may supersede the earlier ; but the name of the 
original author will maintain its place. 



Athenaeum Terrace, 
Plymouth, May, 1836. 



List of Maps and Prints. 



1 View of St. Andrew's Church, Tower, &c. to face the title. 

2 General plan of Streets and Thoroughfares, to face page 1 

3 Map of Plymouth Sound and Breakwater 4 

4 Map of the Towns and their Vicinities 5 

5 Elevations of two old Houses in Notte Street, Plymouth 1 3 

6 Plan and Elevation of Plymouth Royal Hotel, Theatre 

and Assembly Rooms 15 

7 Plan and Elevation of the Athenaeum 17 

8 Elevation of the " South Devon and East Cornwall 

Hospital and Plymouth Public Dispensary" .... 27 (a) 

9 Plan of " The Royal Victualling Yard," and Eleva- 

tion of the Entrance Gate 52 

10 Devonport Column, &c 61 

11 Plan and Elevation of the Town Hall Portico 63 

12 Breakwater, Plan and Section 102 

13 Eddystone Lighthouse : Elevation and Section 109 

14 View of Lary Bridge, &c 127 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



Page 
INTRODUCTORY SKETCH ; with general descrip- 
tion of the three Towns, and vicinity 1 

BOROUGH OF PLYMOUTH.— Stranger's Guide.— 
Principal Inns ; Lodging Houses ; Baths ; Hacknev 
Coaches ; Post Office ; Citadel, &c. ; Hotel, Assem- 
bly Rooms and Theatre : AthenaeEm ; St. Andrew's 
Chapel ; Public Library ; St. Andrew's Church ; 
Guildhall ; Charles' Church ; Custom House ; Royal 
Baths ; Hospital and Dispensary 7 

Supplemental Summary, Municipal Information ; Cha- 
ritable Institutions ; Races ; Regatta ; Horticultural 
Society ; Historic Sketch 29 

STONEHOUSE. Stranger s Guide. Inns; Lodging 
Houses ; Gas Company ; St. George's Chapel ; 
St. Paul's Chapel; Marine Barracks; Victualling 
Yard ; Naval Hospital 49 

Supplemental Summary 58 

DEVONPORT. Stranger's Guide. Inns ; Lodging 
Houses and Baths ; Hackney Coaches ; Post Office ; 
Column ; Town Hall ; Library ; Mount Zion Chapel ; 
St. Aubyn's Chapel ; St. John's Chapel ; Dock Yard 
Chapel ; Government House ; Port Admiral's House ; 
Richmond Walk 61 

Supplemental Summary . . 69 

The Dock Yard and Gun Wharf 74 

STOKE. Stranger's Guide. Belmont House ; Block 
House ; Stoke Church ; Military Hospital 89 

Supplement • • • 92 

MORICE TOWN. Stranger's Guide. Powder 
Magazine • 93 



CONTENTS. 

Page 

Torpoint Bridge 95 

Supplement 97 

PLYMOUTH SOUND. Stranger's Guide 99 

Breakwater 99 

Eddystone Lighthouse 104 

Mount Edgcumbe 113 

Maker, Cawsand, Rame, Milbrook, &c 120 

Sharrow Grot 123 

Saltram, Lary Bridge, &c 125 

Rail Road, Bickleigh Vale, &c 134 

Kitley, the Yealm, &c 137 

The Erme, Ivy Bridge, &c 1 39 

Trematon Castle and Port Eliot 143 

Tavistock and its Neighbourhood, MorwelJ Rocks, 

Lidford, &c , 148 

Endsleigh, Launceston, &c 159 

Dartmoor 163 

Cotehele and Pentillie 168 

Carrington, the Poet 171 

Appendix 173 

Index . . . * 183 



INTRODUCTORY SKETCH. 



The stranger, uninfluenced by local sympathies and 
mere parish politics, will regard Plymouth, Stonehouse, 
and Devonport, as one large and important town, 
occupying the great portion of a paralellogram, 1\ miles 
in length by one mile in breadth, and containing a 
population of nearly one hundred thousand souls. 

On passing rapidly through the principal thoroughfare 
which unites the three divisions, he will be more 
awakened to its extent than to its beauty. He will 
remark, that (as far as he can judge) Plymouth is 
inconveniently irregular, Stonehouse insipidly the 
reverse, and that the Fore Street of Devonport is the 
handsomest commercial street between the Eastern 
entrance of Plymouth, and the Dock Yard on the 
extreme west. He will glance at many handsome 
shops, and some respectable rows of private houses ; 
^but, unless he obtain by chance a passing glimpse at the 
Royal Hotel of Plymouth, and the Town Hall of 
Devonport, he will entertain a temporary opinion far 
from flattering to the architectural pretensions of the 
towns, and which, though not obvious to a stage coach 
spectator, are many and considerable. In brief, he will 
speak in total ignorance of the redeeming features which 
are subsequently to meet his eye and charm his sense ; 
of scenic beauty unique in its kind ; of public works 
remarkable for extent and grandeur; and of many less 
striking, but equally pleasing evidences to the acquired 
and still thriving importance of our Western Emporium. 

!By a reference to our map of leading thoroughfares, 
&c. the respective localities of the three towns will be 
at once explained. The brown colour indicates the 
principal streets ; the portions etched are supposed to 
S. be occupied more or less with minor streets and 
numerous private residences ; and the leading Naval, 



2 INTRODUCTORY SKETCH, 

Military, and other Government Establishments are 
marked by a tint of red. The figures are hereunder 
referred to as marking the respective localities of the 
following buildings : — 

1, St. Andrew's Church. 11, Athenaeum. 

2, Charles' Church. 12, Stonehouse Church. 

3, Exchange. 13, Stonehouse Chapel. 

4, Custom House. 14, Eldad Chapel. 

5, Guildhall. 15, Stoke Church. 

6, Public Library. 16, Government House. 

7, Freemasons' Hall. 17, St. Aubyn's Chapel. 

8, Charles' Chapel. 18, St. John's Chapel. 

9, St. Andrew's Chapel. , 19, Monumental Column. 
10, Hotel, Assembly Rooms 20, Town Hall. 

and Theatre. 21, Public Library. 

It will be observed, that the united towns cover an 
irregular site, broken into by several small bays and 
creeks ; bounded on the east, by the commercial 
harbour of Catvvater and Saltram Lake (the mouth of 
the River Plym ;) and on the west by the noble harbour 
of Hamoaze, which forms the mouth of the Tamar River, 
separating the counties of Devonshire and Cornwall. 

The great body of the Plymouth division occupies a 
hollow, formed by North Hill on the inland side, and 
on the water side by an airy elevation called the Hoe, 
the summit and declivity of which are laid out in 
promenades, where the inhabitants may at once inhale 
the ever-fresh breeze of health, and luxuriate in an 
enchanting picture of sea and land, constantly varying 
in effect, and, in every variety, most beautiful. From 
hence, the spectator commands the full expanse of 
Plymouth Sound; the pine clad heights of Mount 
Edgcumbe on his right ; the verdant banks of Staddon 
on the left; the Breakwater in the middle distance, 
breasting with its mile of artificial rock the " rude sea " 
beyond, and diminished by space and partial conceal- 
ment from a gigantic mole to a mere line ; the extended 



INTRODUCTORY SKETCH. 3 

horizon of the English Channel, with the dimly seen 
Eddystone bounding the outward view ; and the 
picturesque Island of St. Nicholas, with a fore ground 
of rock and verdure, completing the nearer prospect. 

Stonehouse, for the most part occupies the same level 
with Plymouth; and, from Cremill Point, there is a 
finer view of Mount Edgcwnbe, separately considered, 
than from the Hoe, or, perhaps any other situation. 
This remark is particularly urged upon the notice of 
the stranger, whose ideas as to the magnitude and 
character of the celebrated feature in question may 
require for their fulfilment, that proximity, which the 
point of view here recommended sufficiently affords. 
Prom hence you obtain also a glance into the mouth of 
Hamoaze, where the flag ship is usually stationed ; 
and, from the summit, (by the reservoir) a curious bird's- 
eye-view of the New Victualling Establishment. 

Devonport is situate on an eminence considerably 
above Plymouth and Stonehouse, which it overlooks 
with all the pride of martial dignity and protection. 
Here also, the lover of the scenic (it can scarcely be 
called "the picturesque ") may gratify a yet untried 
taste ; for we doubt, whether a prospect so strangely 
interesting as that commanded by the gallery of the 
monumental Column is to be found elsewhere. In 
addition to acres of land and water, hill and valley, 
town and country, w T e look down upon the several 
building slips of the Dock Yard, one of which is covered 
by a single roof, of acres one and a quarter ! The 
combined aspect of the Dock Yard, and the expansive 
waters of Hamoaze, (where, at this moment of our 
writing, between 90 and 100 ships of war are 
" reposing on their own shadows/') is truly impressive.* 
The Village of Torpoint on the opposite side of the 
water, bearing north west, is, as it were, the vestibule 

* March 6th, 1835 — In commission, 7 ; not in commission, 
64 ; in dock, 4; old ships for harbour use, 7 ; 1 sheer hulk, 
and 5 others > now building, 5. 

a 2 



4 INTRODUCTORY SKETCH. 

into South Cornwall, and communicates with New 
Passage, Devonport, by means of a Steam Flying 
Bridge, contrived under the masterly superintendence of 
J. M. Rendel, Esq. and of which a particular account 
will be hereafter given. 

Morice Town ascends Eastward from the harbour to 
the widely extended and populous Village of Stoke, 
which occupies a still higher elevation than Devonport, 
and includes the Block-house, marked in our plan. 
The panoramic view from hence is justly celebrated, as 
challenging (in the words of Mr. Rowo) " a high rank 
among the many delightful prospects which 

" England holds 
" Within her world of beauty." 

To conclude these general remarks upon the scenic 
riches of the immediate neighbourhood, we may mention 
the charming views from Woodside, (see map) those 
in and from Mount Edgcumbe, and the extraordinary 
prospects from certain positions on Cat-down, and 
Staddon Heights, enthusiastically eulogized by the 
greatest landscape painter of the day. 

By reference to the small map, engraved as a " Guide 
to Plymouth Sound and Breakwater/' a correct idea 
may be formed as to their form, magnitude, and relative 
position, with the English Channel on the south, and 
the three towns on the north. It will be seen, that the 
opening of the Sound between Penlee Point and the 
Shag Stone is about three miles; that it afterwards 
widens into Cawsand Bay, and is subsequently con- 
tracted by the promontory of Mount Edgcumbe : that 
the Breakwater is abouta mile within the opening of the 
Sound, and about two and a quarter miles from the Hoe 
Cliffs. It will be also observed, that after passing the 
narrow strait of Cremill, or the Devil's Point, the waters 
greatly expand themselves, and supply not only the deep 
and capacious harbour of Hamoaze, but also {see map, 3) 
numerous shallow lakes and ramifications. The Eddy- 



shall spl 




a 3 



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GUIDE to PLYMOUTH SOOTH) a^d BREAKWATER, 



S P 




A 3 



v m J 




GENERAL OUTLINE of Ad ENVIRONS of P.LY&OCTH and DEVOKPORT* 



INTRODUCTORY SKETCH. 5 

stone Lighthouse, distant from Plymouth about fourteen 
miles, and from llame Head (the nearest point of land) 
about nine miles, is situate in the direction marked by 
the two lines diverging towards the Plymouth Citadel. 

The map, No. 3, gives the positions of the combined 
Port, its Sound and Harbours, in relation to the 
localities of its environs, extending east and west, 
seventeen miles each way, and about twenty miles 
north. It may here be stated, that Plymouth is 216 
miles from London, and 44 miles from Exeter. Its 
distance from the chief of the smaller towns marked on 
the map, is as follows : — Tavistock, 15: Ashburton, 24 : 
Liskeard, 18 : Laimceston, 27. The stage coach roads 
alone are coloured ; and the single red line, marks the 
course of the Rail Road from the Quays of the Port to 
the Granite Quarries in Dartmoor. We shall have 
occasion to allude hereafter to the surpassing beauty of 
the Rail Road scenery. The southern portion of Dart- 
moor is indicated by a tint of green. This remarkable 
Forest opens a grand source of interest to all who visit 
Devonshire. Its numerous Tors of "herbless granite" 
arrest the distant eye, while the antiquarian and mine- 
ralogist rejoice in exploring its super and substratic curio- 
sities — its Druidical remains, or mines of tin and copper. 
From its dreary summit flows many a torrent to 
follow its rocky course towards the sea; and though 
the interior be for the most part monotonously desolate, 
the boundaries may be described as unsurpassable in 
richness and beauty. We may, perhaps, be allowed to 
compare Dartmoor to a black velvet pall surrounded 
with golden fringe. 

It will be observed that our Environs include a con- 
siderable portion of Cornwall, separated as before stated 
from Devon by the Tamar river, which is readily 
traceable through our map from south to north. Of 
the scenic beauties of this river, including the Duke of 
Bedford's Cottage at Endsleigh, the Rocks of Morwell, 
and the interesting seats of Cothele and Pentillie we 
shall speak in due time. The rivers Tavy, Plym, 
a 3 



6 INTRODUCTORY SKETCH. 

Lynher, Yealm, Erme, Lid, and Dart, are also within 
the province of our descriptive labours, together with 
the noble residences of the Earl Mount Edgcumbe, of 
the Earl St. Germans, Saltram, the seat of the Earl of 
Morley, the beautiful mansions of Antony, Thanckes, 
Warleigh, Maristow, Buckland Abbey, Kitley, &c. and 
several interesting pieces of Gothic antiquity, including 
the Castles of Launceston, Trematon, and Plympton, 
and the extensive remains of Tavistock Abbey. 

We trust in being at least excused for giving this 
general sketch of the various matters, which await, and 
deserve the notice of all visitors and others, who really 
desire an acquaintance with the United Towns and their 
Environs/ Our motive has been, to awaken them to a 
sense of the much they have to do — if they have time : 
not to terrify them — if they have not. It is only hoped, 
that none of our eulogies will lead to disappointment, 
and that if the select subjects seen by the visitor should 
corroborate the show-man's word, he may be received 
as the correct topographer of the unseen remainder. 

Having thus taken a general survey of our subject as 
a connected whole, we proceed to consider, separately, 
its several component features ; nor are we, in giving 
precedence to Plymouth, actuated by any other feeling 
than is due to the parent town. 

It will also be our aim to put foremost such informa- 
tion, as a visiting stranger, limited to time, will naturally 
desire to be supplied with. To many (perhaps most) 
travellers, the ancient history of a town is a matter of 
secondary consideration ; and, anxious during their 
brief stay, to behold things merely as they now exist, 
they are content to postpone the perusal of past epochs, 
until they lounge (sated with sight-seeing) in the 
cushioned comfort of their departing post-chaise. This 
is no intimation that such things will be omitted, or even 
slighted, but that they will be found, together with the 
usual quantum of municipal information, accounts of 
charities, commercial and other matters, in a separate 
portion of the book. 



BOROUGH OF PLYMOUTH. 



STRANGER'S GUIDE. 



Principal Inns. 

The first Inn of importance, on entering Plymouth 
from the Exeter Road, is Rowe's King's Arms. 

The Commercial Hotel, in Old Town Street, is the 
next to the traveller from Exeter, and the first on 
entering from Tavistock. Further on, at the west end 
of Bedford-street, is the Globe Hotel; and next appears 
the Royal Hotel, &c. &c. forming a stately, and to the 
humble visitor, a somewhat startling appearance with 
its Ionic porticoes and extended elevations. 

Lodging Houses. 

In addition to the several leading conveniences just 
enumerated, are many Lodging Houses pleasantly 
situated, either in quiet or more bustling quarters, as 
may be desired. 

Baths 

of every description may be had at a few minutes notice, 
at the establishment in Union Street. (See page 26.) 

Hackney Coaches 

are generally in readiness at the several stands, viz : the 
Royal Hotel, Bedford Street, Old-town Street, Treville 
Street, kc. and Omnibuses are constantly plying to and 
fro, between the eastern extremity of Plymouth and the 
western ditto of Devonport. 
a 4 



o PLYMOUTH. 

The Post Office 

is in Bilbury Street; there are also receiving Boxes at 
the Royal Hotel, and near the north end of Old Town 
Street. (See page 3 3. J 

For Fares, and information as to Coaches, Waggons, 
Vans, &c. ; Steam Boats, Packets, &c, &c. (Seepage 32, 
and Appendix.) 

Supposing the visitor duly restored from the fatigues 
of travel by repose and refreshment in his temporary 
quarters at the Inn or Lodging House, we shall anticipate 
his desire to inhale the sea breeze, and enjoy the prospect 
from the Hoe. Passing the smaller portico of the Hotel 
on his right, and a little further, St. Andrew's granite- 
fronted Chapel on his left, he will descry the opening 
into Princess Square, a small, but imposing quadrangle 
of severe Greek architecture, of which, with other like 
matters we shall in due time fully speak. Tracing the 
gradual ascent of Lockyer Street, the visitor will pass 
the end of Windsor Terrace, a remarkably neat line of 
houses recently erected, and forming portion of an 
extended scheme of similar character. Continuing the 
ascent, he shortly arrives on the summit of the Hoe, 
where we leave him to pause a moment and look around ! 

Of the view, looking sea-ward, we have already 
spoken in our introductory remarks. A removable 
Camera building of wood, or the railed platform on 
which, during the fitting season, it is erected, mark the 
spot from which Mr. Barker took the material for his 
grand panorama exhibited in London ; from hence, 
beginning with Mount Edgcumbe on the right, the eye 
passes onward over Cawsand Bay to the tower on Penlee 
Point, and, if clear, reaches the Eddystone Lighthouse, 
appearing to the naked eye like a sail on the horizon. 
On the extreme opposite to Penlee Point, are seen the 
Mew and Shag Stones ; and nearer, within the Sound, 
the Breakwater, buffeting the open sea, and leaving a 
safe harbour of an oft-times glassy smoothness in its 
rear. Opposite the eastern end of this celebrated 



STRANGER S GUIDE. 9 

barrier, is Bovisand Bay, with its fresh water reservoir 
and arched quays, a small but pleasing object in the 
picture. The line of Staddon Heights brings the eye 
forward to Mount Batten, crowned with a circular fort, 
once stained with the blood of civil warriors, and now 
mounted with the flag of the harbour master. More 
than a slight glance into the mouth of Catwater harbour 
is prevented by the bold outline of the Citadel, a grand 
feature in one of Turner's views of coast scenery. 
Leaving the Citadel, the eye passes over the woods of 
Saltraru and other varieties of that neighbourhood; 
ranges delighted over the distant undulations of Dart- 
moor ; and then, by a kind of visual bathos, sinks upon 
the slated and tiled roofs of Old Plymouth ; climbs the 
handsome square tower of St. Andrews, and the pine- 
appled spire of Charles' Church ; takes a horizontal flight 
over Woodside to North Hill, and descends upon the 
western quarter of Modern Plymouth. 

The panorama is completed by the thickly inhabited 
elevations of Stoke and parts of Stonehouse below, the 
town of Devonport with its Column and Steeples 
bearing further west, and the remote Hills of Cornwall 
carrying the eye onward to its first point of observation 
on Mount Edgcumbe. It only remains to mention the 
fortified Island of St. Nicholas on the right below, and 
the Lime Stone Quarries of the Western Hoe (private 
property) now in active operation, with a view to an 
extensive building-scheme, proposed to occupy the site 
after it shall have been worked to certain levels. The row 
of cottages on the summit are to be regarded as of 
temporary duration, being erected by the proprietor, 
Thomas Gill, Esq. for the residence of the numerous 
labourers employed in the preparatory work of excava- 
tion, &c. and which, from the magnitude of the plan, 
will necessarily require a period of some duration. The 
stuccoed building facing the Eastern Hoe, at the end 
of the line of cottages, is used during the week as a 
school for the children, and on Sunday as a chapel for 

a 5 



10 PLYMOUTH. 

the families resident on the spot, to which important end 
it was licensed by the Bishop, in 1835. 

The mean-looking Obelisk on the eastern part of the 
Hoe, is important as a land mark to ships entering the 
Sound. The carriage roads above and below, together 
with the various footpaths on the declivity are constantly 
being extended or repaired by the workhouse paupers. 

Among the legends of Ancient Plymouth, the most 
remarkable is connected with the Hoe, where, it is said, 
a mighty combat took place between Brutus' kinsman, 
Corinseus, and a Giant. Of course, the former, being 
the smaller man, was the greater hero, and manifested 
his superior prowess by hurling his huge opponent into 
the sea.* The supposed place of their encounter was 

* The legend is quaintly described by Drayton in his " Poly- 
Olbion." The Trojans having arrived in Albion, in the " verie 
place where Totnesse now doth stand," first set up their Gods, 

" Kissing the blessed shore ; 

Then forraging this He, long promis'd them before, 
Amongst the ragged Cleeues those monstrous Giants sought : 
Who (of their dreadfullkind) t'appall the Troians, brought 
Great Gogmagog, an Oake that by the roots could teare : 
So mightie were (that time) the men who liued there : 
But, for vse of Armes he did not vnderstand 
(Except some rock or tree, that comming next to hand 
Hee raz'd out of the earth to execute his rage) 
Hee challenge makes for strength, and otTereth there his gage, 
Which, Covin taketh vp, to answer by and by, 
Vpon this sonne of Earth his vtmost power to try. 

All, doubtful to which part the victorie would goe, 
Vpon that loftie place at Piimmouth call'd the Hoe, 
Those mightie Wrastlers met ; with many an irefull looke 
Who threatned, as the one hold of the other tooke : 
But, grapled, glowing fire shines in their sparkling eyes. 
And, whilst at length of arme one from the other lyes, 
Their lusty sinewes swell like cables, as they striue : 
Their feet such trampling make, as though the forc't to driue 
A thunder out of earth ; which stagger'd with the weight : 
Thus, eithers vtmost force vrg'd to the greatest height. 
Whilst one vpon his hip the other seeks to lift, 
And th'adverse (by a turne) doth from his cunning shift, 
Their short-fetcht troubled breath a hollow noise doth make, 



stranger's guide. 11 

formerly indicated by the "portraiture of two men cut 
out in the ground, the one bigger and the other less, 
(whom they term Gog-Magog) and repaired by order of 
the townsmen, when cause required/'* 

The struggles of these mighty men of yore are to the 
present day emulated by the prize wrestlers of Devon 
and Cornwall, who annually " hold tourney " on the 
Hoe. Here, also, the military frequently assemble with 
drum and colour, and from hence the yearly Regatta is 
advantageously viewed by assembled thousands. 

On leaving the Hoe, half an hour may well be spent 
in perambulating the 

Citadel, 

built in the reign of Charles II, and consisting of three 
regular and two irregular bastions ; the curtains of the 
regular bastions being further strengthened by two 
ravelins and horn-works ; on the east, north, and west 
sides, are a deep ditch, counterscarp, and covered way 
palisadoed; the parapets are pierced for 1 20 cannon ; 
the lower fort is connected with the Citadel, and is 
chiefly intended to defend the Sound. The entrance is 
on the town side, through two gates, of which the second 



Like bellowes of a Forge. Then Covin vp doth take 
The Giant twixt the grayns ; and, voyding of his hould 
(Before his combrous feet he well recouer could) 
Pitcht head-long from the hill ; as when a man doth throw 
An Axtree, that with sleight deliueid from the toe 
Rootes vp the yeelding earth ; so that his violent fall, 
Strooke Neptune with such strenth, asshouldred him withall ; 
That where the monstrous waues like Mountaines late did 

stand, 
They leap't out of the place, and left the bared sand 
To gaze vpon wide heauen : so great a blowe it gaue. 
For which, the conquering Brute, on Corineus braue 
This home of land bestow'd, and markt it with his name ; 
Of Covin, Cornwall call'd, to hisimmortall fame." 

* Carew's Survey of Cornwall. 
A 6 



12 PLYMOUTH. 

is a choice specimen of a bad style. The buildings 
within consist of the lieutenant-governor's and other 
officers' houses, barracks, hospital, chapel, magazine 
and armoury. The centre is adorned with a fine bronze 
statue of George the Second, attired as a Roman warrior, 
crowned with laurel, and bearing a truncheon in his 
extended hand. It was the work of Robert Pitt, and 
erected, 1728, at the expense of Louis Dufour, Esq. 
an officer of the Citadel. The figure is placed on a 
pedestal, ornamented with the royal arms, and inscribed 
with a Latin and English dedication. The Latin 
inscription ends with the following verse, characteristic 
of a great monarch : 

PACIS AMAKS RECTIQUE TENAX ARMISQUE TIMENDUS 
REX MAGNUS POPULOS QUOS REGIT ILLE BEAT. 

The visitor is permitted to walk round the ramparts 
under strict injunctions to "keep off the grass,' 7 and 
other matters of which if he be ignorant, the sentinel 
will soon inform him. He will do well, on entering, to 
turn up the path on his left, and follow his course round 
the eastern half only. This will afford him an inte- 
resting view of Catwater harbour, the port of Plymouth, 
and other objects not visible from the Hoe. He may 
then descend into the parade, and make his exit, as 
the continuation of his walk round the western half 
of the ramparts will only lead to a repetition of what he 
has seen before. This fortification is occupied by the 
lieutenant-governor and other officers; and as a station 
for troops, a company of which garrisons St. Nicholas' 
Island, and is relieved monthly. Descending from the 
Citadel, the lower and more ancient part of the town is 
approached under a Gate-house, "the only remaining 
evidence of Plymouth having been once a walled town." 
It is now private property, forming part of the residence 
of Captain Wise, R.N. C.B. and entitled Hoe Gate.— 
Following the narrow street before us, we find ourselves 
in Notte Street, a gloomy thoroughfare, but worthy of 



stranger's guide. 13 

notice as exhibiting two interesting specimens of that 
style of domestic architecture which prevailed in the 
reigns of the Charles. 

Notte Street, to the right, after entering from Hoe-lane, 
leads to that part of the town " where Merchants most 
do congregate," viz. Sutton Pool Harbour, Barbican, 
and its numerous Quays ; the Custom House, the 
Exchange, and other offices connected with the Port, as 
hereafter to be described. 

To the left hand, Notte Street leads to Sussex Place 
and Princess Square, thence, by the New Grammar 
School, and St. Andrew's Terrace and Chapel, to the 
Royal Hotel — The narrow streets branching north from 
Notte Street, lead into the body of the town. 

We will suppose that our visitor next desires a glance 
at the general aspect of the town internally. It will be 
observed, that the principal thoroughfares are irregular 
in disposition ; and that Whimple Street, though perhaps 
the most bustling of the whole, is the narrowest; here, 
however, and in Bedford, Old Town, Treville, and 
Buckwell Streets, will be found excellent shops of every 
description, some of them exhibiting fronts of chaste 
architectural character. 

The Market Place occupies three acres of ground, and 
may be entered from Cornwall Street, East Street, or 
Drake Street. In the large central area (ordinarily 
occupied by the carts, &c. of the country venders,) are 
held the annual fairs of April and November: the 
market days are Monday, Thursday, and Saturday. 

The northern part of the Town is chiefly made up 
of regular streets of small houses "neat and trimly 
dressed," bespeaking respectability and limited means, 
and amusingly contrasted with certain exceptions of 
earlier date, whose substantial brick fronts and ponderous 
cornices are perhaps more akin to the feelings of the 
"good old English gentleman." Boon's Place and 
Gascoigne Terrace, marked on our plan, occupy a lofty 
rear rank overlooking the town, and commanding some 
of the scenic beauties beyond. 
a 7 



14 PLYMOUTH. 

In lowly imitation of the great Metropolis, Plymouth 
has also her " West End " largely occupied by legal and 
medical professors, and a sufficient mingling of classic 
intelligence and fashion. Here, around the leading 
public buildings, are collected several ranges of excellent 
houses recently built, testifying a laudable progression 
in the taste of the public, which is certainly more 
obviously shewn by the architecture of a town than 
by any other symbol of civilization. Any remarks of a 
censorious character upon the school of Plymouth art, are, 
from self-evident reasons, to be strictly avoided by the 
Author of this little work, which he supposes addressed 
to such as are capable of judging for themselves, and 
which will therefore aspire to nothing more than the 
engagement of their attention towards such objects as 
may pretend to critical notice. Even in giving the 
designer's name, it may happen that some injustice will 
follow, in criticising the work to which that name is 
attached, without reference to the thwarting difficulties 
under which it may have been effected. 

Princess Square, as essentially architectural in cha- 
racter, deserves the notice of the visitor. It is formed 
by four corresponding elevations, the entrance to each 
house being furnished with a plain portico of massive 
Doric proportions. At the east end of the north range 
is the Mechanics' Institute. Princess Square is from 
the designs of Mr. Foulston, the first modern architect 
of any eminence, who essayed to give a classic tone to 
Plymouth. How successful has been that essay, his 
followers will honestly avouch, while they gratefully 
regard him as a powerful pioneer, who has smoothed 
down the ruggedness of the public mind, and left it 
readily and generously accessible to their professional 
taste and exertions. 

The low Doric building, with its bell turret, imme- 
diately without the N.W. angle of the Square, is a 
School-house designed by Mr. Chappie. ( See Appendix, 
Schools.) Sussex Place leading eastward from the S.E. 
angle of the Square is now in progress from designs by 



STRANGERS GUIDE. 15 

the Author of this work, who is also answerable for the 
defects of Athenaeum Terrace, (the more eastern of the 
two ranges opposite the Crescent.) The Crescent, 
(designed by Mr. Hutchins) has the advantage of a large 
enclosed garden and private approach between two 
octagonal Tuscan Lodges. The general appearance of 
Western Plymouth is, in sober truth, strikingly hand- 
some, and we may particularly allude to the general 
effect of the picture as viewed from the lower extremity 
of the Crescent, whence, in grand addition to all the 
rest, we have the beautiful perspective of the Athenaeum, 
portico, and the proud octastyle of the Theatre. The 
streets are hereabout spacious, clean, and therefore 
cheerful : well paved with (for the most part) Plymouth 
marble, and supplied with the means of being amply 
lighted by gas. (See Index.) 

Union Street forms, with its Stonehouse-continuation, 
a direct line of nearly a mile in length. It is eligible as 
an airy and lively situation ; and we have only to regret, 
that the circumstances of the case should not have 
warranted the erection of continuous and correspondent 
ranges of loftier houses on each side. The site afforded 
every opportunity for a magnificent street : but the 
poetical imaginings of an architect are more rife than the 
means for building large-houses, or for paying the rent 
necessary to live in them. 



PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 

Of these, by far the most imposing, is the noble pile 
which includes the 

Royal Hotel, Assembly Rooms, 
and Theatre. 

The foundation was laid on the 10th September, 1811, 

and the expense of its erection (amounting to £60,000) 

a 8 



16 PLYMOUTH. 

defrayed partly by the institution of a tontine, and partly 
from the Corporation funds. The name of Edmund 
Lockyer, Esq. the Mayor, is recorded on the foundation 
stone, with that of Mr. Foulston, the Architect. 

The entrance to the Hotel is under the tetrastyle 
portico, near one end of the east front, a similar and 
corresponding portico having been designed for the 
other. The grand octastyle, in the centre of the principle 
(or north) front, leads to the boxes of the Theatre and 
the Assembly Rooms. These stately appendages are 
of that chastest order, the Ilissus Ionic, though unfor- 
tunately not of a material so lasting or beautiful as the 
white marble of Pentelicus. The north front extends 
270 feet in length, of which the central portico occupies 
70 feet, its columns being 30 feet high. The interior 
quadrangle is completed by two ranges of coach and 
stable buildings facing the south and west, and the 
whole occupies an area of nearly an acre. 

The Assembly Rooms are approachable either from 
the Hotel or north portico. The Tea Room is spacious 
and simple, but the Ball Room above is an apartment 
of startling magnificence — at least as to design. The 
Corinthian beauties of Lysicrates are here exhibited on 
an imposing scale ; nor will the spectator fail to notice 
the great central and four surrounding chandeliers, the 
splendour of which may possibly be enhanced by the 
knowledge of their having cost one thousand pounds. — 
This noble apartment is nearly eighty feet long, forty in 
width, and nearly thirty feet high. On the opposite side 
of the staircase Lobby, are commodious Card Rooms, &c. 
The public Assemblies take place every alternate, or (as 
of late) every third Wednesday during the winter 
months — they are invariably supported by distinguished 
patronage, and owe much of their attractiveness to the 
zeal and attention of Mr. Whiddon, conductor of the 
Hotel. 

The Theatre is constructed, (as all such buildings ought 
to be) with not less regard to the safety than the 
accommodation of an audience. The roof and entire 



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ATHENAEUM 



stranger's guide. 17 

frame-work of the boxes are of iron ; and the auditory, 
(comprising a pit, two entire circles of boxes, a gallery, 
and slips) is of a magnitude fully equal to the purposes 
of the " legitimate drama, v — not meaning to exclude the 
"pomp and circumstance " that is sometimes attendant 
on it. The most conclusive way, perhaps, of describing 
the capacity of this Theatre, is simply to state, that, at 
the prices of 45. dress circle, 3s. upper ditto, 2s. pit, and 
Is. gallery, a receipt of £150 has been acknowledged 
by the manager. Mr. R. Brunton, who had conducted 
the Plymouth drama for some years, was some time back 
succeeded by the late and much lamented Mr. Sandford, 
a man of singular moral worth, and a zealous labourer 
in too neglected a cause. The Theatre and Hotel are 
held under lease granted by the Mayor and Commonalty. 
A plan and elevation of the building are adjoined. 

The Plymouth Institution, originated in 1812, was, 
by its success enabled, in 1818, to commence the 
erection of the 

Athenaeum, 

the foundation stone of which was laid on the 1st of 
May in that year, by Henry Woollcombe, Esq. The 
works arose under the tasteful and gratuitous superinten- 
dence of Mr. Foulston, and on the 4th of February, 
1819, the Rev. Robert Lampen opened the new building 
with a discourse worthy of the occasion and of himself.* 

The portico exhibits four columns of that order most 
appropriate to the character of a building devoted to 
Literature and Art. It is prostyle in plan, strongly re- 
sembling (though an improvement on) the Doric Portico 
at Athens, which affords a precedent for the great com- 
parative width of the centre inter-columniation. It is 
36 feet in length, and measures 37 feet 6 inches from 
the ground to the apex of the pediment. 

The entrance hall receives a classic character from its 

* See Transactions of the Plymouth Institution. 
a 9 



18 PLYMOUTH. 

Doric columns and antse ; and it is further graced by 
the lovely presence of the Venus de Medicis, the figure 
of a faun, and the athletic form of the fighting gladiator. 
Above the hall is the committee-room, or library. 

The great hall or lecture room, measuring 36 feet by 
30 feet, is fitted with sittings for about 150 individuals. 
The president's chair is surmounted by a bust of 
Minerva. The more remarkable decorations of the room 
are casts from the Apollo Belvidere, the Antinous, the 
river god Ilissus, the Theseus, and plaster fac-similes of 
the procession and sculptures in the Metopes of the 
Parthenon. Behind the lecturer's table, is a door, 
leading to the laboratory, offices, and to the museum 
above. The latter, by means of purchase and donation, is 
constantly increasing, and already contains an interesting 
collection of minerals, fossils, birds, insects, shell fish, 
savage accoutrements, and miscellaneous curiosities. 

A plan and elevation of the building are annexed. 

The affairs of the Institution are under the manage- 
ment of a president and three vice-presidents, a trea- 
surer, secretary, and four curators. The body of the 
Society is formed by members, who undertake to lecture, 
(and have therefore peculiar privileges,) associates, who 
form the greater numerical portion, and young gentlemen 
not exceeding the age of 20, admitted under the 
nomination of a member- The first subscribe 1 \ guineas, 
the second 2, and the third class 1 guinea per annum ; 
the lecturing members alone having access to the 
library, or a voice in the management. All, however, 
are allowed to take part in the discussion which follows 
each lecture, and to join in which strangers are also 
invited. By the latter is understood, persons not residing 
within five miles of Plymouth, who are admitted by appli- 
cation to the members. The session always commences 
with October, and continues through the five following 
months, during which a lecture is given every Thursday 
evening, occupying from 7 to 8 o'clock, the two sub- 
sequent hours being employed in discussing the argu- 
ments advanced. At the close of the season a general 



stranger's guide. 19 

summary of the proceedings is printed ; and it is the 
intention of the society, from time to time, to publish 
some of their more important transactions, a handsome 
octavo volume of which has already appeared, and may 
be obtained at the Institution. 

Every two or three years, during about six weeks 
of the recess, the Hall and Museum are employed as 
exhibition rooms, the former for oil paintings, the latter for 
water coloured drawings. Single admission Is. catalogue 
6d. season ticket (not transferable) 3s. The latter admits 
the bearer to the conversaziones of each Thursday 
evening during the exhibition season, when the Hall and 
Museum are lighted up with lamps and loveliness, and 
harmony insured by the presence of a choice band of 
music. The proceeds, after contributing to liquidate 
the expenses incurred, enrich the treasury of the Institu- 
tion. August is the month of exhibition. 

St. Andrew's Chapel, 

opposite the S.E. part of the Royal Hotel, merits the 
visitor's notice, as exhibiting a front of granite, and an 
interior of the chastest Anglo-Greek taste. The pulpit, 
gallery-fronts, altar, and candelabra-columns, claim 
particular attention. A good organ at the west end, 
confronts a large picture of the Crucifixion by the late 
Mr. Ball, a native artist, of much feeling for the loftier 
efforts of painting. The Chapel was built in 1823, from 
designs by Mr. Foulston, and at the joint expense of the 
Rev. Robert Lampen, H. Woollcombe, J. Pridham, 
and T. Gill, Esquires. It was erected at the cost of 
£5000, and affords sittings for 1050 persons, of which 
160 are free. An adjoining house has been lately 
purchased for the residence of the minister. 

Tho Public library, 

in Cornwall Street, will next claim the visitor's attention. 
This establishment, in concert with the Athenaeum, 



20 PLYMOUTH. 

attests the intellectual character of, at least, a fair 
proportion of the town. It originated chiefly in the 
literary zeal of the late George Eastlake, Esq. The 
foundation was laid in 1811, and the building duly 
completed under the tasteful supervision of Mr. Foulston. 
The classic spectator will observe, that the central com- 
partment of the exterior is a judicious variation from the 
Choragic monument of Thrasyllus, the latter having 
only a single pilaster, at each extremity, and a central 
anta. On each side of the Lobby are spacious apart- 
ments, the one a News-room, the other for the 
committee of management, the members of which are 
annually elected in January, and comprise a president, 
vice-president, treasurer, secretary, registrar, and sixteen 
other shareholders. The Library is a carefully studied 
specimen of internal architecture, and exhibits a pleasing- 
example of the pendentive ceiling, springing from pro- 
jecting abutments, pierced with a large circular light, 
and crowned with a columniated lantern. The clear 
space, from side to side (the room being square) is 33 
feet ; and the height to the ceiling of the lantern 30 feet. 
The shares, originally valued at 30 guineas each, are 
204 in number. An annual subscription of 2 guineas is 
contributed, for the general purposes of the Institution, 
by every proprietor, who, if he hold more than one, 
may nominate on every such additional share, a visitor, 
the latter paying 2 guineas annually. Each proprietor 
may also introduce one stranger ; and, if he be Mayor 
of Plymouth, he is at liberty, together with the president, 
to introduce any number of strangers, under certain 
restrictions. Ladies and Gentlemen are also admitted 
by ballot as annual subscribers either to the library 
alone, or to the library and news-room. 

At the east end of Cornwall Street, near one of the 
Market Gates, is a neat building, comprising, on the 
upper story, the Freemasons' Hall, (47ft. 6ins. by 28ft. 
6ins.) with adjoining conveniences ; and, on the lower 
story, the " Plymouth, Devonport, and Stonehouse, 
Commercial Rooms." The building was erected from 



stranger's guide. 21 

plans by Mr. Adams, the town-surveyor, at a cost of 
£2,500; and, in April, 1828, it was formally dedicated 
to the order of the Lodge of Fortitude, by Lord Ebrington. 
The Commercial Rooms were applied to their present 
useful purpose in 1832, and are supported by very 
numerous subscribers, who have thus a cheap access to 
all the leading London and Provincial papers with 
certain select Periodicals. 

The annual subscription is 1 guinea for each member, 
except in the case of firms, when 1 guinea and a-half is 
paid for two partners, 2 guineas for three, and in like 
proportion for every additional member of such firms. 

Strangers, not resident within fifteen miles, may be 
admitted into the rooms by the personal introduction of a 
subscriber, who enters in a book kept for that purpose, 
their names and places of abode, which entitle them to 
have access to the rooms for seven days, after which time 
the entry may be once renewed ; but this privilege is 
not available to the same individual oftener than once in 
every three months. 

The rooms are open daily (Sundays excepted, on 
which day they are open only from eight to ten in the 
evening) from seven in the morning until ten at night ; 
but on Saturdays they remain open until eleven o'clock 
at night. 

To the Market Place we have before alluded ; but we 
may here state, in reference to this, as well as to other 
important features of the town, (particularly the Royal 
Hotel and the Athenaeum,) that very much is due to the 
exertions and aid of Edmund Lockyer, Esq. 

The stranger will next desire to visit 

St. Andrew's Church, 

which may suffer somewhat, in his experienced judgment, 
from the "too fair report " of local criticism. He will 
observe, that, though handsome in parts, the exterior 
lacks that most distinguishing of Gothic essentials, 
altitude; i. e. as regards the body of the Church. The 



22 PLYMOUTH. 

tower (containing a fine peal of eight bells) may be 
admitted as of good general proportions, and as crowned 
by a pinnacled compartment of remarkable beauty : it 
is said to have been built in 1440, at the expense of 
Mr. Yogge, a Plymouth Merchant. The Church is of 
the later pointed style, at least as regards the windows. 
In other portions we have other dates. Mention is 
made of this Church in a survey ordered by Pope 
Nicholas, in 1291. The Organ (an instrument of con- 
siderable power) was built 1737; and the altar-piece, 
presented by a Mrs. Ilbert in 1742, is rather an evidence 
to her liberality than to the judicious taste of its 
Palladian designer. The present imposing aspect of the 
interior is chiefly owing to the improvements effected in 
1826, under Mr. Foulston's superintendence, and at an 
expense of nearly £5000. The oak pulpit, stalls, &c. 
galleries, and staircase of teak in the tower base, the 
porches without, and the granite imitation within, are 
the principal features of the new work. 

The monument to Dr. Woollcombe, with its group 
representing "the Genius of Medicine supporting Indi- 
gence/' is by Westmacott. The epitaph was revised by 
Canning. The late reverend vicar, John Gandy, is 
commemorated by a female figure resting on a medallion 
bust. A former vicar of this church, the Rev. T. Mudge, 
may be said still to live in one of Chantrey's finest busts. 
This exquisite specimen of sculpture was executed from 
a picture by Reynolds, and consigned to its most fitting 
situation in this church by R. Rosdew, Esq. whose wife 
(daughter of Dr. Mudge,) is here also commemorated. 
Here are, likewise, monuments to Dr. A. Wilson and 
J. Gilbert, (former vicars of St. Andrew's,) Sir J. 
Skelton, a loyal adherent to Charles 2nd, and governor 
of the Plymouth Citadel ; Dr. James Yonge, physician ; 
Mr. Samuel Northcote, father of the celebrated artist; 
Captain Lechmere ; Mrs. Lockyer, &c. &c. 

The right of presentation (belonging to the Corpora- 
tion) was purchased by Mr. Hatchard, the well-known 
publisher, and presented to his son, the present vicar, 



stranger's guide. 23 

who is aided in the very arduous duties of his large and 
populous parish, by the Rev. J. H. C. Borwell, M.A. 
the lecturer, appointed by the Mayor and Commonalty, 
who afford him a salary of £20 per annum ; and also £ 10 
per annum to the organist. The vicar is further assisted 
by a curate. St. Andrew's Church is furnished with 
sittings for 2500 persons, thus distributed : 1 500 in pews, 
500 free seats for adults, and 500 free seats for children. 
Besides the church yard, there is a burying ground a 
little to the north of Princess Square. 

Passing from St. Andrew's Church along Whimple 
Street, we stumble, as it were, upon the 

Guildhall, 

of which, as it may not (we hope) long exist, little need 
here be said. It is strangely irregular in plan, crowded 
and inconvenient in disposition, and wholly indescribable 
as to style, unless, indeed, we term it " Gothic " in the 
truest sense of the word. It comprises, besides the hall, 
(a room 53ft. by 21ft. lately refitted) the several offices 
necessary to the transaction of the corporation affairs, 
the town prisons, watch house, and apartments for the 
town sergeants. The most singular fact to be observed 
upon in this unique edifice, is simply this ; viz. that its 
date of erection should be so late as 1800 ! 

Descending Buckwell Street, (from which Howe 
Street leads to the Baptist Chapel) and proceeding across 
the bottom of Treville Street, a narrow avenue leads to 
the Church of Charles' Parish, which w T as separated 
from that of St. Andrew in the reign of Charles I. to 
whose memory (as a martyr) the church was erected. 
It may here be mentioned that, in crossing Treville 
Street, the Friends' Meeting House (a plain red brick 
building) is seen on the right. On the left of the narrow 
street leading to Charles' Church, are the Unitarian and 
Independent Chapels, the latter unfinished exteriorly ; 
but lately much enlarged, and furnished with a double 
range of galleries and new pulpit, from designs by the 
Author of this work. The tower and spire of 



24 PLYMOUTH. 

Charles' Church, 

have an agreeable outline ; but otherwise the exterior of 
the building can only be described as in the debased 
Gothic style of a degenerate period. It was commenced 
1 646, but not finished until 1 658. The Saracenic portico 
on the south may win a salam from the Mahomedan, 
but will be deemed most inappropriate by the Christian 
critic. The interior makes an impression of a far more 
agreeable character upon the spectator, who will duly 
accredit the manner in which Mr. Ball has refurnished 
the church with pulpit, pewing, galleries, and a light 
Gothic skreen at the western end. The coup d'ail is 
pleasing in the extreme. These improvements were 
executed in 1828-29, at an expense of about £2400. 
The church affords sitting room for 1716 persons, dis- 
tributed as follows : — 1096 in Pews, 420 free seats for 
adults, and 200 Charity Children. 

Among the many monuments, that of the Rev. R. 
Hawker, D.D. exhibiting a finely sculptured Bust by 
Lege" will claim most particular attention. On the 
opposite side of the Chancel is a handsomely sculptured 
tablet in commemoration of the late vicar, the Rev. James 
Came, D.D. and his Wife, both of^whom were taken off, 
within four days of each other, by malignant cholera, at 
the time when that awful pestilence so generally prevailed 
in 1832. 

To the church yard, an additional cemetery has been 
lately added close by. The vicar is presented by the 
Corporation. Like St. Andrew's, Charles' Parish has also 
its assistant Chapel, which the visitor will find at some 
distance N.W. of the church. It was first opened for 
divine service on the 1st of July, 1829, and contains 
sittings for near 1200 persons, of which about 200 are 
free to the poor. The designer was Mr. Ball. Cost of 
erection, £3914. 155. 6d. defrayed by donations, sale of 
pews, and loans from the Rev. S. Courtenay and 
Miss Courtenav. 



STRANGERS GUIDE. 25 

At the north-western extremity of the Plymouth boun- 
dary, conspicuous from its elevated site and two cone- 
topped turrets, is Eldad Chapel, a large stone edifice of 
mixed pointed architecture, erected from Mr. Ball's 
designs, at an expense of £4903. lis. 4d. exclusive of 
the organ and road-making. To meet this charge, the 
subscriptions and donations amounted to £3267; the 
remainder was effected by loan. The chapel contains 
1500 sittings, of which 200 are free. 

Near the northern extremity of Old Town Street is 
the Ebenezer Methodist Chapel, erected in 1816, at an 
expense of about £5000, and affording accommodation 
for 1500 persons. Its situation in a well planted 
cemetery, the simple but handsome aspect which cha- 
racterise it within and without, its wrought stone front, 
and generally substantial appearance, entitle it to 
particular mention. Under the vestry is a vault for the 
interment of the Wesleyan itinerant ministers of the 
Plymouth and Devonport circuits. 

In Batter Street, near the Guildhall, is a Presbyterian 
Chapel and burial ground. This Chapel is endowed, 
and has a School attached. 

The Baptist Chapel, to which allusion has been 
already made, has been lately enlarged. Other dissenting 
Chapels are to be found in various parts of the town : 
nor should we omit to mention the Episcopalian Chapel 
in the Citadel, and the "Mariner's Church" near the 
Barbican, more particularly noticed in the supplementary 
• account of Plymouth. 

The Custom House 

was erected from designs by Mr. Laing, the unfortunate 
architect of the Custom House, at London — or rather the 
architect of the unfortunate Custom House — for it is not 
a feeling of mere humanity, which should prompt us to 
speak in alleviation of the mental distress Mr. Laing 
must have endured on the failure of his building. His 
folio work will still do him credit as regards not only 



26 PLYMOUTH. 

the architecture and arrangement of his design, but also 
in respect to the constructive science displayed. The 
more humble specimen of his talent, to which we now 
more particularly allude, is yet worthy of the town. Jt 
is situate on the Quay of Sutton Pool, and exhibits a 
front of granite, suitable, solid, and well proportioned. 

The interior is well arranged for business; on the 
ground floor are the offices of the principal surveyor, 
tide-surveyor, landing- waiter, searcher, &c. A granite 
staircase leads to the long-room, a commodious and 
spacious apartment for the dispatch of general business, 
adjoining which are the collector and comptroller's 
offices. 

The long-room is in length 52ft. 4ins. by 26 feet wide, 
and about 22 high. The building was opened in 1820, 
having been erected and fitted up at a cost of about 
£8000. 

We have already described a greater number of 
Buildings than the visitor will care to inspect ; nor can 
it be said that any of those hereafter to be mentioned 
have other claims to notice, beyond the importance of 
their purposes, excepting the 

Royal Baths, 

which the visitor, in proceeding along Union Street 
towards Stonehouse, will observe receding on his left, 
exhibiting a centre of two Doric columns in antis, and 
certainly proclaiming itself the chief feature of this great 
thoroughfare. It was erected at the expense of a Joint 
Stock Company, incorporated by Royal Charter, dated 
1 3th November, 1 828. The front portion of the building 
includes a Subscription News Room, and a Pump Room, 
where the newly discovered Spa waters are supplied.* 

* These waters are obtained from a rock at a depth of 
more than 360 feet, and their medical effects have been highly 
approved. They have been analysed by Professors Faraday 
and Daniel. Specific gravity at 62 degs. 1013,3. In the Pint 
Imperial Measure are contained 



stranger's guide. 27 

The apartments above are rented to respectable day 
occupants. In the rear range of the building are two 
swimming salt water baths, 60 feet long and between 20 
and 30 feet broad ; eight warm baths either fresh or salt ; 
two sulphur or hot air baths ; Harrowgate ditto ; two 
vapour baths ; two douche ditto ; three cold plunge 
baths ; and shower baths. A reference to the printed 
card of the establishment will shew at what a moderate 
charge its luxuries are afforded ; and the attention of 
the conductors will certainly merit the visitor's notice. 
The baths are heated by steam, and supplied by a 
reservoir containing near 3000 hogsheads. This reservoir 
is connected with the Sound by cast iron pipes of nine 
inches diameter, extending in a circuitous line of from 
4000 to 5000 feet, and through which a supply of fresh 
salt water is afforded daily. The water after use is 
conveyed through a tunnel into Mill Bay. The Baths 
are open from 6 in the morning until 10 at night in the 
summer, and from 7 till 10 in the winter. 

Near the Baths, a building is in progress to inclose 
the Spa Well, and subsequently to include a more 
spacious Pump Room than the one now in use. 



Carbonic acid gas 8-100 cubic inches, and 151,66 grains 
of dry salts, consisting of 

Grains. 

Chloride of Sodium 96,64 

Muriate of Magnesia 18,68 

Muriate of Lime 15,10 

Sulphate of Soda. 9,55 

Sulphate of Lime 8,94 

Carbonate of Lime 2,06 

Carbonate of Iron 0,69 

151,66 



27(a) 



The South Devon and East Cornwall Hospital 
and Plymouth Public Dispensary, 

(Near Sussex Place,) 

The remarks upon this Institution, in page 38, were 
printed before the commencement of the building, 
which is now CMay, 1836,) proceeding rapidly towards 
completion — at least as it regards the central part of the 
design, which is formed to admit the addition of wings 
hereafter. 

The portion, now erecting, includes an entrance hall 
and waiting-room, with a dispensary and a committee- 
room (the latter also for the use of the physicians); 
surgeons' room ; a ward on the ground floor ; a theatre 
for operations and lectures ; offices and rooms for the 
matron and porter in the basement; wards for forty 
beds in the two upper floors, on each of which is a 
nurse's room, bath room and other conveniences, and a 
spacious staircase with flights of stone steps and land- 
ings from the basement to the top floor. A portico for 
carriages is attached to the centre of the north front, 
which exhibits, perhaps, as much architectural decoration 
as the purpose of the building admits, and certainly as 
much as the funds, at this early period of the Institution, 
allow. 

The contemplated wings would double the capacity 
of the building as to beds, and supply many other 
conveniences. 

The contractors for the work are Messrs. Chown, 
Burgoyne, and Marshall. The ceremony of laying the 
foundation stone was preceded by a morning service at 
St. Andrew's Church, and an appropriate sermon by 
the Rev. S. Itowe. On a brass plate, embedded in the 



27 (b) STRANGEll's GUIDE. 

footing of the N.E. corner of the building, is the follow- 
ing inscription : — 

THE FOUNDATION STONE 
OF THE 

SOUTH DEVON AND EAST CORNWALL HOSPITAL 

AND 

PLYMOUTH PUBLIC DISPENSARY 

WAS LAID ON THE 6th DAY OF AUGUST, 1835, 
BY 

THE REV. JOHN HATCHARD, M.A. 

AT THE REQUEST AND IN THE PRESENCE OF THE 

COMMITTEE AND SUBSCRIBERS 

IN GRATEFUL ACKNOWLEDGMENT OF THE DIVINE FAVOril 
THROUGH WHICH THEY HAVE BEEN ENABLED TO BEGIN 

THE BUILDING 

AND IN HUMBLE RELIANCE UPON THE BLESSING OF GOD ON 

THEIR ENDEAVOURS TO CARRY THE CHARITABLE OBJECTS OF 

THE INSTITUTION, THUS COMMENCED, INTO FULL EFFECT. 

GEORGE WIGHTWICK, Architect. 



St. Andrew's Church. 

In particularizing certain monuments in page 22, we 
should have added, had the event then taken place, the 
tomb stone of the celebrated comedian, Charles Mathews, 
who, after two months of the most acute suffering, 
died at a lodging-house in Lockyer Street, and was 
buried in the western vestibule of St. Andrew's Church, 
where a simple slab bears the following inscription : — 

CHARLES MATHEWS, Comedian, 
Born 28th June 1776 : died 28th June 1835. 

Many are the visitors who will be interested m the 
knowledge of this fact, and who will echo, with sincerity 
of feeling, as they look upon this record of the lost 
comic master spirit — 

" Alas ! poor Yorick ! " 



28 



IMPROVEMENTS. 

During the progress of this work through the press 
new lines of houses have begun to arise in several 
quarters ; and many other improvements are in prospect. 
Among these are a new Guildhall and Prisons, with a 
building for Horticultural and other purposes of public 
exhibition. The new buildings in Lockyer Street will 
greatly improve the approach to the Hoe ; nor can we 
too much applaud the spirit of our leading builders, who, 
under the supervision of professional aid, are constantly 
advancing the architectural pretensions of the town 
generally. 



20 



NOTICE. 

The New Corporation Act, passed after the major part 
of this work was printed, of course renders inaccurate 
(except as a piece of by-gone history) the municipal 
statements in pages 29 and 30. 

Plymouth is now governed by a Mayor ; twelve 
Aldermen ; thirty-six Common Councilmen ; Recorder ; 
Town Clerk, &c. The first election under the new Act, 
in December 1835, placed Thomas Gill, Esq. in the 
Mayor's seat, and C. C. Whiteford, Esq. in the Town 
Clerkship, the latter gentleman having for some time 
zealously acted as deputy in that situation. The Borough 
is divided into six wards, viz. — St. Andrew's, Drake's, 
Vintry, Sutton, Frankfort, and Charles. The Magis- 
trates now first appointed are as follow : — Thomas Gill. 
Esq. Mayor ; J. Collier and T. Bewes, Esqrs. Members 
for the Borough ; G. W. Soltau, Esq. G. Coryndon, Esq. 
W. Prance, Esq. and J. King, Esq. 

4th February, 1836* 



SUPPLEMENTAL SUMMARY OF GENERAL 
INFORMATION. 



Plymouth is in the hundred of Roborough, its component 
parishes of St. Andrew's and Charles' being in the deanery of 
Plympton, archdeaconry of Totnes, and diocese of Exeter. 
The perpetual curacy of St. Budeaux is annexed to the vicarage 
o: St. Andrew's. The vicar's income arises from the small 
tythes of the parish and the tything of Pennycross, compounded 
for by payment of two shillings in the pound on the rack rent ; 
from house property ; and from fees for parochial duties. The 
A icar of Charles' derives his income from the small tythes of 
Compton Gifford, compounded for by payment of two shillings 
in the pound on the rack rent ; and from fees for parochial 
duties. Service is performed in St. Andrew's Church every 
Wednesday and Friday ; the morning service commencing at 
half-past ten, and the afternoon ditto at three. On Sunday 
there are three services, viz. at half-past ten ; at three ; and at 
half-past six. A sermon is preached after the morning service 
of Wednesday ; and on all Saint's days and certain fast days 
a sermon is delivered. Service is performed in Charles' Church 
thrice on Sunday, viz. at half-past ten ; at three ; and at half-past 
six : also every Wednesday and Friday, at three in the after- 
noon. The annual visitation of the archdeacon is held in 
St. Andrew's, where the ceremony of confirmation is also 
performed. 

The Borough was incorporated under the title of Plymouth 
in 1439 • and by successive charters, its government has been 
vested in a mayor, twelve aldermen, twenty-four common 
councilmen, a recorder, town clerk, chamberlain, coroner, 
three sergeants at mace, and a town corporal. The mayor is 
annually elected by the freemen on the 17th, and sworn on 
the 29th of September. The late mayor, the recorder, and 
two senior aldermen are also, with the mayor, justices of the 
peace within the borough. The magistrates hold quarter-ses- 
sion after the festivals of Lady-day, Midsummer, Michaelmas, 
and Christmas, for all offences not capital. A court of record 
for the recovery of debts to an unlimited amount is held every 
Monday, and the Mayor sits every Monday and Thursday at 
the Guildhall, to determine minor offences. The peace of the 
town is secured by an efficient day and night police, the 
members of which have a regular uniform, as in the metropolis. 



30 PLYMOUTH. 

The direction of the paving, watching, and lighting is vested 
(by an act, passed 12th of April, 1824) in a body of com- 
missioners. The borough exerted the elective franchise in the 
26th and 33rd of Edw. I. and in the 4th and 7th of Edw. II. 
after which it omitted to send representatives to parliament till 
the 20th of Henry IV. Since then it has regularly returned two 
members. By the act of 2nd of William IV. which extended 
the elective franchise to the £10 householders, the number of 
voters amounts to 1500. Thomas Bewes, and John Collier, 
Esqrs. (who still represent the borough) were the first members 
returned under the reform act. The mayor is returning officer. 
Plymouth is a polling place for the southern division of the 
county. 

Plymouth is supplied with water by a rivulet or leat, which 
conducts from a source on Dartmoor, twenty-four miles distant, 
into a reservoir north of the town, from which main pipes 
extend through every inhabited quarter. This good work was 
effected pursuant to act of 27th of Elizabeth, by Sir Francis 
Drake ; and a contest has been for some time actively carried on 
between John Collier, Esq. M.P. and the Corporation, as to the 
right of the latter in the property of the water. To comment on 
the merits of the arguments advanced by the opposing parties 
were a liberty not to be taken by the humble author of this humble 
book, who cannot, however, help remarking that they have 
involved a decided case of " spirits and water " occasionally 
conducive to moral inebriety. Be it as it may, the water has 
long been under the conduct of " the mayor and commonalty 
of the borough of Plymouth," who lay down and keep in repair 
the main pipes* the branch pipes being grafted thereto at the 
expense of the housekeepers desiring them. 

The annual payment by each house supplied is 16s. and the 
corporation derive further income from certain mills and 
manufactories that are worked by the leat. The Market is also 
a source of considerable means to the corporation. Market 
days, Monday , Thursday, and Saturday. Annual fairs in April 
and November. 

A considerable timber trade is carried on with America, the 
Baltic, and Mediterranean ; and an immediate intercourse with 
the Mauritius and the West Indies insures a regular supply of 
imports on the most advantageous terms. Plymouth is a ware- 
housing Port for all articles in tables A, B, C, D, and E, of 
the warehousing act ; and is one of the Ports privileged for 
the importation and warehousing of tobacco. Here are also 
vast importations cf timber, hemp, and tallow, for the supply 
of the Royal Dock Yard. The coasting trade is chiefly with 
London, Newcastle, Newport (Wales), and Bristol. Great 
quantities of manganese are shipped to Scotland, lead to 



SUPPLEMENT. 31 

Bristol and London, and wool to Hull. Besides many 
chartered vessels, there are numerous others (of from 60 to 500 
tons) belonging to Plymouth, employed in foreign trade. To 
the entire port it may be said that 350 merchantmen belong, 
whose combined burden amounts to 30,000 tons. Upwards of 
50 decked boats, called Trawlers, supply the markets with fish 
of all kinds, whiting, pilchards and hake more particularly 
abounding. Large quantities of fish are exported to London, 
Bath, &e. The harbours of Plymouth are Sutton Pool and 
Catwater. The latter is almost surrounded by the lower part 
of the town, and is entered between two piers of solid masonry, 
erected by means of parliamentary grant in 1791 and 1799. 
Sutton Pool harbour, with certain of the quays and dwelling- 
houses, belongs to the Duchy of Cornwall, under which " the 
Sutton Pool Company, '' established by act of parliament in 
1811, are lessees. This company also hold leases of other 
quays, &c. under the corporation of the borough, and are 
constantly effecting great improvements in the harbour. In 
addition to the old tolls of the Duchy, they have been granted 
certain others, for which they are bound to support a harbour 
master, to keep the channels clear of mud, to build new quays, 
to lay down mooring chains, &c. 

At the western pier of the Barbican a great number of 
watermen ply for hire in their boats, but as they are not under 
particular regulations, persons employing them make the best 
bargains they can. The carts, horse-porters, and foot-porters, 
that are constantly in attendance on the different quays for 
hire, are, however, licensed and registered at the town-clerk's 
office, numbered, and placed under such strict rules and 
regulations, that in case of misconduct they are deprived of the 
privilege of attending the quays, on a proper representation 
being made to the magistrates at the Guildhall. 

There are several shipwrights' yards, for building and 
repairing, within this harbour ; the quays are provided with 
cranes, &c. and vessels supplied with town-water at the 
Barbican steps. 

Catwater, lying south-east of Sutton Pool, forms a capacious 
harbour, capable of receiving a thousand sail. The larger class 
of merchantmen, and the steam packets are moored here. 
From its quays vast quantities of lime stone, raised in the 
adjacent quarries of Catdown, Oreston, &c. are being con- 
stantly shipped. Here are also several shipwrights' yards. 
With respect to the property of this harbour, and the several 
persons who have jurisdiction over it, there is some difficulty 
in giving an accurate account, as many disputes have arisen 
on the subject, and it does not even now seem to be clearly 
defined ; but the following is believed to be a correct statement : 



32 PLYMOUTH. 

The mayor and commonalty of Plymouth, in the annual 
visitation of their bounds, direct the charity boys to embark from 
Catdown, at a place called the Bear's Head, and to row from 
thence in a line to the pier, called the Fisher's Nose ; it is 
understood, therefore, that the part thus included is so far 
within the jurisdiction of Plymouth, as to claim cognizance of 
offences committed there, and for the coroner of the borough 
to make inquiry into the cause of the death of persons in that 
part of the harbour. The mayor of Saltash possesses a right of 
collecting one shilling from all English vessels coming into it, 
two shillings from all foreign ships ; and claims likewise the 
privilege of his coroner having jurisdiction in a part of the 
harbour : it is supposed the lord of the manor of Plympton also 
has a right of taking oysters and fishing in the higher part. 

Plymouth was, in 1834, constituted a stannary town. The 
neighbouring tin and other mines are numerous and productive. 
The vicinity also abounds in quarries of granite, slate, and 
marble, the latter being highly esteemed for its veining and 
susceptibility of polish. The export of granite, &e. is greatly 
facilitated by the rail road, which extends a length of 24 miles 
from the interior of Dartmoor to the quays of Catwater and 
Sutton Pool harbours. By the same means coal, lime, and 
manure are carried from the port into the interior. This 
important, undertaking was mainly effected through the spirited 
exertions of the late Sir Thomas Tyrwhitt, in 1818-20, when a 
company was formed, and a loan of £18,000 procured from 
government. 

Near the Custom House (already described in page 25, 
Stranger's Guide) is the Exchange, erected in 1813, by 
means of £25 shares, the property being held on lease for 999 
years. Its affairs are managed by an annually elected com- 
mittee, having a chairman, deputy ditto, treasurer, secretary, 
and accountant. The building includes a Chamber of Com- 
merce, Marine Insurance Office, Steam Packet Office, 
Shipping Insurance Office, Reading Room, &c. 

The Chamber of Commerce, formed in 1813 to promote 
the commercial interests of Plymouth, is directed by a 
committee annually elected by ballot. The Earl of Morley, 
who has been repeatedly elected chairman, has greatly con- 
tributed to the successof the chamber. The Marine Insurance 
Office is open daily from ten to four. < During the first nine 
months of its formation in 1813, marine property, to the 
amount of near £373,000, was insured ; and the punctually 
regular and honourable conduct of the managing committee 
has been recorded as constituting the strongest hold on public 
confidence. The Oil Gas Company have also their office in 
the Exchange ; the works are in Exeter Street. The Plymouth, 



SUPPLEMENT. 33 

Devonport, Portsmouth, and Falmouth Steam Packet 
Company was formed in 1822, through the exertions of 
J. N. Hawker, Esq. All information connected with the 
water communication between Plymouth, Portsmouth, Pal- 
mouth, Guernsey, &c. may be obtained between ten and four 
at the Exchange. Near the latter is another Steam Packet 
Office where inquiries concerning water communication with 
London direct, or with Dublin and Belfast, will be answered. 

The Excise Office is in Notte Street — Tide-Surveyor's 
Office and watch-house in Lower Street. (See Appendix.) 

The Post Office (under the admirable conduct of 
Mr. Markes) is in Bilbury Street. 

mails. arrive. depart. 

Cornwall and North Devon, ? ~ ..- ~ 

via Callington J 6 * 45 ' AM * 7 * P ' M ' 

London 7. 15. p.m. 7. a.m. 

Cornwall, via Torpoint 7. p.m. 6. a.m. 

Bath and Bristol 10. p.m. 5. p.m. 

Penny-post messengers are despatched to the following places 
at 7. a.m. daily : — Knockersknowle, Jump, Saltash, and 
Oreston : also, twice a day, to Stonehouse ; and to Devonport 
at 6. a.m. — 3. p.m. and 7. 15. p.m. Receiving Boxes at the 
Office, at the Royal Hotel, and in Drake Street, Old Town. 



CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. 

The Workhouse is situated in a narrow street, leading 
south from the tower of St. Andrew's church. The entrance 
is into a spacious quadrangle, surrounded by buildings which 
constitute the original workhouse ; among these are the room for 
divine service, kitchens, and wards for the paupers. The inner 
division, subsequently added, contains the infirmary, with 
commodious and airy wards for male and female patients, the 
dispensary, the Hele and Lanyon charity school, bridewell, 
baths, &c. 

A new building has been lately added to the south of the 
first quadrangle, including a spacious council-chamber, clerk's 
office, committee-room, waiting-room for applicants, who have 
an entrance from the street, apart from that which leads to the 
workhouse. This and several other improvements have been 
effected during the active governorship of Capt. Dolling, R N. 

This establishment is supported by virtue of four acts of 
parliament ; the first of which was passed in 1708, and the 
subsequent ones in 1754, 1786, and 1813. The former act 



34 PLYMOUTH. 

directs, that a body shall be incorporated by the style and 
title of the Governor and Guardians of the Poor's Portion in 
Plymouth, to consist of fifty -two guardians, out of whom shall 
be elected a governor, deputy -governor, treasurer, receiver, 
and ten assistants to the governor. Of these guardians the 
mayor and recorder of the borough for the time being are 
always two ; the remainder are elected, six from the body of 
aldermen, and six from the common-council, twenty inhabitants 
of the parish of St. Andrew, and eighteen inhabitants of the 
parish of Charles. The election takes place on the second 
Tuesday in May. Every person who pays at the rate of sixpence 
per month towards the maintenance of the poor is qualified to 
vote for the persons proposed to be elected. 

When the members of this corporation are elected, they 
assemble on the same day at the Guildhall, before the mayor 
and two aldermen, and proceed to the election, (by ballot) of 
their officers. 

The guardians, who hold sittings every Tuesday and Friday 
in the council-chamber, constitute a court to relieve the 
immediate necessities of applicants, and to transact such other 
business as may come before them. The out-door poor of St. 
Andrew's receive their weekly stipend every Friday, those of 
Charles' every Saturday. All paupers maintained in the house, 
capable of manual labour, are employed in shoernaking, 
spinning, picking oakum, &c. 

The master and mistress of the boys and girls' schools 
belonging to the corporation, receive their salaries from its 
funds ; but the Hele and Lanyon school is a distinct foundation. 
The Hospital of Poor's Portion being incorporated, its internal 
police is not subject to the direction of a magistrate ; the 
governor, as chief officer, possesses the power of committing 
offenders to the bridewell, for a period not exceeding seven 
days. 

The Red Boys' School was established by the will of 
Elizeus Hele, Esq. of Wembury, in 1632. There are generally 
eight boys on this foundation, who are clothed, maintained, 
educated, and afterwards bound as apprentices. The income 
arises from various lands in the parishes of Brixton and 
Yealmpton, 

The Blue Boys' School was founded by Mr. John Lanyon, 
a native of the town, who died at Oporto, and left the sum of 
two thousand pounds, to be applied in charitable purposes ; 
this sum, by what means, or by whose direction is not known, 
was applied towards the maintenance, clothing, and education 
of boys, who have been, in a great measure, incorporated with 
the Hele Charity ; there are usually twelve boys on this 
establishment. These charities are obliged, by the terms of the 



SUPPLEMENT. 35 

deeds for the endowment, to be stationed in the workhouse, 
and their management is vested in trustees. 

Near the south-west angle of the workhouse is the Orphan's 
Aid Hospital, founded by Messrs. Thomas and Nicholas 
Sherwill, in 1625, for the reception of orphan cliildien ; in 
w|iich about twelve boys are clothed, maintained, and educated. 
The funds arise from lands and houses situated in and near the 
town. This charity is now administered by a committee of 
four aldermen, and two of the common-council, one of whom 
superintends, monthly, the care of the boys. The mistress 
provides board for the boys, who are instructed in reading, 
writing, and arithmetic, by a competent master. The accounts 
of this charity have been of late years kept completely distinct 
from those of the corporation, and are in a flourishing state. 

The Corporation Free Grammar School, west of St. 
Andrew's church, was founded in the reign of Kenry VI. 
(when John Brock was appointed master, with ten marks per 
annum and a lodging over the gateway of the monastery : ) 
and, in 1572, Queen Elizabeth granted to the corporation the 
arrears of a rent charged upon the vicarage, on condition that 
they should maintain a lecturer in the parish church with £20 
per annum, and a grammar master with a like sum. Two 
children of poor Freemen are educated on the foundation. 

In St. Andrew's Almshouses twelve widows and a nurse 
reside, and are allowed one shilling and ninepence per week by 
the warden, who is annually elected out of the common- 
council, and has the privilege of appointing persons to fill up 
the vacancies that may occur during his year. Allowances 
of flour and money are periodically made. 

The Workhouse Almshouse is behind the last-mentioned, 
and belongs to the governor and guardians of the poor. By 
this charity nine aged women are provided with a residence and 
a weekly stipend from the rates. The governor for the time 
being appoints the inmates. 

The Grey School, in Hampton Street, was instituted in 
1713, by some of the inhabitants, among whom was Canon 
Gilbert, then vicar of St, Andrew's. It is supported by volun- 
tary subscription, and the income from sums which have been 
left by benefactors. This school affords instruction to 100 boys, 
of whom 40 are clothed ; and to 60 girls, of whom 20 are clothed. 
The master has a salary of £50 per annum, the mistress £25, 
and both have apartments to reside in. Several sums have been 
left for raising monies to apprentice out the boys. 

The Public School is instituted on the new mode of in- 
struction designed by Mr. Lancaster and Dr. Bell, and owes 
its rise and support to the meritorious exertions of its subscri- 
bers. Upwards of 300 boys and girls are instructed in moral 



36 PLYMOUTH. 

and religious duties, in reading, writing, and the rudiments of 
arithmetic. Members of all societies unite in forwarding its 
views, and the utmost concord prevails in its administration. — 
A book is kept in the school, in which a subscriber may enter 
the names of children proposed, giving a proper description of 
their situation, so as to enable the committee to judge of the 
ability of the parents to provide education themselves, and to 
prevent injury to the private schools. A committee meet on the 
first Tuesday in every month, when vacancies are reported and 
filled up by the selection of those candidates, who seem to re- 
quire the most urgent attention. There are no positive rules to 
direct the decision of the committee, who are actuated by a 
general impression that the neediest cases should be selected, 
without the slightest partiality. When children are selected, 
their parents attend with them at the school, and a copy of the 
rules, relating to their conduct both in and out of school, is 
given to their parents, with a strict charge that it be attended 
to ; inquiry is also made whether they be members of the 
Church of England, or of any dissenting society : if they belong 
to the former, they are instructed in the church catechism and 
doctrines, and attend divine service regularly at the church : 
but if of the latter, their names are transmitted to the pastor 
of that society, requesting him to observe that the child is re- 
gular in attendance at public worship, and is instructed in 
religious duties. The funds of the school, which arise from 
private subscriptions, are about £200 per annum. The master, 
a respectable man, has a salary of £70 per annum . The school 
is open for the inspection of the public every Tuesday and 
Friday, at eleven o'clock in the forenoon. The building is in 
a convenient and airy situation, in Cobourg Street. 

Charles' Almshouses, at the head of Green Street, built in 
1679, by Mr. Lanyon and others, contain 40 persons, nomi- 
nated by the governor of the poor, and relieved by weekly 
allowance from the parish. 

Jory's Almshouses, in Jory Street, were erected in 1703, 
by Colonel Jory, a native of the town, for widows of deceased 
mariners ; the present trustees under his will appoint the 
inmates. Each widow receives an allowance of one pound five 
shillings per month, from money arising from the rent of 
several houses in the town. 

The Household of Faith, in Vermel Street, was erected 
out of a fund raised by private subscription and testamentary 
bequests. About 180 female children are here educated in re- 
ligious duties, in reading, writing, and plain work. It is 
maintained by private subscription, and collections occasion- 
ally made for it in Charles' church. The late Dr. Hawker was 
most active in the establishment of this charity. 



SUPPLEMENT. 3? 

Behind Sussex Place is a range of New Almshouses, erected 
in 1834, pursuant to the will of the late Francis Fox, Esq. for 
twelve women above 50 years of age, who have been resident 
not less than one year in the borough. The sum bequeathed 
amounted to £1200. 

Dame Betty Rogers's School is a charity bequeathed by 
the will of Lady Rogers, for the education of girls only, who 
are clothed, maintained, and so educated as to qualify them 
for good household servants. The number at present is forty- 
five. The building, which is hired, is situated in an airy situ- 
ation, on the Tavistock turnpike-road. The income arises from 
money in the funds, and amounts to £300 per annum. 

Connected with the Presbyterian chapel is a school for the 
clothing and education of 50 girls, instituted in 1785, and 
chiefly supported by contributions. The school-house where 
the mistress resides adjoins the chapel. 

Kelway's Trust. — The Rev. Mr. Kelway left money in the 
funds, the interest to be applied to the education of his rela- 
tions, whether boys or girls, and to afford a similar benefit to 
such poor boys as might be surplus claimants on the Grammar 
School. The trustees are the vicars of the two parishes, the 
master of the Grammar School, and the lecturer of St.Andrew's 
church, who select the boys, always preferring those who are 
related to the founder. When the funds admit of it, the boys 
are occasionally sent to Oxford, and take holy orders. 

There are in Plymouth a Mendicity Society, Female Bene- 
volent Society, Blanket Society, Provident Society, Female 
Penitentiary, Female Orphan Asylum, several Bible Societies, 
Tract ditto, Societies for promoting Christianity, Auxiliary 
Missionary Societies, and Sunday Schools connected with 
almost every place of worship in the town. 

As intimately connected with the well-being of the poor, we 
may here allude to Mr. Gill's Chapel on the Hoe, already 
mentioned, (Introductory Sketch, page9) and to the Mariners' 
Church, in the establishment of which the Rev. John 
Hatchard, Vicar of St. Andrew's^ successfully exerted himself 
some time back with his usual pious zeal. To the important 
end of supplying the religious wants of the sailors, fishermen, 
&c. of the port, he took the lease of a large store-room in the 
vicinity of the quays, and fitted it up for the accommodation of 
500 persons. It was opened by license of the Bishop in 
February, 1832, and has continued to be thus sacredly employed 
under the vicar's personal care, and by the aid of voluntary 
contribution. 

The Public Dispensary is in Catherine Street, near the 
workhouse. It originated in 1798 ; but the present building 



38 PLYMOUTH, 

was not erected until 1807. A marble tablet in the committee 
room records a bequest of £100Q by the late Charles Yonge, 
Esq. (an eminent medical practitioner in the town) which was 
preserved entire to the institution by the Rev. Duke Yonge, 
who paid the legacy duty amounting to £100. Another tablet 
commemorates the late William Woollcombe, Esq. M.D. one 
of the earliest and most zealous patrons of the Dispensary. It 
is governed by a president, vice-president, treasurer, secietary, 
and a committee, annually chosen. Two physicians, eight 
surgeons, and two surgeon-dentists attend gratuitously, and 
the poor are visited at their own houses as occasion may require. 
An apothecary attends daily (Sundays excepted) at a salary 
of £50 per annum ; and there is also a resident matron with 
£10. lQs. per annum, and apartments rent free. It is supported 
by voluntary contribution, and the number of patients admitted 
from the lime of its establishment to Christmas, 1834, amounted 
*o about 40,000 

The Eye Infirmary, in Westwell Street, originated with 
Dr. J . Butter, F.R.S. and Dr. E, Moore, who, in 1821, set forth 
the necessity of the institution so strongly as immediately to 
induce subscriptions to a considerable amount. It is supported 
entirely by voluntary contributions, and patients are admitted 
by the subscribers' recommendations. In-patients are expected 
to contribute 3s. 6d. per week from their respective parishes, 
and to bring a change of linen. The institution is governed 
by a patron, vice-patron, and patroness ; a president, vice- 
president, and treasurer, (the last three annually elected) and a 
committee annually chosen. The medical directors consist 
of one physician, two resident surgeons, and one corresponding 
surgeon. Their services, together with those of the treasurer 
and secretary, are gratuitous, the dispenser receiving a salary 
of £25 per annum. During thirteen years from the foundation 
near 70QO patients, have been assisted, and the committee, in 
their report for 1834, express themselves as looking forward to 
the erection of a building more suitable to the institution than 
the small house now rented for its purposes. 

The " South Devon and East Cornwall Hospital " 
will, it is confidently expected, soon arise as the leading medical 
and surgical asylum in this part of the country. The court of 
governors of the "Plymouth Public Dispensary," encouraged 
by the liberal donations already made, and their rapidly 
increasing subscription list, have purchased a piece of ground 
adjoining Sussex Place, Princess Square, as the most eligible 
site for a building to answer the joint purposes of the existing 
Dispensary, and a general Hospital for in-patients. The pro- 
jectors* adverting to the fact that there is no such establishment 



SUPPLEMENT. 39 

nearer to Plymouth than that of Barnstaple on the north, 
of Exeter on the east, and of Truro on the west, naturally look 
for contributions and subscriptions from the numerous inter- 
vening towns and parishes ; and the measures towards this 
great good are now in such active operation as to leave no 
doubt that it will be speedily and liberally effected. 

Banking Houses.— Branch Bank of England, St. Andrew's 
Terrace. — Naval Bank, (Harris, Rosdew, Harris, and Co.) 
near the Guildhall, in Whimple Street. — Devon and Cornwall 
Banking Company, Bedford Street. 

In addition to the literary and scientific institutions noticed 
in the former part of this work, viz, the Public Library and 
Athersum, is the Mechanic's Institute, first established 
in 1825. The building in Princess Square was opened in 
December, 1827, when Dr. Cookworthy delivered an introduc- 
tory paper worthy of his acknowledged character for sterling 
argument and eloquent perspicuity. £100 was presented to 
this society by T. Greaves, Esq. The institution consists of 
about 130 members who are admitted to all the privileges of 
the society by quarterly payments of 3s. 3d. The Library is 
open on Tuesday and Friday from 8 to 10 in the evening, and 
contains about 1000 volumes* Lectures are regularly delivered 
on Wednesdays from November to April inclusive. Strangers 
are admitted by payment of Is. per lecture. Several classes 
(as Chemical, French, Drawing Classes, &c.) meet here for 
mutual improvement. 

The Medical Sootety, instituted 25th April, 1794, Consists 
of fifteen subscribers, elected by ballot as vacancies occur, and 
of fifteen or more associates. It is supported by subscriptions 
from the members and associates, the latter having no right in 
the property, nor voice in its management. Its object embraces 
the entire field of medical literature, and the library contains 
upwards of 700 volumes. This society originated with Samuel 
Fuge, Esq. a retired practitioner of Plymouth. 

The Law Library was established 13th June, 1815. Its 
members consist exclusively of professional gentlemen prac- 
tising as barristers or attorneys. They are elected by ballot 
and must either be proprietors of, or subscribers to, the Public. 
Library. The officers, consisting of a president, treasurer, 
secretary, and committee of seven, are annually elected in 
October. The books (now amounting to 600) are deposited 
in the Public Library, and are open to the reference of any 
proprietor of that library, though he be not of the legal 
profession. 

Two Newspapers are issued weekly in Plymouth, viz. " The 
Plymouth, Devonport, and Stonehouse Herald," published 

b 2 



40 



PLYMOUTH. 



on Saturday, by Nettleton and Co. of Whimple Street,* 
and the "Plymouth and Devonport Weekly Journal," pub- 
lished on Thursday, by Mr. W. E. Gill, 63, Old Town Street. 
There are also three Devonport, and several Exeter papers 
which include " Plymouth " in their title. " The South 
Devon Monthly Museum " is a respectably conducted and 
interesting periodical, published by Mr. G. Hearder, in 
Buckwell Street. The " West Devon and Cornwall Flora," 
by the Rev. J. Jacob, LL.D. is just advertised as about to 
appear in monthly numbers. 

It remains for us to notice the Riding School, just erected by 
Mr. Elliot, in Frankfort Lane ; an establishment that has long 
been wanted, and will, no doubt, meet with encouragement. — 
It is also in contemplation to erect a spacious mews, to com- 
bine all necessary conveniences for horses and carriages, with 
rooms for the transaction of business connected with the turf, 
a forge, surgery, &c. The originators of this scheme were 
Edmund Pym and E. Gabriel, Esqrs. 

The Racks originated at a rustic fete held in 1827, on a 
marsh near Crabtree, when the meniment of pony and donkey 
racing, pole climbing, and jumping in sacks, led to results 
more important ; as, shortly after, a meeting convened by 
public advertisement was held at the Royal Hotel, (the F^arl of 
Morley in the chair,) and the Plymouth, Devonport, and 
Cornwall Races were established. It was then decided that 
they should in future take place on Chelson Meadow, situated 
on the other side of the Laira, about a mile and a quarter from 
Plymouth. A temporary course was prepared for 1828, since 
which the present course has been made at au expense of 
between 400 and £500. It is a mile and a half in circumference, 
nearly of an oval figure, and quite flat. In 1829 the grand 
stand was built, combining the ladies' stand, the betting stand 
over, retiring rooms behind, and a spacious hall for refreshments 
below. In 1828, through the interest of the noble chairman, 
the gracious donation of a gold cup, value 100 guineas, was 
granted by His Majesty, as Lord High Steward of Plymouth, 
and has since been annually continued. In 1831, when His 
Royal Highness the Duke of Sussex was chosen Lord High 
Steward (on His Majesty's resigning that office,) he gave a 
plate of 50 sovereigns, which also is annually contributed. 
Resides these, a larger amount of public money is here ran for 
than at any other meeting in the kingdom. Plymouth gives a 
plate of 100 sovereigns, Devonport and Stonehouse lOOsover- 

* The Plymouth "Herald" is, in fart, published on Friday 
evening, though bearing Saturday's date. 



SUPPLEMENT. 41 

eigns, the ladies 50 sovereigns, the officers of the united service 
50 sovereigns, amounting, with minor sums added to different 
stakes, to between 400 and £500. The great attraction of the 
meeting, however, is the Saltram stakes of 25 sovereigns each, 
which have gradually increased from sixteen subscribers (with 
which it commenced) to sixty-two, and its average value is from 
300 to 500 guineas. Two stewards officiate annually, one of 
whom is chosen from Cornwall, and theotherfrom Devonshire. 
.Race Balls take place at Whiddon's Royal Hotel. In 1830 
the races received important additional support from the 
institution of "The Royal Plymouth, Devonport, and Corn- 
wall Race Association" of which His Majesty is patron, the 
Duke of Sussex, vice-patron, the Duke of Bedford, Earl of 
Morley, Lord Valletort and Lord Eliot, vice-presidents, 
C* Harris, Esq. treasurer, E. N. Gabriel, Esq. secretary, and 
one hundred and seventy of the sporting characters of the two 
counties are members, at the annual subscription of one 
sovereign. This meeting is generally held the first week in 
August, and continues three days. The Plymouth and 
Devonport Spring Races were established in 1831, and are 
principally for hunters ; the principal race is for the Lyneham 
stakes, after which there is a hurdle race. 

This information has been most obligingly afforded by 
E. N. Gabriel, Esq. clerk of the course. 

The inhabitants of the three towns also derive great amuse- 
ment from the Regatta, which takes place annually on or 
about the last Wednesday in July, and is most advantageously 
viewed from the summit and declivities of the Hoe. It were 
ungallant to question whether the yachts on the sea, or the 
ladies on land, contribute most to the attractiveness of the day » 
Certain it is, however, that the mere scene, independently of 
its great nautical interest, proves highly entertaining. 

The Royal Western Yacht Club (English division) consists 
of subscribing and honorary members, elected by ballot, (one 
black ball in seven to exclude.) Themanagementisvestedina 
commodore, vice-ditto, twelve presidents, twenty-four vice- 
ditto, and a committee of twenty-six. The members pay one 
guinea annually. Officers of the army and navy in actual 
service are admissable as honorary members, but no other 
persons within ten miles of Plymouth are eligible. The mem- 
bers of this club have the privilege of entering certain foreign 
ports free of port charges. 

To entitle members keeping yachts to all the privileges of the 
club, they must hold a commission, signed by a president and 
chairman of the council, and countersigned by the treasurer 
and secretary, which may be had on payment of the following 
fees, b 3 



42 PLYMOUTH. 

First Year. Annually. 

Under 15 tons £2 2 £11 

15 to 30 tons 3 3 2 2 

Above 30 tons 4 4 3 3 

Members of the yacht squadron, or of any royal yacht 
club, having the privileges of the yacht squadron, may be 
admitted members of the club and receive the commission, on 
paying one guinea annually, but their yachts are not exempt 
from entrance fees at the Plymouth Regatta. 

The yachts of the Irish division are under the direction of the 
English commodore, when on the coast of England, and yachts 
of the English division under that of the Irish commodore, 
when on the coast of Ireland. The signal flags in both 
divisions are the same. 

An annual general meeting of the members is held at the 
Club-room on the second Tuesday in April, to elect the 
council, and transact other business. 

Stated meetings of the council are held at the club-room on 
the last Tuesday in January, the last Tuesday in April, the 
last Tuesday in June, and the last Tuesday in October. There 
are also special meetings. The sailing at the regatta is 
managed by a committee of nine. The members of the club 
have dress and undress uniforms, andeach yacht has established 
flags and signals. A club dinner takes place on the day after 
the regatta, and a ball is annually held in aid of the funds. 

The Royal Devon and Cornwall Botanical and 
Horticultural Society was established in the year 1830, 
for promoting the study and practice of botany and horticulture, 
and for improving the condition of the humble cottager and 
industrious labourer, by the distribution of prizes. Three 
exhibitions take place in the year, viz. in May at the Royal 
Hotel, Plymouth ; in July at the Town Hall, Devonport ; and 
in September at Plymouth again. 

The society consists of fellows, cottage subscribers, honorary 
and corresponding members. The fellows are divided into two 
classes, the first comprising subscribers of one guinea or more 
per annum ; the second consisting of gentlemen's gardeners, 
market or jobbing gardeners, and other persons whose annual 
subscription amounts to the sum of ten shillings and sixpence. 
Both these classes are eligible to sit on committees, to be 
judges of prizes, and to have a voice in the affairs of the society. 

The cottage subscribers consist exclusively of agricultural 
and other labourers, whose wages do not exceed 15s. per 
week, and who occupy houses, the rent of which does not 
exceed £15 per annum. They pay 2s. 6d. per annum, and 
are only admitted with the consent of the major part of the 



SUPPLEMENT. 43 

committee present. They are privileged to compete for all 
prizes assigned to the fellows (who, however, are not suffered 
to compete for prizes with them) ; but are not entitled to any 
interest in the property of the society, nor are they eligible to 
seats in the committee, nor to any other office. 

Honorary members consist of such persons as the fellows 
think proper to elect, whether for their rank in society, their 
celebrity as botanists or horticulturists, or in any other 
department of science, 

Contributors of ten guineas and upwards, at one time, are 
considered presidents and fellows for life of the first class, 
enjoying all the advantages of annual subscribers of one guinea > 
and for every additional ten guineas are entitled to an increased 
number of tickets of admission to the exhibitions in an adequate 
proportion to their donations. The presidents, vice-presidents, 
secretaries, treasurer, and a committee of twenty -four, are 
elected annually on the first Tuesday in February. The com- 
mittee meet for the ordinary dispatch of business on the first 
Tuesday in every month. 

Any person desirous of becoming a member, must be pro- 
posed and seconded by members of the society at any meeting 
of the committee, and balloted for at a succeeding meeting, 
provided there shall at that time be seven members present. 
Should the requisite number not be present, the chairman is 
empowered to call a special meeting for that particular object. 
The judges are at least twelve in number, viz. : — three for 
fruits ; three for flowers ; three for vegetables ; and three for 
cottagers' prizes ; and are selected for their peculiar acquaintance 
with the objects on which they are to decide. Their decision 
is final. 

Each subscriber of the first class is entitled to three trans- 
ferable tickets for every guinea of annual subscription, (together 
with a ticket for a cottage visitor, admitting the bearer at the 
hours of the shilling admission, but not entitling him to be a 
competitor for prizes); each subscriber of the second class to 
two ; and each subscriber of the cottagers' class to one 
transferable ticket. 

Fellows of the first and second classes, with their friends, 
are admitted to the exhibition one hour before the doors are 
opened to the public generally. 

Admittance by checks, at 2s. 6d. each, is allowed from one 
to four o'clock in the afternoon ; and by checks at Is. each, 
from that hour to the close of the exhibition at five. The 
representatives of the counties of Devon and Cornwall in 
Parliament are honorary members ; also the officers for the 
time being of the Plymouth Institution - } and the officers for the 



44 PLYMOUTH. 

time being of the Devon and Exeter, North Devon, and Royal 
Cornwall Botanical and Horticultural Societies. 



HISTORIC SKETCH. 

Whether Plymouth occupies the site of the ancient Tameor- 
iverthe has not been yet positively determined. If, however, 
it had attained any consequence before the conquest, it sub- 
sequently lost it ; since, according to Lel.md, it was in the time 
of Henry II. a "mean habitation for fishers." It was 
formerly called Sutton, or South Town, and comprised the three 
divisions of Sutton Ralph, Sutton Prior, and Sutton Valletort. 
Ralph was the name of the first Prior of Plympton, appointed 
1 121, and Walter de Valle-Torta was among the benefactors 
of that priory, whence it would seem that this now important 
place was, at that time, dependent on the once important 
Abbey of Plympton. It appears from a record in the time of 
Richard II. that it was occasionally called " Plymouth ;" and, 
in the latter part of the reign of Henry IV. it is spoken of as 
11 Sutton, otherwise Plymouth." In 1253, Henry III. granted 
the Prior of Plympton a market and fair, with a right of 
holding weekly courts, and assize of bread and beer, view of 
frank pledge, and power to inflict the punishments of the 
pillory and ducking-stool. Members were first sent to parlia- 
ment in the time of Edward I. ; but this privilege seems to 
have been suspended during the reign of Edward II. nor was 
it resumed until after the accession of Henry VI. Plymouth 
was, at an early period, a place of occasional rendezvous for 
the British Navy. From hence the Black Prince sailed on his 
expedition in 3355, and here he disembarked with his Royal 
prisoner, the King of France. 

The French effected a landing here in the course of this 
reign, but were driven back to their ships by Courtenay, Earl 
of Devonshire. After various other attempts, they landed in 
the reign of Henry IV. and burnt 600 houses ; but, failing to 
reduce the castle, they retreated, and proceeded to Dartmouth 
where several hundred of them were made prisoners. In the 
reign of Henry VI. the Prior of Plympton, by granting liberal 
leases, induced a motive for building and residence greatly 
eondusive to the improvement of the port. 

A petition, dated 1411, urges the necessity of fortifications ; 
but the measure was not acceded to till 1439, when, "among 
other privileges, the inhabitants had the grant of a toll on all 
merchandize'* to enable them to execute the work; and it is 



SUPPLEMENT. 45 

doubtless, to these fortifications Leland alludes, when he says, 
M the mouth of the gulph where the ships of Plymouth lie, 
is walled on each side and chained over in time of necessity. 
On the S.W. side of the mouth is a blockhouse ; and, on a 
rocky hill hard by it is a strong castle quadrate, having at each 
corner a great round tower." A map in the British Museum, 
taken in the reign of Henry VIII. exactly corresponds with 
this description. 

By the Act of 1439, in pursuance of which the town was 
fortified, it was also incorporated under the name of Plymouth, 
the manor of Sutton Prior with alt its rights, &c. being settled 
on the corporation, with a reserved annual rent of £40 payable 
to the Prior of Plympton, and an annuity of ten marks to the 
Abbot of Bath. After the dissolution of monasteries, the 
advowson and tithes of Plymouth church, which had hitherto 
belonged to the monks of Plympton, were vested in the body 
corporate. In 1512, an Act was passed for enlarging and 
strengthening the fortifications; and to all who contributed to 
this work.. Bishop Lacy granted a liberal indulgence. In 1531, 
the tin miners were prohibited from working in the neighbour- 
hood of any river communicating with the sea at Plymouth, 
inasmuch as it had occasioned an accumulation of sand at the 
mouth of the harbour, and had proved detrimental to the 
fresh water used by the inhabitants. In the 27th of Queen 
Elizabeth, the renowned Sir Francis Drake obtained an act for 
bringing a stream of water from Dartmoor into t e town, as 
more pa'ticularly alluded to in page 30 of this work. In 1579 
and 1581 the plague raged in Plymouth with gieat violence. 
In 1588 the British Fleet (to which Plymouth contributed 
seven ships) rendezvoused in the Sound under the command of 
Sir F. Drake, Lord Howard, and Sir John Hawkins. The 
issue of the contest between the British and the Invincible 
armadas is too well known to need further comment. As the 
comic song has it, 

"Our Admiral drake 
He made them all duck," 

and the positive intentions of Don Whiskerandos Medina, 
comfortably to possess himself of Mount Edgcumhe as his 
"island home," were not quite so "positive" as the broadsides 
of the British Commander. 

In 1596, the British Fleet again assembled at Plymouth, 
prior to its successful expedition against Cadiz, under the joint 
command of the Earls of Essex and Nottingham, Lord 
Howard being the vice, and Sir Walter Raleigh the rear 
admiral. It was also from hence that the Earl of Essex 
sailed on his unfortunate expedition to Ireland. 



46 PLYMOUTH. 

In 1625, Charles I. with his entire court, and 6000 troops 
arrived here from Portsmouth, and the monarch and his suite 
were sumptuously entertained by the mayor and commonalty. 
But "change makes change;" and in 1643, Plymouth was 
distinguished by its gallant resistance to the royalists com- 
manded by Prince Maurice and Col. Digby, who where 
compelled to withdraw their forces after a siege of more than 
three months. In 1644, the royalists under Sir R. Grenville 
again made several unsuccessful attacks, and Prince Maurice 
only repeated his attempts to give additional proof to the 
impregnability of the town. Grenville v/as subsequently left 
to make the experiment of a blockade ; but in this he was 
thwarted by the timely arrival of his opponent, the Earl of 
Essex. Aided by the " King's name " — that " tow'r of 
strength " the royalists were yet unable to effect the subjugation 
of Plymouth, and Charles left Sir. R. Grenville to the direction 
of a second blockade. This was continued from Sept. 14th, 
1644, to January 10th, 1646, when, after several ineffectual 
assaults, the spirited inhabitants were left in quiet possession 
of the important post they had so bravely defended. Some of 
the military works at this time erected are still perceptible 
around the town. It appears that the town, however attached 
to the parliamentary cause, was not without sympathy for the 
unfortunate monarch whom they had opposed, as their new 
church, the erection of which had been interrupted by the 
civil wars, was, on its completion, dedicated to Charles. 

After the restoration the present citadel was erected, and 
surveyed by Charles II. who visited Plymouth in 1670 and 
1676. In 1683, the corporation charter was surrendered to 
the King on the requisition of Judge Jeffries, and a new one 
obtained at a great expense, vesting the government of the town 
in ten aldermen and twelve assistants. In 1697, the old 
charter was re-obtained. 

The first lighthouse on the Eddystone was erected in 1696, 
by Mr. H. Winstanley, who perished with the building during 
a furious tempest in November, 1703. A second lighthouse 
constructed in 1706-1709 by Mr. Rudyerd, was destroyed by 
accidental fire, December 2nd, 1755 ; and on June 1st, 1757, 
the first stone of the present lighthouse was laid. It was 
completed August 24th, 1759. In 1782, Lord Boringdon (now 
Earl of Morley ) was honoured with the presence of George III. 
at Saltram ; and in 1789, that monarch, with his queen and 
several members of the royal family, visited the Dock-Yard. 

Among the principal occurrences since the dawn of the 19th 
century, as connected with the history of Plymouth, may be 
mentioned the commencement of the Breakwater, August 12th, 



SUPPLEMENT. 47 

1812 ; and the erection of the Royal Hotel and Theatre in 
1813. The year 1815 is rendered memorable in our annals by 
the appearance of H.M.S. Bellerophon, having on board 
the ex-Emperor of France, Napoleon le Grand ! His exile 
being determined on, he was conveyed to the island of St. 
Helena on board the Northumberland. An interesting picture of 
Napoleon, as he then appeared gazing from the gangway on 
the thousands of spectators who daily assembled round the 
Bellerophon, was painted by C. L. Eastlake Esq. R.A. and 
now hangs in the Hall of Heanton Satchville, in Devon, the 
seat of Lord Clinton. In August, 1824, the foundation stone 
of Lary Bridge was laid ; and in the November of the same 
year occurred a furious hurricane, which greatly damaged the 
Breakwater, and occasioned a frightful loss of life and property 
in the Sound and Catwater harbour — many vessels were 
wrecked, and the lower part of the town was flooded to a con- 
siderable depth. In 1826, Chelson Meadow, (which had 
been recovered from the sea by an embankment raised by the 
Earl of Morley,) was established as the course for the 
Plymouth and Devonport Races. The year 1828 was dis- 
tinguished by a visit from his present Majesty William IV. 
(then Duke of Clarence) who attended the Athenaeum, when 
W. S. Harris, Esq. had the honour of delivering a paper 
illustrating the advantages of his newly-invented lightning 
conductors as applied to the preservation of ships. In the 
same year the contemptible Miguel of Portugal darkened the 
town with his presence ; and, in 1830, three thousand adherents 
to the legitimate cause of his brother Don Pedro took refuge 
here. 

On the 16th of May, 1832, the Hoe became the scene of an 
immense public assemblage, uniting the reformers of the three 
towns, who met to petition the House of Commons "to with- 
hold its confidence and the public supplies from any minister 
who might not support unmutilated and unimpaired" the 
measure of parliamentary reform. This meeting was occasioned 
by the resignation of Earl Grey on the second defeat of his 
measures in the House of Lords. 

On the 27th of June following, the reformers of the three 
towns again united, to celebrate by a triumphal procession the 
passing of the Reform Bill. 

In the autumn of 1832, Plymouth, with its neighbouring 
towns, and the Kingdom in general, was severally visited by 
the Cholera. The total number of cases reported within the 
borough, was 1805 — number of deaths 702. On Wednesday, 
10th October, (the pestilence having disappeared) the churches 
and chapels were open for a public thanksgiving. In Stone- 
house there were 286 cases, and 132 deaths ; in Devonport 408 
cases, and 197 deaths, 



48 PLYMOUTH. 

On the lith of December, 1832, Messrs. Bewes and Collier 
were elected the first members for the borough under the 
Reform Act. The election was uncontested. Their prede- 
cessors in parliament were Sir T. B. Martin and Sir George 
Cockburn. 

In August, 1833 Plymouth was honoured by the presence of 
Her R.H. the Duchess of Kent and the Princess Victoria, 
who, after landing at the Dock Yard, Devonport, proceeded 
to VVhiddon's Royal Hotel, where a loyal address was presented 
to them by the mayor and commonalty. During the visit of 
their Royal Highnesses, the 89th regiment was presented with 
new colours by the Princess Victoria, and the troops were 
inspected by Lord Hill, commander of H.M. forces. 

During the month of January, 1835, the town was in a 
considerable state of excitement, caused by the re-appearance 
of Sir George Cockburn, (by proxy, in the person of his 
brother Sir James) as the tory candidate, to represent the 
borough of Plymouth. The contest was carried on with great 
warmth, and concluded with the re-election of Thomas Bewes 
and John Collier, Esqrs. staunch adherents to the reform 
interest. 



STONEIIOUSE. 



STRANGER'S GUIDE. 



Inns. 



Hale's Brunswick Hotel, near the Bridge Gate, affords 
excellent accommodation, both as to house and stabling. 
The establishment is conducted in a most respectable 
and satisfactory manner. The Prince George, Crown 
Inn, on the Quay, and the Buckingham Arms, in Edg- 
cumbe Street, afford accommodation for strangers. 

Lodging Houses. 

These are chiefly in Union Street, and on the east 
side of Durnford Street. In the latter are also some re- 
spectable Boarding-Houses. 

The first object that may arrest the stranger's attention 
in passing from Plymouth into Stonehouse is the estab- 
lishment of the 

United Gas Company, 

at Mill-Bay, whence the three towns are supplied, and 
by which a direct line of nearly four miles, from the 
eastern turnpike-gate at Plymouth, to the gate of the 
dock-yard at Devonport, is illumined. The gasometers, 
three in number, are discernible to every passenger by 
the new road from Plymouth over the marshes ; and per- 
mission to view the works is readily granted. 

The principal streets in Stonehouse are those forming 
and a rectilinear continuation of Union Street, Plymouth, 
the united thoroughfare of Chapel Street and Durnford 



50 STOREHOUSE. 

Street, extending at a right angle from the west end 
of the former, towards the Sound on the south. The 
shops will chiefly be found in Edgcumbe and Chapel 
Streets. The older part of the town lies to the north, 
which includes the Royal Naval Hospital. The southern 
part is constantly increasing, particularly in the neigh- 
bourhood of Durnford Street, Emma Place, &c. which 
are almost entirely occupied by genteel families, chiefly 
those of naval and military officers, and other persons 
holding situations under the government. 

St. George's Parochial Chapel, 

In Chapel Street, is externally an unadorned stone build- 
ing, with a disproportioned tower, and presents no 
display of architectural taste. The interior is fitted up 
in a neat style, with commodious galleries on three sides, 
a singing gallery, and an organ. The incumbent, who is 
a perpetual curate, is appointed by the vicar of St. 
Andrew's Plymouth, which is the mother church. — 
The present chapel was erected in 1789, and is sur- 
rounded by the burying-ground. 

At the south end of Durnford Street is 

St. Paul's Chapel, 

An edifice in the earliest Pointed Style, first opened 
for divine service on the 5th July, 1831. It was erected 
from designs by Mr. Foulston, (the tender for its execution 
amounting to £2630,) and affords seats for nearly 
1100 persons, of which the greater number are free. 
The architect's means were limited as to internal 
decoration ; but the building taken altogether, and 
particularly as regards the exterior (in any point of 
view), holds out a confident challenge to criticism. The 
minister of St. Paul's is appointed by the incumbent of 
the parish of Stonehouse. It will be observed that the 
Chapel, and several handsome houses to the west, form 
part of an extended scheme in progress, the realization 



stranger's guide. 51 

of which is in no mean degree dependent on ..the fasci- 
nating character of the water scenery in the immediate 
vicinity. To this we have already alluded in our intro- 
ductory remarks, and shall again take occasion to do so 
in describing the Victualling-Office. 

The other places of worship are the Established Cha- 
pel, in the Royal Naval Hospital; the Roman Catholic 
Chapel, in Pearl Street ; the Independent Calvinist 
Chapel, in Barrack Street; the Methodist Chapel, in 
Edgcumbe Street; and the Ebenezer Baptist Chapel, in 
Union Street. 

The Royal Marine Barracks 

are situated at the back of Durnford Street, on the 
western shore of Mill-bay, where a convenient landing- 
place is constructed. The buildings form an oblong 
square ; in front, on entering, are the apartments for the 
privates — those of the officers are on two of the sides. 
On the west side are the entrance gates, and a newly- 
erected guard-house. The barracks are regularly and 
handsomely built, have a hospital, and will accommodate 
nearly 1000 men. The mess apartments are spacious 
and well furnished, and the officers have a very good 
library. 

The Marine Band is justly noted as of more than 
common excellence, and forms a source of genuine 
delight to the inhabitants of the vicinity, who daily 
assemble within the parade to enjoy the performances 
which take place at certain stated hours. 

The Long Room Barracks, of which former guide- 
books speak, have recently been dismantled, and the 
materials sold. The mess room, with its offices, a 
substantial building, remains. It was formerly (before 
its purchase by government) an assembly room, and is 
a spacious apartment with a painted ceiling. 

We are now in the immediate neighbourhood of the 
great lion of Stonehouse, 

c 2 



52 S10NEH0USE. 

"The Royal William Victualling Yard," 

which lies at a short distance to the S.W. of St. Paul's 
chapel. The visitor's attention will first be arrested by 
the grand 

Entrance Gate, 

with its lofty central arch and lateral passage ways, its 
emblematical sculptures and crowning pedestal, sur- 
mounted by the statue of His Majesty William the 
Fourth. The two opposing colonnades, extending in- 
ward, will next command admiration ; nor can we but 
anticipate the acknowledgment, that, as a piece of 
sterling architecture, taken altogether, it forms a Pro- 
pylceum worthy of the noble establishment to which it 
leads. With the exception of the statue (which is of 
Portland stone) the whole building is of beautiful 
granite ; and as specimens of the extreme nicety to 
which this material can be worked, the ox's heads over 
the piers, and, more particularly, the cables and anchors 
over the lateral doors may be mentioned. It will be 
observed, that the shafts of the columns forming the 
internal avenue, are each of one stone. The leading 
dimensions are as follow: — 

Feet Ins. 

Height of central opening 25 2 

Width of ditto 14 6 

Height to top of blocking course over ? q« in 

cornice 5 

Height of pedestal 12 

Height of figure 13 6 

Total height to crown of statue 62 4 

Entire extent of front 63 6 

Entire depth from outer front of arch to ~) 

outer angles of the two buildings at 5- 119 

ends of colonnades J 

Height of columns within 13 

After passing the gateway, we see at a short distance 
to the left, the neat granite-fronted residences of the two 




E 

3 



Zzm^EEmE^-- 



_Ma^on' o/tJit (-ale JTa), 




STOREHOUSE . 



STRANGER S GUIDE. 53 

principal resident officers. Immediately on the right is 
the baking establishment, comprising a quadrangular 
range of buildings 250 feet by 200 feet, inclosing an 
architectural chimney shaft of granite 150 feet high. 
Further on is the Melville quadrangle, 240 feet square, 
with its rusticated granite archway, (27ft. 9ins. high and 
15ft. 6ins. broad) and clock-chamber of the same material, 
making altogether an elevation of 95ft. Gins, and forming 
a magnificent centre piece 61 feet wide. Opposite this 
is the bason 250 by 200, surrounded by quays of granite, 
save where an iron swing bridge vaults over a 45 feet 
opening into Stonehouse Pool. Answering the great 
bakehouse, on the opposite side of the bason, is the brew- 
house similar in dimensions and external character to the 
former, and having a corresponding chimney shaft. 
Passing onwards in a direct line from the entrance, we 
find the irregular quadrangle of the cooperage on our 
left ; and beyond this we arrive at the Clarence stores, 
(340 feet long and 50 feet broad) in front of which is 
the Clarence wharf, extending its spacious platform over 
a length of 500 feet, and terminated by a water entrance, 
distinguished by its double flight of steps and massive 
piers, the latter exquisitely wrought, and the whole of 
granite. Taking the Clarence, in conjunction with the 
other line of wharfs, with which it forms an obtuse 
angle, we have, as it were, a marine terrace of about 
1500 feet ; nor will the spectator fail to comment on the 
singularly interesting prospect commanded by the 
Clarence wharf, whence a part of Mount Edgcumbe, 
the entrance into Hamoaze, (with, most likely, the flag 
ship in full view) a portion of the Dock Yard, and the 
houses of the admiral and governor on Mount Wise. 
To facilitate this general description of the leading 
features and their localities, a small plan is subjoined. 

A. Grand Entrance. — BB. Officer's Houses. — C. 
Bakehouse. — D. Melville Stores. — E. Bason. — F. 
Brewhouse. — G. Cooperage. — H. Clarence Stores. — I. 
Water Entrance. — K. Clarence Wharf. — LL. other 

c 3 



54 STOREHOUSE. 

wharfs. — M. opening into Tunnel. — N. Reservoir on the 
top of the rock, exalted above the level of the excavated 
Yard. — O. is the Slaughter-house. The entire premises 
occupy an extent of about thirteen acres, of which per- 
haps six acres have been recovered from the sea, the 
materia] for that purpose being derived from the ex- 
cavations made in preparing the remainder of the site. 
The labour attendant on this operation may be the better 
conceived, by knowing that the quantity of rock removed 
is estimated at 300,000 tons!' The sea wall abounding 
the 1500 feet of wharf, (as before described) was sup- 
plied with its foundation, and built up to the water level 
by means of diving bells. The wall is founded at from 
8 to 9 feet under low water mark, springtides, and rises 
a total height of about 30 feet. Its face is curved in- 
wards at a radius of 71/ 6" to resist the internal pressure 
of the ground. The lofty wall built against the residue 
rock, on which the reservoir is situated, is also curved in 
like manner. The latter is nearly 50 feet high. The 
reservoir, (neatly finished with granite and lime stone, 
and surrounded with an iron railing) measures nearly 
200 by 150 feet square, and will contain nearly 7000 
tons of water. This communicates by cast iron pipes 
with another reservoir two miles distant, in Four Field 
Lane, Plymouth, and which is supplied by a stream 
from Dartmoor. The general facing of the several 
quadrangles, &c. is of wrought lime stone ; but the 
cornices, plinths, and various "dressings," with the more 
decorative portions of the principal fronts, are of granite. 
The Clarence, Melville stores, and Cooperage, have 
iron roofs, and the latter has also fire-proof floors, laid 
with 4-ins. York Paving, on iron girders. The cooper's 
shops are built in the centre of the cooperage yard, to 
prevent fire being communicated to the surrounding 
buildings. The top of each roof is covered with copper : 
the lateral inclinations with slate. The door and window- 
frames are of cast iron, also the internal columns sup- 
porting the girders, &c. of floors. To provide against 



STRANGER S GUIDE. 55 

the difficulty of getting vessels round the Point in certain 
states of the wind or tide, a tunnel has been constructed 
leading immediately from the sound to the back of the 
yard, into which it opens through a handsome rusticated 
archway near the two houses of the resident officers. 

The Melville quadrangle includes the offices of the 
establishment, and store-rooms for wet and dry provisions, 
and slop clothing, &c. The Clock over the centre is a 
noble machine by Vulliamy. 

The Clarence stores are also for wet and dry pro- 
visions. 

The Brewhouse is furnished with a steam-engine of 
40 horse power, by which the grinding of malt, mashing, 
pumping, &c. is effected. A similar engine is also em- 
ployed in the bakehouse, where there are twenty-five 
pair of mill-stones, affording the means of grinding a 
thousand bushels of meal in ten hours. The manner in 
which the meal is sorted and sifted deserves particular 
attention. 

The baking department is also most interesting, and 
in ten hours the whole process is effected of converting 
simple flour into 2450 pounds weight of biscuit. 

Having viewed the yard, the stranger will not fail to 
visit the reservoir above, whence he will have a bird's- 
eye view of this vast establishment. From the Point 
lower down he will command that most choice prospect 
of Mount Edgcumbe, to which allusion has been already 
so particularly made. 

The Royal Naval Hospital 

is situated in the north-east portion of the town. This 
important institution, for the reception of sick and 
wounded seamen and marines, was first opened in 1762. 
The government is intrusted to an officer holding the 
rank of post-captain, who also discharges the duty of 
resident-commissioner of the victualling-office, and re- 
sides at the hospital. 



56 STOREHOUSE. 

The hospital occupies a rising ground overlooking 
Stonehouse-creek, which forms its northern boundary. 
The area of the whole is about twenty-four acres, thirteen 
of which are occupied by a lawn, forming a delightful 
place of exercise for the convalescent patients. The 
entrance from the town is in Fore Street, where a 
subaltern's guard is constantly stationed. An avenue 
leads to the houses of the principal officers. Opposite 
these is the entrance to the hospital, with the commis- 
sioner's and other offices adjoining. The hospital 
consists of ten buildings, surrounding an extensive 
quadrangle, each containing six wards, calculated to 
receive sixteen patients ; but in cases of emergency that 
number can be extended to twenty. From this state- 
ment it will be seen, that as many as twelve hundred 
patients can be accommodated at one time. Every care 
has been taken to prevent the spreading of contagious 
diseases ; the several buildings having no other commu- 
nication than is afforded by a piazza, which surrounds 
three sides of the quadrangle, and affords a sheltered walk 
for exercise in unfavourable weather. Between the 
principal edifices are four pavilions ; one is used as a 
store-room, in another is the operating-room, and the 
small-pox ward adjoining. The remaining two are 
occupied by the cooking and victualling-rooms. The 
central building on the east contains the dispensary, and 
dispenser's apartments ; over these is the chapel. 
Divine service is performed every Sunday, when, 
besides the persons connected with the establishment, 
the chapel is resorted to by a portion of the inhabitants 
of the town. Besides the governor, there are, to ad- 
minister the duties of this noble establishment, two 
lieutenants, a physician, surgeon, agent, steward, dis- 
penser, four hospital mates, several extra ditto, a chaplain, 
&c. 

The patients on being admitted are examined by the 
medical officer on duty, and if necessary, are washed 
and clothed in the hospital dress, their own clothes 



stranger's guide. 57 

being taken from them, cleaned, and deposited in the 
storehouse until they are discharged. Hot, cold, and 
shower-baths, furnished with every necessary accommo- 
dation, are kept in constant readiness. There are also 
a convenient washhouse, and drying ground ; and at the 
eastern extremity is the reservoir, from whence the whole 
establishment is supplied with water. Atalittle distance, 
in one of the " Five Fields," a small piece of land is 
enclosed for the purpose of sepulture. 

The vast national importance of this institution may 
be gathered from the following authentic statement : — 
From the 1st January, 1800, to the 21st December, 1815, 
no fewer than 48,452 seamen and marines were received 
into the hospital, a very great proportion of whom 
returned to the service as effective men. 

When the greatest philanthropist the world ever pro- 
duced visited this hospital, he expressed, in the warmest 
terms, his approbation of its various arrangements. 
The commendation of a man, who was not only the 
glory of his country, but the ornament of the age, well 
deserves to be recorded as the highest eulogium upon 
this institution ; and there is no room to believe that it 
has degenerated since the time of Howard. Foreigners 
view its excellent appointments and discipline with 
admiration, and candidly regard it as a noble monument 
of true national greatness. 



SUPPLEMENTAL SUMMARY, &c. 



Stonehouse was originally called Hippeston, the name of a 
mansion first inhabited by Joel de Stonehouse, in the time of 
Edward III. The original, or West Stonehouse, wasatCremill 
on the opposite shore, under Mount Edgeumbe, and D urn ford 
Street derives its name from the family through which the 
manor has descended, by marriage, to its present noble 
possessor the Earl of Mount Edgeumbe, who, by granting 
leases on liberal terms, has caused the town rapidly to increase. 
The leases are granted on lives, renewable for ever at a fixed 
fine, and subject to an annual conveniionary rent. 

The only commerce carried on in this town, is the coal and 
timber trade ; the vessels thus employed discharging their 
cargoes at the quays in Stonehouse Pool, where the watermen 
who ply for hire also resort, and in the vicinity of which a 
commodious yard, for the building and repairing of vessels, 
has been a long time established. 

Stonehouse was constituted a Township by the Reform Act, 
and exerts the elective franchise in connexion with the borough 
of Devonport. It is divided into two wards, east and west, 
by the line of Brownlow Street. The town is under the jurisdic- 
tion of a bench of magistrates, who sit every Tuesday at the 
Town Halt, a small building, but suitably arranged for I he 
dispatch of business, and situated in High Street adjoining 
the Workhouse, a plain edifice, erected in 1801. The paupers 
are under the management of a governor, visiting and other 
guardians, two overseers, clerk, surgeon, matron, &c. A 
prison is attached to the workhouse, for the confinement of 
vagrants or petty offenders, where they are detained until they 
can be removed by order of the magistrates. 

The Market Place is a neat and convenient building, 
situated in Edgeumbe Street: two fairs are held annually in 
May and September, when the principal scene of bustle and 
gaiety is on the quay. 

The Commfrcial Rooms, in Edgeumbe Street, are a branch 
of the united establishment already described in page 21 of our 
Plymouth article. 

Reading Room, &:c. This establishment is in East Emma 
Place, where daily and weekly newspapers, the navy and army 
lists, &c. are taken in. The members chiefly consist of naval 
and military gentlemen, who are admitted by ballot. 



SUPPLEMENT. 59 

The Post Oifick is in Union Street, and the periods of 
airivai and departure are regulated by those of the Devonport 
and Plymouth post-offices. 

The National School, in Market Street, is conducted on 
Mr. Bell's plan of education. The hoys are instructed in the 
usual elements of useful knowledge ; the girls are also taught 
to knit and sew, under the direction of ladies, who devoie a 
portion of their time to the management of this department of 
the school. The institution is supported by annual sub- 
scriptions. 

The Benevolent Society was established for the relief of 
the sick and lying-in poor, and is supported by donations and 
subscriptions ; the funds are further augmented by the profits 
arising from the sale of ladies' fancy-work. This praiseworthy 
institution is under the patronage of Lady Emma _LMgcum.be. 

The poor of Stonehou.se have also the advantage of a district 
visiting Society, lately established by the Rev. S. Howe, 
incumbent of the parish : a blanket society ; clothing ditto ; 
a Sunday school in connexion with the church, a YYesleyan 
Sunday school, and a Bethel school. 

Adjoining the Victualling Yard is Mount Stone Almshouse 
for eight widows, lately established by Mrs. Bint, of Mount 
Stone House. The inmates are neatly clothed, and supplied 
weekly with coals, candles, and bread. They are members of 
the established church, and are furnished with bibles, prayer 
books, &c. 

The Bridge. — Previously to the erection of Stonehouse 
Bridge, foot-passengers were conveyed across the creek in a 
boat, drawn from side to side by a cable. When the increasing- 
importance of Devonport caused the thoroughfare to become 
more frequented, a stone bridge, of one arch, was constructed 
by the proprietors of the adjoining lands, the Earl of Mount 
Edgcumbe, and Sir John St. Aubyn, bart. The revenue 
derived from the erection of this bridge is considerable, as 
even foot-passengers pay a toll of one halfpenny. 

Higher up the creek is a second bridge of rough masonry, 
affording direct access from the northern part of Stonehouse to 
the populous villages of Stoke. 

One of the most remarkable features in the history of Stone- 
house is its adherence to the cause of King Charles, when 
Plymouth held out victoriously against it. 

The remains of several batteries erected in Elizabeth's time 
are still perceptible. Above one of them, which protected (in 
common with another on the opposite shore,) the entrance into 
Hamoaze, is a guardhouse, where the royal marine artillery 
practise the firing of heavy shot, their mark being a small flag 



60 STOREHOUSE. 

attached to a buoy in the Sound. On Stonehouse hill, over- 
looking Mill Bay from the north, is a modern fort, the site of 
which is leased by the Earl of Mount Edgcumbe to the Govern- 
ment, on the usual terms of the manor. The old manor office 
in Emma-place, is about to be supplanted by a new and 
substantial building, from designs by the author, to include 
offices for the stewards, and apartments for a resident clerk. 
Courts leet and baron are annually held by the stewards. 

Stonehouse is supplied with water by the Devonport company, 
incorporated by act of parliament in 1799, with power to collect 
the waters of several springs on Dartmoor, and to bring the 
same in an open course to the towns of Devonport and Stone- 
house. The springs are not above fifteen miles distant, but 
the leat traverses a winding course of more than 37 miles. 
Considerable improvements have been lately effected by the 
construction of new reservoirs, and by laying down extensive 
lines of cast iron pipes, affording an abundant supply of water 
to the towns generally, and also to the several government 
establishments. The works are under the direction of J. M. 
Rendel, Esq. engineer to the company. 

Mill Bay between the Peninsula of Stonehouse and the 
Continent of Plymouth, (if we may be so magnificently 
geographical) has quays only on the Plymouth side, Stonehouse 
Pool on the west side of the town being the harbour in com- 
mercial use. From Admiral's Hard, in the latter, boats may 
be hired. Here are several quays, ship -building yard, &c. 
and moorings for steam-boats and merchantmen. 



'r^sar 5. 




D EI/o/Vpox r Cot O/w/v , 

a.-noC 
Mount Z'lotl ChucpeL . 



BOROUGH OF DEVONPORT. 



STRANGER'S GUIDE. 



After passing Stonehouse toll bridge, a steep ascent 
of about 1| furlongs conducts to a gate forming the S.E. 
entrance into Devonport ; nor can we but allude to the 
striking prospect seen from hence, including the Victual- 
ling Office, Mount Edgcumbe, Plymouth, and a con- 
siderable extent of country bounded on N.E. by the 
lofty waving outline of Dartmoor. There are two other 
entrances defended by draw-bridges, viz. one on the 
N.E. leading to Stoke, and another on the N. leading 
to New Passage and Morice Town. A fourth entrance 
into the town is immediately from the water at North 
Corner, which would be more strictly called North-west 
Corner ; and there is a fifth entrance from the mouth of 
Hamoaze at Mutton Cove. The fortifications had ad- 
vanced to their present state in 1816, when the works 
were suspended. The town, which was first fortified in 
the reign of George II. is defended on the water side 
by the battery of Mount Wise, on the south, in addition 
to those of St. Nicholas Island, Mount Edgcumbe, and 
Stonehouse. 

The Principal Inns 

are Elliofs Rpyal Hotel, near the Dock Yard gates, 
west end of Fore Street; Weakley' 's Hotel; Townshend's 
London Inn ; Franklin's George Inn, $c. 

The Lodging Houses and Baths 

of Mr. R. O. Backwell arc charmingly situated in 
Richmond Walk, by the wafer side, south of the town 



62 DEVONPORT. 

and afford every accommodation for resident families 
with every variety of baths. 

Hackney Coaches 

are generally in readiness at the several stands, viz. in 
Fore Street, Catherine Street, Morice Square, and 
George Street. Omnibuses are constantly plying to and 
fro, between the western extremity of Devonport, and 
the eastern ditto of Plymouth. 

The Post Office 

is on the east side of St. Aubyn Street. (See page 73.) 
For fares, and information as to Coaches, Waggons, 
Vans, &c. ; Steam Boats, Packets, &c. &c. {See 
Appendix.) 

The Fore Street has been before-mentioned as the 
handsomest of the three towns, exhibiting a variety of 
excellent shops, and a general aspect of gaiety and 
respectability. At the western end is the Dock Yard 
gateway and chapel. The other leading thoroughfares 
are Catherine Street, Duke Street, and St. Aubyn Street ; 
the Market Place being near the junction of the two 
former. The market days are Tuesday, Thursday, and 
Saturday. 

The objects most worthy of notice in an architectural 
sense, are Ker Street, and the several buildings at its 
higher end. One side of the street presents a handsome 
Ionic range designed by Mr. Foulston, who was also 
architect of the Town Hall, Column, Mosque Chapel, 
and Egyptian Library. Of these, the Town Hall and 
Column will attract most earnest attention. The latter, 
as more particularly connected with the history of the 
town, shall be first mentioned. 

The Column 

was erected to commemorate the day when "Plymouth 
Dock " was superseded by the more distinguishing name 



Mm. 




.Efcv&bwwefJFbrZice 




. 






I 








———-—{ 


s 







jffian; &{ TerZzce 



rOTdTjTCO Of TJZ& Z>£V~0MPO&Z' TowzrJ&AZL 



stranger's guide. 63 

of " Devonport." To this end a petition was forwarded 
to George IV. in 1823, praying either that. such alteration 
should be made, or that such other name should be 
given as his Majesty might deem proper. The name 
desired was however graciously afforded ; and, on the 
12th August, 1824, the foundation stone of the existing 
structure was laid. Cost of erection about £2800. 
This noble monument is of granite, fluted, and of Doric 
proportions : not quite six diameters high : measuring 
65ft. 4ins. from the bottom of the shaft to the top of the 
capital ; and making, with its inferior and crowning 
pedestals, a total altitude of 101ft. 4ins. Its height 
above the street, including the rock on which it stands, 
is 124 feet: diameter of the shaft at the base 11 feet: 
ditto at the top 8ft. 6ins. : number of steps leading to 
the gallery 140. The extraordinary view from the 
gallery has been already alluded to in the Introductory 
Sketch (page 3,) and should on no account remain 
unseen by the visitor. A person is always in attendance 
to admit visitors, on payment of one shilling. 

The Town Hall 

is distinguished, not merely by a classic portico, but 
also in the fact of its not being (as such features mostly 
are) a mere transcript of classic example. The critical 
spectator will observe that it finishes with a horizontal 
blocking course, and that it is essentially Doric, though 
no triglyphs appear on its freize. The depth of the 
Pronabs, and the elevation of the entrance door upon a 
second internal landing, are peculiar features in this 
building, and greatly conduce to its boldness of effect. 
As a graphic memorandum of this arrangement a plan 
and elevation of the Portico have been sketched. The 
columns are 27ft. 6ins. high, and their lower diameters 
5ft. 6ins. The hall is 75ft. long; 40ft. wide; and 31ft. 
high. Within the building are cells for prisoners, offices 
for parochial business, and apartments occupied by the 
Mechanics' Institute. This structure, (which, with the 

d 2 



64 DEVON PORT. 

column, is certainly a substantial testimony to the taste 
and spirit of the inhabitants) was commenced in 1821, 
and completed (exceptingits internal fittings) for £2902.* 

The Library, 

conspicuous from its Egyptian front, was erected 1823, 
at an expense of about £1500. Mr. Rowe informs us 
that the celebrated Denon, on seeing Mr. Foulston's 
design for this facade, pronounced it the best attempt 
to appropriate Egyptian architecture to domestic pur- 
poses that had ever come under his notice. This 
building was erected for the purposes of the " Devonport 
and Stonehouse Classical and Mathematical Subscription 
School/' but was subsequently purchased for application 
to its present purpose. 

The library, which is designated " Civil and Military ," 
was established 1827, by proprietary shares — about 
eighty in number — of twenty guineas each : a contribu- 
tion of that sum, with an annual subscription of two 
guineas, constituting a proprietor. 

The building-comprises a news-room, committee-room, 
and spacious library, containing about four thousand 
volumes. 

The Institution is managed by a president, 2 vice- 
presidents, a treasurer, secretary, and committee of 
15 members, elected from the proprietors, at their 
annual general meeting in September. 

A union was formed in 1830, with the Garrison 
library, upon which occasion the Institution adopted its 
present designation, and admitted, as members, all 
military officers belonging to the Garrison; retired 

* The Column and Town Hall were executed by the late 
Mr. J. L. Kickard, whose protracted life might have proved 
surprisingly beneficial to the town. By no one (apart from his 
nearest relatives) is his loss more deplored than by the author, 
who had a large work proceeding under Mr. Rickard's masterly 
execution, when a fall from his horse at once deprived archi- 
tecture of a superior operator, and society of a valued man. 



STRANGEll's GUIDE. 65 

officers of the army, not permanently residing in the 
three towns or neighbourhood ; and the General, in 
command of the district, as an honorary member. , 

All proprietors — the General in command, the staff 
officers, and military members of the book committee, 
have the privilege of introducing strangers to the library, 
and news room : the following are the terms of sub- 
scription. 

Per Annum, 

Proprietors £3 3 

Military members 3s. 6d. monthly, or . . 2 2 

Subscribers to the library and news-room 3 3 

Ditto to the library alone 2 2 

Ditto to the news-room alone .... 1 1 

The library possesses a comprehensive and valuable 
collection of Minerals, lately the property of Sir John 
St. Aubyn, which he most liberally presented to the 
Institution. 

Mount Zion Chapel 

exhibits an ingenious adaptation of Mahomedan archi- 
tecture to christian purposes. It was erected in 1 823 — 4, 
at a cost of about £2000. The spectator will, no doubt, 
remark upon the singular commixture of styles, as shewn 
in the proximity of the several buildings just described, 
and which seem as if they had here met in parliament, 
to prefer the respective claims of their Greek, Egyptian, 
and Oriental constituents. The assemblage, though 
strange, is certainly picturesque ; and, if we hesitate to 
recommend the repetition of such experiments, we are 
far from regretting, that in this instance they have been 
made. 

St. Aubyn's Chapel, 

distinguished by its stone spire, was erected by sub- 
scription in 1771, under an act of parliament. 

Besides the regular service on Sunday, this chapel is 
also open for public worship on Wednesday and Friday. 

d 3 



66 DEV05P0RT. 

St. John's Chapel 

was erected by subscription, under an act of parliament, 
in 1 779, and is said to have cost the sum of £7700. 
The arrangement of the interior is curiously amphi- 
theatrical. The roof embraces a clear span of 70 feet, 
the length of the chapel being 90 feet. There are 
sittings for 1500 persons. 

Among the monuments is a pleasing bas-relief by 
Lege, to the memory of the Rev. T. M. Hitchins, many 
years minister of the chapel. Here is also a good organ. 
Since the time of the first curate, Mr. Hitchins, who was 
nominated by the subscribers, the presentation has been 
vested in the rector of the parish, and the lord of the 
manor of Stoke Damerell. Divine service is performed 
thrice on Sunday; and there are also prayers and 
lectures on Tuesdays and Thursdays. 

The Dock Yard Chapel, 

erected by government in 1821, will be admired as a 
spacious and substantial structure, expensively fitted up, 
and furnished with a good organ. It is, of course, 
chiefly intended for the accommodation of the officers, 
civil, naval, and military, together with the operatives 
and soldiers belonging to the yard ; but it is also open 
to the public, and is in general fully attended. 

The Dissenting Meeting Houses are as follows : — 
Mount Zion Calvin ist Chapel, in Ker Street, already 
described : Calvinist Chapels in Princess Street, Mount 
Street, and South Street: Baptist Chapels in Morice 
Square and Pembroke Street : Methodist Chapels in 
Morice and Column Streets : Moravian Chapel in James 
Street, and Unitarian Chapel in Granby Street. 

It will be observed, that the north and east sides of 
Devonport are fortified with wall and fosse, the south 
side and the west ditto (which last is almost entirely 
occupied by the Dock Yard and Gunwharf ) being open 
to the water. The three land entrances have guard- 



stranger's guide. 67 

houses contiguous, those on the north and north-east 
having- gateways of massive masonry and draw-bridges. 
Immediately north of the Plymouth entrance are the 
offices and storehouses of the engineer department. 
The eastern side of the town is flanked by the several 
barracks for the artillery, engineers, cavalry, infantry, 
&c. On Mount Wise, which bounds the southern 
portion of the town, is 

Government House, 

delightfully situated on the Grand Parade, and com- 
manding a southern view of great beauty. The house 
contains every accommodation for carrying on the 
military government, and for the household of the 
governor. The front extends 200 feet. The brass 
cannon near the principal entrance was taken from the 
Turks in the engagement of the Dardanelles. North- 
west of the governor's is the 

Port Admiral's House, 

including offices for the transaction of naval business, 
courts martial being held on board the flag-ship in 
Hamoaze. At a short distance south-west on the top 
of the hill is the Semaphore, by which a constant com- 
munication is maintained between the office and the 
flag-ship, and which forms the first of a chain of tele- 
graphs communicating with the Admiralty in London. 
To illustrate the perfection of the telegraphic system, it 
will be sufficient to state, that a message has been sent 
to, and an answer received from London, in fifteen 
minutes ! The Parade, with its martial pomp and music, 
and Mount Wise, with its charming walks and prospects, 
form a great source of pleasure to the inhabitants ; nor 
must we omit to recommend to the visitor's notice, 

Richmond Walk, 

along the water's edge, at the foot of Mount Wise, 
formed by the late Duke of Richmond, when master- 



68 DEVONPORT. 

general of the ordnance, to remedy the discontent occa- 
sioned by his having built the boundary wall which 
surrounds the town immediately above the sea shore. This 
walk is approachable from the south-east or Plymouth 
gateway, and conducts to the bathing establishment already 
mentioned, (page 61) and to the King's stairs erected for 
the use of the navy and army in 1820, at the joint expense 
of the Admiralty and Ordnance boards. The baths are 
also approachable on foot from Mount Wise, and by a 
carriage way from Stonehouse bridge. 

Boatmen ply for hire at North Corner, New Passage, 
and Mutton Cove. A particular account of the Steam- 
Boat Bridge, at New Passage, will be hereafter given. 
The ferry between Mutton Cove and Mount Edgcumbe 
is worked by two boats for foot passengers, and another 
for carriages and horses. 



SUPPLEMENTAL SUMMARY OF GENERAL 
INFORMATION. 



Devonport is in the hundred of Roborough, parish of Stoke- 
Damerell, archdeaconry of Totnes, and diocese of Exeter — 
218 miles from London, (see Stoke article.) The entire 
manor, (including the town and villages of Stoke and Morice 
Town) formerly belonged to the Wise family ; was transferred 
by purchase to the family of Morice ; and is now, by inheri- 
tance, the property of the St. Aubyn family, with the exception 
of the estates t ord and Swilly, the glebe, and ground purchased 
by Government. The first lease of land purchased by Govern- 
ment was in 1718, and by an act of the sixth of George 111. 
the ordnance board was empowered to purchase other lands, 
which were granted on lease for 21 years, renewable every 7 
years. Other additions were subsequently made to the Govern- 
ment lands. The steward of the manor holds court-leet and 
court-baron annually at Michaelmas, when a jury is sworn in 
to prevent nuisances, and the parish constables are also sworn. 
By the act of second William IV. Devonport was constituted 
a borough, with the privilege of returning two members to 
parliament, the right of voting extending to all ten pound 
householders within the entire parish of Stoke Damerell, and 
the township of Stonehouse Its first representatives, ( again 
elected in 1834,) were Sir E. Codrington and Sir George Grey. 
The town is governed by aboard of 150 commissioners, chiefly 
elected from among the inhabitants, vacancies being filled up 
once a year : among them are the lord and steward of the 
manor, the commissioner of the Dock Yard, the port-admiral, 
&e. The watching and lighting, paving and cleansing of the 
town, the management of the poor, and the granting of licences 
to porters, watermen, &c. are entrusted to them. The mayor, 
aldermen, and recorder of Plymouth and Saltash, and the 
manorial lords and stewards of Stonehouse, and East and West 
Anthony are also qualified to act on the licensing commission. 
A bench of resident magistrates hold petty sessions every 
Wednesday at the Town Hall. 

The Water Company was established by act 33rd of 
George III. It had been previously attempted to obtain water 
from the Plymouth leat, which, however, was not acceded to 
by the corporation, under the idea that the stream might be 
insufficient for so large a supply. The Devonport leat was 



70 DEVON PORT. 

consequently formed, and may be occasionally seen in close 
companionship with that of Plymouth, as it follows its winding 
course of thirty-seven miles from its source on Dartmoor. 
The reseivoir is on the higher part of Stoke, near the block- 
house, and an abundant supply of water is thence afforded, 
by extensive lines of cast-iron pipes, to Devonport, Stonehouse, 
the Dock Yard, Gun wharf, and other government works. 
Great improvements have been lately made under the direction 
of Mr. Hendel, engineer. 

The Workhouse is under the immediate management of a 
governor, permanent overseer, surgeon, matron, treasurer, 
school master and mistress, appointed by the commissioners. 
Besides the usual lodgings for the paupers, there is a convenient 
infirmary, and the governor and matron are resident within the 
walls. Schools are established for the instruction of the 
children of both sexes, the master and mistress receiving an 
annual salary from the parochial funds. The overseers ot the 
poor are elected annually. The permanent overstev has a 
salary. The weekly stipend allotted to the paupers is paid by 
the officers, with the assistance of some of the commissioners. 
Provisions for the consumption of the workhouse are supplied 
by contract. 

In 1815 was established the Devonport and Suokehouse 
Public Dispensary, supported by voluntary subscription. 
An annual subscriber of one guinea is entitled to recommend 
four patients every year. The building is a neat stone-fronted 
structure, situated in Chapel Street. The affairs of the insti- 
tution are directed by a president, vice-president, treasurer, 
and secretary ; with separate committees for Devonport and 
Stonehouse. 

The establishment of a Pauper Lunatic Asylum is highly 
honourable to the town. It is managed by a keeper and 
matron, subject to the governor of the workhouse, and a com- 
mittee of commissioners who meet every Tuesday. A surgeon 
attends daily. The charitable spirit of Devonport is also 
manifested in its Lying-in Charity, Female Benevolent ditto, 
Humane ditto, Dorcas ditto ; while the christ ; an zeal of the 
town is testified in its several societies for the promotion of 
religious knowledge at home and abroad. Here are also 
several Benefit Societies, one of them supported by an unusual 
number of members, and having a large capital in the public 
funds. 

The Public School for Poor Boys is conducted on the 
improved British system of education. The school-house 
adjoins St. John's chapel, and was erected by subscription in 
1809. The affairs are directed by a president, vice-president, 



BUPPLEMENT. 71 

treasurer, secretary, and visitors ; and an annual meeting is 
held tor auditing the accounts and appointing - officers. The 
apartment for the master adjoins the school-room, and strangers 
are allowed to inspect the establishment daily. 

The Public School, for the instruction of poor girls, was 
instituted on the first of March, 1799, when St. John's chapel 
was opened for public worship, and a subscription entered into 
to promote this institution. About 100 female children are 
educated in reading and working, and as a reward of industry, 
in writing. They are all clothed ; regularly attend divine 
worship ; and are instructed with the view of rendering them 
good servants and eligible inmates of families, The school- 
room is on the floor over the boys' school, where are also 
apartments for the mistress, and the occasional use of the 
ladies who superintend the charity. On Thursday mornings 
the school is open for public inspection. Its affairs are directed 
by a treasurer, secretary, and a committee of ladies and 
gentlemen. Both schools are supported by voluntary contri- 
bution. There is also a school belonging to the Baptist 
dissenters, supported by subscription, and a Methodist 
Sunday School, opened on Sunday, February 3rd, 1822. 
There are also other Sunday schools, where a vast number of 
children are instructed in reading, and the principles of religion, 
on the plan usually adopted by the benevolent individuals who 
devote their attention to those desirable objects. 

Devonport United Mathematical and Commercial 
School is a neat quadrangular structure, on the northern side 
of the Town Hall, erected principally by the artisans of H.M. 
Yard at this port, who in 1829 united themselves into a com- 
pany for the establishment of this admirable institution. There 
are 352 subscribers, each having the right to nominate two 
children. The building comprises two rooms, measuring 63ft. 
by 36ft. the lower being appropriated to the boys the upper 
to the girls. The management of the institution is vested in 
twenty -one trustees, and a committee of twenty-one, the latter 
being changed half-yearly. The education is based on the 
Borough-Road system, with certain modifications. The head- 
master is assisted by 2nd and 3rd masters. The female 
department is under the superintendence of 1st, 2nd, and 3rd 
governesses. The boys are educated in reading, writing, 
arithmetic, mathematics, geography, use of the globes, 
grammar, &c. at different rates, from 2d. to 6|d. per week. 
The females are educated in grammar, geography, use of the 
globes, history, writing, ciphering, plain and fancy needle- work, 
knitting, netting, &.c. at the rates of from 2d. to 5^d. per week. 
Between 300 and 400 boys, and about 200 girls are educated in 
this establishment. 



72 DEVONPORT. 

The Devonport Classical and Mathematical School, 
at the head of Princess Street, was opened in August 1821, and 
is supported by subscriptions of Proprietors. The selection of 
the most eminent masters, and the judicious arrangements 
throughout, cannot fail to ensure a continuance of that success 
which has already exceeded the expectations of its founders. 
The establishment is for 103 pupils. The Madras system of 
education being rigidly adheied to. The school is managed 
by a president, 3 vice-presidents, a treasurer, secretary, regis- 
trar, librarian, building surveyor, head master, 2nd and 3rd 
masters, a French master and assistant, writing and drawing 
masters. The officers, and a committee of 12 proprietors, are 
annually elected. 

The Royal Naval Annuitant Society, in Ker-Street, 
was established on the 9th of April, 1823, under the patronage 
of His present Majesty, for the purpose of securing annuities 
to the families of deceased naval officers — numbers unlimited. 
Its success has been unparalleled. It has a capital of £90,000 
vested under the provisions of the 10 Geo. 4. c. 56, and a 
handsome building was erected in 1832, by a subscription of 
only 4s. per share, where the society holds its meetings. 
Besides the patron, there are a vice-patron and actuary, 
presidents and vice-presidents, selected from distinguished 
admirals, generals, captains, and colonels of the navy and 
marines, trustees, treasurers, secretaries, and stewards, and 
a managing committee of fifty, elected from the members at 
large, 

The Banking Houses are as follows : — Devonport Bank 
(established 1807), in Fore-Street — Hodge and Norman, 
General Bank (established 1813), in Fore-Street — T. and 
H. J. Husband. 

The Union Savings Bank (established 1818), is situated 
in Chapel Street, trie present building having been erected 
1829. The affairs of the institution are under the direction of 
a patron, president, a body of trustees, and a committee of not 
less than 21 managers. The officers consist of a treasurer, 
secretary, and actuary. A meeting of the managing committee 
is held quarterly, and a statement of the accounts, funds, &c. 
is published annually, pursuant to a general meeting of the 
trustees and managers. On Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Satur- 
days, the office is open for public business. The advantages 
of the institution extend beyond these towns, by means of 
local receivers of deposits. The amount of deposits received 
from individuals, friendly societies, and charitable institutions ; 
the rate of interest allowed ; and the investment of the funds 
in the Bank of England, on Government security, fyc, are all 



SUPPLEMENT. 73 

in conformity to the provisions of the Acts of Parliament for 
the regulation of these institutions. 

Three Newspapers are published weekly, viz.— The 
Devonport Telegraph and Plymouth Chronicle, on 
Saturday morning, published by G. J. Soper and W. Richards, 
70, St. Aubyn-Street. The Devonport Independent and 
Plymouth and Stonehouse Gazette, on Saturday morning, 
by W. Byers, 32, Fore- Street. The West Devon Standard, 
on Wednesday, by G. W. Hearle, 111, Fore-Street. 

The Devonport Mechanics' Institution was established 
in 1825, when a fitting, inaugural discourse was delivered by 
the late George Harvey, Esq. of Plymouth. Its affairs are 
managed by a president, 4 vice-presidents, secretary, treasurer 
and librarian, elected annually ; and a committee of 24 (two- 
thirds of whom are chosen from the operatives,) elected half- 
yearly. The body of the society includes members for life, 
honorary members, senior and junior members (the latter 
being under 21 years of age), amounting at present to 110 
members, the senior class paying 3s. 3d. and the junior 2s. 2d. 
per quarter. Lectures are delivered on Monday evenings 
during the winter months. There are classes for the study of 
French, drawing, and chemistry . The library consists of about 
2800 volumes, viz. 1400 on science ; 300 literature; 500 his- 
tory ; 400 travels ; 176 periodicals. 



POST OFFICE. 



MAILS. ARRIVE. DEPART. 

London 7. 30 p.m. 6. 45 a.m. 

Bath 10. 45 p.m. 5. a.m. 

Cornish and North Devon, > 6# ^ 6# ^ 

via Calhngton > 

Falmouth via Torpoint 4. 30 p.m. 7. a.m. 

penny-post messengers. 

Stoke delivers twice a > 8# Q - 8 . 5 p.m. 

day S 

Torpoint 7. a.m. 

Cawsand & Milbrook 8. a.m. 
Plymouth,dispatched? 6# 45 A#M# n A#M# & 5# 45 p#M# 

3 times ) 

Plymouth received ... 6. 45 a.m. 3. p.m. & 7. 30 p.m. 

e 



DEVOKFORT. 



The Dock Yard. 



This public establishment, in a local sense alone, is a 
place of great importance ; the extent, wealth and popu- 
lation of the neighbourhood, being greatly dependent on 
it. 

It gives employment to upwards of 4000 persons in 
time of war, and to not less than 1500 during peace. 
The money paid weekly, in wages alone, cannot fall 
short of £5000 in war, and £1500 in peace. We believe 
we are within bounds in saying, that even in a period 
of profound tranquillity, at least seven thousand persons 
are wholly maintained by the dock-yard. 

But, however interesting these local considerations 
may be, reflections of a higher character suggest them- 
selves to most who visit a royal dock-yard. Englishmen 
are accustomed to look upon the navy as the main prop 
of British power ; and they regard our naval arsenals 
with associations which far surpass mere idle curiosity. 

Plymouth dock-yard was established during the reign 
of William and Mary (1691,) and is therefore of sub- 
sequent date to all other royal dock-yards, excepting 
that at Pembroke, which is of very recent formation, 
(1810). The first Government yards were founded at 
Deptford, Woolwich, and Portsmouth, by Henry VIII. 
in 1513 ; the next was at Chatham, in Queen Elizabeth's 
time, 1558 ; and then Sheerness, in the reign of Charles 
II. 1660. Thus it appears, that notwithstanding the 
advantages to this country, of possessing a dock-yard in 
so desirable a situation as Plymouth, it is only since 
1691 that this valuable arsenal has been instituted. 

Among the first considerations in determining the 
position of a dock-yard, it will naturally be asked 
whether there is a good harbour and sufficient depth of 
water for our largest men-of-war. In these respects, 
Plymouth is particularly adapted to the wants of a naval 



SUPPLEMENT. (J 

port. In IIamoaze, on the eastside of which Plymouth 
dock-yard is situated, 150 sail of the line may moor in 
safety ; and such is the depth of water, that the largest 
ship in the navy may come into harbour at any time of 
tide, with all her stores and guns on board, which is not 
the case at any other dock-yard in the kingdom. 
There is also a rise and fall of tide (amounting to about 
1 9 feet on the average spring tides), which is of great 
service in docking and undocking ships. These natural 
advantages, combined with the geographical position of 
the port, in relation to foreign powers, attach immense 
importance to the Plymouth yard. 

It has already been remarked that the dock-yard is 
situate on the east side of Hamoaze. Its extent is 75 
acres, 36 poles, of which, a small part only is the pro- 
perty of the crown; 65 acres, 2 roods, 23 poles, being 
held of Sir John St. Aubyn, on a lease of 21 years, 
subject to an annual rent of 30s. per acre, and a fine of 
£534. 4s. 6d. (or three years' value), on each renewal, 
which must be made every seven years, under a penalty 
of an entire forfeiture of the lease. The first lease 
granted by Sir William Maurice, in the year, 1 728, was 
for 40 acres only ; the remaining part was enclosed in 
1768. 

On entering the yard there is an official residence 
occupied by the director of police, a police force having 
been formed as a civil guard to the dock-yard, in May 
1834. The police force consists of 1 director, 3 inspec- 
tors, 3 sergeants, and 40 constables. An inspector, a 
sergeant, and 2 policemen, are always stationed at the 
gate, by whom every attention is paid to visitors. 

Application must be made in writing to the Captain 
Superintendent for permission to see the yard, which is 
never denied, except to foreigners, who cannot be 
allowed admission without an express order from the 
Admiralty. 

Permission having been obtained, strangers are re- 
quired to insert their names, residences, and professions, 
in a book kept for that purpose. e 2 



76 DEVONPORT. 

The first objects on entering the yard, are the chapel 
on the right hand, contiguous to the residence of the 
director of police, and the bell-post on the left. 

The chapel is a handsome, substantial building, of 
hewn stone, with a tower and set of bells. It is 100 
feet long, and 75 feet broad, and the extreme height of 
the tower 86 feet. The foundation was laid in 1814, 
and it was first opened for Divine service in November, 
1817. The interior is commodiously and elegantly 
fitted up for the officers and people belonging to the 
yard; also for the accommodation of the navy, in com- 
mission and in ordinary, as well as for the military in 
the garrison. 

The chapel was built at the expense of government, 
and is said to have cost £24,000. It occupies the site 
of the old chapel, built in the year 1700, under the 
interesting circumstances narrated in the following 
inscription which was over its southern entrance, and 
deserves to be recorded :— 

IN THE ELEVENTH YEAR 

OF THE REIGN OF KING WILLIAM THE THIRD 

ANNO DOMINI 1700 

THE CHAPEL WAS FOUNDED AND BUILT 

BY THE 

GENEROUS AND PIOUS CONTRIBUTIONS OF OFFICERS 

AND SEAMEN BELONGING 

TO A SQUADRON OF MEN-OF-WAR PAID OFF IN THIS YARD 

(AFTER TEN YEARS EXPENSIVE WAR WITH FRANCE) 

BEING PROPAGATED AND CARRIED ON 

BY THE INDUSTRY 

AND RELIGIOUS ENDEAVOURS OF 

GEORGE ST. LEO, ESQ. 

COMMISSIONER OF THE SAID YARD AND COMPTROLLER 

OF THE NAYV. 

In front of the police-director's residence is the bell, 
which announces the hours of commencing and termi- 
nating the periods of labour during the day, and strikes 
the quarters during the night, commencing after the 
hours of labour. This bell was taken from the Tonnant, 
an 84 gun-ship, captured at the battle of the Nile. It 



SUPPLEMENT. 77 

is said that this bell had been previously stolen from the 
famed church of St. John, in the island of Malta. The 
post upon which the bell stands is 60 feet high ; and of 
teak wood.* 

Between the police-director's house and the chapel 
is a small door leading into the master-shipwright's 
garden, where there is a large reservoir, to supply the 
dock-yard with water for ordinary purposes, and in 
case of fire. The reservoir (built in 1812), is elliptical, 
70 feet long, 60 feet broad, and 8 feet deep. Water 
was first brought into the yard in 1 797, but was not 
conveyed over the yard before 1812. As a precaution 
against fire, a most methodical arrangement has been 
made, which assigns to every individual belonging to 
the dock-yard his particular post and duty. 

In going down the yard the stranger will first pass 
along an avenue of trees, planted in 1816, on the left- 
hand side of which is a plot of ground tastefully laid out. 

To the right, on the north side of the main road, is 
the military guard-house, over which is the navy pay- 
office. Near the end of the path, on the left hand, is 
the surgery, where the workmen hurt in the perform- 
ance of their labours have the benefit of professional 
assistance ; and should they be prevented attending duty 
in consequence of injuries received, the surgeon, or 
assistant-surgeon, visits them at their homes, while they 
are humanely allowed a portion of their wages, until 
they are either recovered or placed on the superannu- 
ation list. 

The surgery communicates with the surgeon's resi- 
dence, which is in the row of houses appropriated to 
the principal affairs of the dock-yard. 



* The bell-post is a single stick of teak, once formipg the 
main-mast of an Indiaman. 

e 3 



78 



DEVONPORT. 



The following .are the residences of the officers, 
beginning at the north end of the terrace : — 



Surgeon 
Cashier 

Builder's Assistant 
Store Receiver 
Master Attendant 
Master Shipwright 
Capt. Superintendent 
(centre) 



Storekeeper 
Assistant Surgeon 
Captain Superintendent's 

Chief Clerks 
A ssistant to Master Attend ant 
Builder's Assistant 
Boatswain in the Yard 



The terrace has a paved promenade in front, shaded 
by trees. It is flanked by two wings ; one end of the 
south wing being used as the office of the Captain Super- 
intendent, the end of the other employed as a model- 
room, in connnexion with the London United Service 
Museum, 

The works of the yard are not visible from this spot, 
and every thing seems as tranquil as if little or nothing 
were going on ; and yet a dock-yard is a little busy 
world of manufactures, upon the skilful co-operation of 
which, the efficiency of the British marine depends. 
Here we see the noble art of ship-building in all its 
stages, the making of anchors, manufacturing of cables, 
construction of masts and yards, the making of sails, 
rigging of ships, building of boats, and making of pumps, 
capstans, &c. &c. All these branches are proceeding 
with admirable system, in exact proportion to the 
exigencies of the service, and to an extent dependent on 
the magnitude of the establishment. 

Plymouth yard has five slips for the purposes of 
building ; three single docks, and one double ditto, for 
carrying on repairs ; and spacious storehouses, with 
efficient workshops, for the purposes of equipment, &c. 
We wish the reader to understand the general capa- 
bilities of the department, that he may attach due 
importance to its details, brought under his notice in 
walking round it. From the end of the terrace, in front 
of the officer's residences, are two roads, one on the left, 
leading towards the central part of the yard, and one 



SUPPLEMENT. 79 

(a little to the right) by a flight of steps, to the north 
end of the yard. The latter is the preferable path, as it 
takes a direction which renders it unnecessary to walk 
over much of the same ground twice. 

Descending this flight of steps, the stranger finds 
himself at the north end of the dock-yard, which is 
almost wholly set apart to the service of ships in dock. If 
he turn to the right, at the bottom of the steps, he will pass 
a new steam-engine house in progress of building, 
when we went to press. We understood there were to 
be two engines of 20-horse power each, one for pumping 
the docks, the receding of the tide not being sufficient 
to leave them dry when ships are grounded upon the 
blocks ; and the other engine for driving a turning lathe, 
circular saws, grinding-stones, trenail and screw-cutting 
machines, till-hammer in the adjoining smithery, and 
for drawing timber up the inclined plane adjoining. 

In front of the engine-house are two kilns for boiling 
timber, a process commonly employed to render the 
plank supple, so that it may be made to coincide with 
the curved form of the body of a ship. 

A little beyond the engine-house is the North Smithery, 
and at a short distance is the north boundary wall of the 
yard, against which, from the bottom of the brow to the 
water's edge, are the locksmiths' and plumbers' shops ; 
also the stonemasons' yard, carvers' shop, and a sale-room 
where old stores are sold by Dutch auction. 

The docks will be best seen by walking round the 
jetties. It has been already remarked that there are 
three single docks, and a double dock. The first is 
called the " North New Dock,' 7 constructed in an 
excavation of solid rock. Water was first let in in 1 789 ; 
His Majesty George III. was present. The following 
are the dimensions of the dock : — 

Feet Jne. 
Length from the gate to the top of the slope. • 254 9 

Ditto bottom 214 8 

Breadth at the piers 56 7 

Ditto in the clear at the gates...... «., 56 4 



80 DEVONPORT. 

Feet Ins. 

Breadth in the extreme . 97 

Depth 27 8 

Declivity 1 11 

Bottom of the dock below low water mark . . 2 

Depth of water in it at ordinary spring tides 19 6 

Ditto extraordinary ditto 22 6 

The second is the " Union Dock," the next the 
"Double Dock," and lastly, the "South Dock," the 
entrance to which is from a basin 190 feet by 250 feet, 
occupied by boats employed on services afloat. The 
channel into the basin is 50 feet wide, situate between 
two jetties. At these, as at every other jetty, there is 
sufficient depth of water, at low tide, for the largest ship 
of war. 

In passing from the " Union" to the " Double Dock," 
there is a landing place called " North Stairs," for the 
accommodation of the Captain Superintendent of the 
Yard, and commissioned officers. Here is also a small 
waiting room, for the convenience of officers who are 
liable to be occasionally detained there. The north 
dock is the only one open, all the others are covered 
with enormous roofs, to protect the ships from the 
weather, and to shelter the workmen employed upon 
them. 

Having passed the South Dock on the left hand, 
leaving the basin on the right, a splendid quadrangular 
series of storehouses present themselves. They stand 
on a piece of ground measuring 480 feet from east to 
west, 300 feet from north to south, and are three stories 
high. On the northern side are the entrances to the 
" rigging house" and a sail loft" and the store for 
"fitted rigging and blocks." The appropriation of every 
department is legibly written over each door. The 
storehouses bear distinguishing numbers, and are en- 
tirely under the charge of a storekeeper ; but the other 
parts of the building are under the superintendence of 
distinct officers. 



SUPPLEMENT. 81 

The visitor had better take a general survey of the 
yard before he goes into the storehouses. On the 
eastern side of the quadrangle is another entrance to the 
store for "fitted rigging and blocks," also a storehouse 
for " boatswains' " " carpenters' " and " gunners' stores." 
There are likewise on this side of the building, an 
entrance to a court containing "iron ballast, and coal for 
steam-vessels" and an entrance to a " lot yard, and junk 
sheds." In front of the gateway to the lot yard is a 
weigh bridge, used to determine the weight of heavy 
articles from one to ten tons. The spacious jetty 
between the storehouses and the water side is occupied 
by the anchor-wharf, excepting the south part, where 
there is a "graving slip" used for vessels requiring only 
such casual work as may be performed in the interval 
between two tides. Some idea may be formed of the 
demand for anchors for the navy, when it is stated that 
a first rate is supplied with eight anchors, namely, five, 
each weighing 95 cwt. one of 21 cwt. one of 10 cwt, 
and one of 5 cwt. 

On the south side of the quadrangle are the entrances 
to two other stores; one for " cordage and ships returned 
stores" the other for " cables, worn rope, lead, and 
miscellaneous stores" and lastly, on the eastern side of 
the quadrangle, is the "present use store for the yard 
services." 

On the road-way, which passes north and soutli 
through the centre of the quadrangle, is a storehouse set 
apart for sets of sails, appropriated to different classes 
of ships. This building has one story more than those 
by which it is surrounded, although the extreme height 
is the same. Every part is composed of iron and stone ; 
the girders, joists, doors, sashes and frames, are of cast 
iron, executed in a style of peculiar neatness. The roof, 
also of cast iron, is worthy of notice, from the lightness 
of its construction. The floors are of Yorkshire stone, 
and the geometrical staircase of moor-stone, projecting 
6 feet clear from the wall, is much to be admired. The 



82 DEV0NP0HT. 

hand-rail is 1 70 feet in length, and so neatly manufactured 
as not to exhibit any trace whatever of a joint. The 
expense of this storehouse has been estimated at £l 5,000. 

The communication between the storehouses is pre- 
served by neat stone bridges, with balconies, which cross 
the road at each end. Immediately in front of the 
entrance to the depository for " cordage and ships 9 returned 
stoics" is a wooden swing bridge, crossing a canal, 
nearly sixty feet wide, and 820 feet long, at the end of 
which are the boat-house pond, (about 80 feet wide, and 
360 feet long), slips, and sheds. On the south side of 
the canal is the " New Ground" principally devoted to 
the building department; and it is here that the five 
building slips are situated. There are three within a 
very few yards of each other, each suited to the building 
of a first-rate ; and all of them are roofed. The lower 
part of a wooden building, near the canal entrance, is 
kept for a chain-cable store. Chain cables are not 
manufactured by Government, but supplied by contract. 
They are officially received at Woolwich dock-yard, 
where their strength is tested by a machine. 

Pursuing a direct line from the swing bridge, we pass 
three building slips on the right hand, covered with 
immense roofs. Housing No. 1, is 263 feet long, 126 
feet broad, and 67 feet high; there are 10,245 panes of 
glass in it ; and the estimated value of the whole is 
£13,000. There are here also two supplying kilns in 
front of the slips for boiling plank. Behind the kilns 
are the saw pits. 

We now recommend the stranger to continue his route 
in front of the building slips, until he arrives at the mast- 
house, which stands upon a slope, descending into a 
large basin 230 yards long (of irregular breadth), com- 
municating with the harbour, for the purpose of floating 
masts and yards between this department and ships 
afloat. In walking through the mast-house it will be 
seen that there is another slope and basin, on the eastern 
side. The masts and yards launched into this basin, 



SUPPLEMENT. 83 

arc, for the most pent, those not wanted for immediate 
service. These spais are kept wholly under water, it 
having been found from experience that immersion is 
favourable to their preservation. The inner pond is 
about 200 yards long, and 63 yards broad. 

The scientific enquirer and lover of mechanics, may 
here find much to speculate upon and delight in. The 
various kinds of foreign fir timber vary greatly in value, 
strength, durability, and dimensions ; and the modes of 
p reservation, before they are applied to the purposes of 
mast-making, are questions of the first importance. A 
complete set of masts and yards for a first-rate, has been 
estimated at not less than £4,000. Again, the principles 
of proportioning the forms of spars to their respective 
lengths, and of combining the several lengths together, 
so as to form a whole, are considerations of great moment. 
A little beyond the mast-house, are two more building 
slips, which complete the total number (five) in this 
dock-yard. We are now at the southern boundary wall, 
contiguous to a part of Devonport, known by the name 
" Mutton Cove." The visitor will be repaid for the 
trouble of walking to the water side, where he will find 
a small terrace, kept in very neat order, and much 
frequented, as a quiet retreat, by the families residing 
in the yard. There is a delightful view from this spot, 
of the Sound, Mount Edgcumbe, the Royal William 
Victualling-Yard, Mount Wise, and the Harbour. 

On leaving this terrace, we return towards the head 
of the last building slip, whence a rocky mount, covered 
with plants and vegetation, attracts notice. Strangers, 
accompanied by a policeman, are indulgently permitted 
to ascend to the top, where there is a small gold and. 
silver fish pond, a fountain, and summer-house. This 
place is called " King's Hill," from the circumstance of 
George III. having once visited that spot during the 
excavating (or levelling) of the yard ; when he was 
heard to lament the possible removal of a spot com- 
manding so fine a prospect of the harbour and neigh- 
bourhood. 



84 DEVONPORT. 

Near King's Hill, in a north-east direction, are the 
rope-houses. The buildings are 1,200 feet long, built 
of stone and iron, to render them fire-proof, the former 
ropery having been destroyed by fire. 

Near the ropery is the boat-house, where boats are 
being built and repaired, and where they are stored to 
meet the demands of the service.* 

At the end of the boat-house slip is a stone bridge 
over the canal, with the south smithery, capstan house, 
and mould loft, near at hand. 

The smithery is worth visiting if heavy work happen 
to be going forward, such as manufacturing a large 
anchor. The largest size anchors weigh about 96 cwt. 
and it will take 20 men 36 days, working 10 hours a 
day, to make an anchor of that size. It is a curious 
sight to strangers to see the operation of what is called 
the* Hercules, which is a weight of 8 cwt. made to 
descend with a force supposed to be equivalent to a 
blow of nearly 8 tons. There is a great deal of heavy 
work required for ship service, as may be easily supposed, 
when it is stated that the iron knees alone of one of our 
first-rates (Hibemia's), are said to have weighed 59 ton 
8 cwt. ! 

The capstan house is a work-shed in which capstans, 
windlasses, and tops, are made, and chain-pump gear 
fitted. There are single and double capstans ; the 
former for small vessels, the latter for ships from the 
size of a frigate, upwards. A double capstan, made in 
the simplest manner, for a first-rate, is worth about £100. 
The mould loft is not accessible without express 
permission. It is set apart for preparing the moulds, 
and furnishing such information for the " timber-con- 
verter/ 7 as will enable him to provide every piece of 

* Some years ago, Mr. Johns, one of the foremen of the yard, 
introduced a new principle of boat-building, making the bottoms 
of two thicknesses of planking, instead of constructing them with 
timbers and planking. The planks take a diagonal direction, both 
externally and internally, those on the outside being placed in 
contrary direction to those which form the inside lining. 



SUPPLEMENT. 85 

timber used for a ship, according to the required form 
and dimensions — one of the most difficult and important 
duties connected with practical ship-building. The 
drawings of ships ordered to be built are furnished to 
the officer superintending the " New Works." The 
designs are usually drawn upon a scale of J of an inch 
to a foot, which is 1-48 part of the actual size of the ship. 
It is necessary, therefore, to transfer the lines of the 
drawings upon a floor, in order to make moulds which 
will correspond with the actual form and dimensions of 
the ship which is to be built. In viewing the mould loft, 
little more is to be seen than a spacious floor, covered 
with curved lines, which intersect each other in various 
directions ; and to any but a technical eye, presenting 
an appearance of great confusion. 

Opposite the entrance to the mould loft, are sheds 
stored with timber, laid apart for seasoning. From the 
roadway, between the mould loft -and timber sheds, may 
be seen, in a southern direction, the stone bridge, which 
crosses the mast-house back shop. In the opposite 
direction is the other stone bridge which we crossed on 
leaving the boat house. 

Should the stranger contemplate visiting the store- 
houses, rigging loft, &c. he must retrace his path over 
this latter bridge, and turn to the left as soon as he gets 
to the north side of the canal. 

The storehouses are all numbered : — 

No. 1 — on the eastern side of the quadrangle, is set 
apart as a "present use store for yard service. 7 ' The 
different stores used in building and repairing ships, 
(most of which are supplied by contract) are here 
arranged in admirable order, and dealt out to the work- 
men on their producing demand — notes signed by the 
proper officers. 

No. 2 — storehouse is for " cables, worn rope, lead, 
and miscellaneous articles." 

No. 3 — for " cordage and ships' returned stores" is 
generally a busy scene, as ships are continually returning 

F 



86 DEV0NP0RT. 

some description of stores, none of which can be received 
by the storekeeper without being previously surveyed by 
a professional officer, in order to ascertain whether they 
are decayed, repairable, or serviceable. 

No. 4 — is for the issue of "carpenters ', boatswains', 
and gunners' stores/ 7 in fact, it is a present size store for 
the fleet. 

No. 5 — is for sails, and for "feted rigging and blocks." 

No. 6 — is inclusively for "feted rigging." 

In the sail loft at the west end of the north side of 
the quadrangle are sails of every description, (made in 
the dock-yard) from the smallest boat-sail to the largest 
for a man-of-war. Colours and signal flags of all kinds 
are likewise made in the dock-yard; but neither the 
canvass (for sails), nor the buntin (for colours), is of 
government manufacture. Both are supplied by contract. 
Canvass, articles of ironmongery in general, bar iron, 
iron bolt-staves, paper, oil, pitch, tar, glue, &c. &c. are 
supplied by contract. 

Blocks, copper and mixed metal articles, are manu- 
factured at Portsmouth, and sent to this yard. 

In the rigging loft, at the east end of the north side 
of the quadrangle, rigging for the various classes of ships 
is cut to its proper length and prepared to meet the 
demands of the service. The cordage made use of is 
supplied from the dock-yard ropery. 

On leaving the storehouses, we may take the route 
along the south side of the south dock, adjoining the 
basin. A flight of steps will be seen from the head of 
this dock, and just above them the house occupied by 
the Captain Superintendent. The buildings to the 
north of the steps are the house carpenters and joiners 7 
shops, hand-pump and block shops, turnery and " loan 
tool store." The building, on the south side of the 
steps, includes the public offices, noticed before we 
descended the steep flight of steps which led us, on 
first coming into the yard, to the docking district. At 
the top of these steps is a road of gentle declivity, leading 
towards the £ate t 



SUPPLEMENT. 87 



The Gun- Wharf 



is an important department of the naval establishment, 
situated on the margin of Hamoaze, north of the Dock 
Yard, from which it is divided by the street leading to 
North Corner landing place. The area of ground with- 
in the walls is nearly five acres, held by government 
on a tenure similar to that of the Dock Yard. This 
depot was formed above a century since, and the buildings 
which were planned by Sir John Vanburg,* who was 
attached to the ordnance department, are constructed in 
the substantial style which distinguished the works of that 
artist. The entrance from the town is in Ordnance Street, 
from which an avenue of trees is continued to the front of 
the officer's houses. Opposite to those is the capacious 
reservoir, from which the establishment is supplied with 
water, and immediately adjoining a flight of steps leads to 
the armoury, and other buildings in the lower part. 
These steps and a large portion of the site of the gun- 
wharf, are hewn out of schistos rock, which in some places 
is excavated to the depth of thirty feet. The storehouses, 
which contain the armoury, are lofty buildings, filled 
with various instruments of destruction ; vast quantities 
of muskets, pistols, and cutlasses, are deposited in chests, 
or arranged in racks, and along the walls, in the form of 
stars, circles, and crescents. Near these storehouses is 
the blacksmith's shop and other buildings, used as deposi- 
tories for gun-carriages and the implements of the field- 



* Who is not acquainted with the humourous distich written 
as an epitaph on Vanburgh 1 



1 Lie heavy on him earth, for he 
Laid many a heavy load on thee 1" 



F 2 



88 DEVONPORT, 

train. The intervals between the different edifices are 
occupied by piles of ordnance, belonging to the ships in 
Hamoaze harbour, with their respective names painted 
on the cannon. There are also large quantities of shot, 
arrayed in pyramidical heaps, marked with the number 
contained in each pile. The immense quantity of stores 
seen here, together with the armoury, form a sight worthy 
attention. Like the Dock-Yard, the Gun-Wharf is 
inclosed by a high wall. Persons desirous of viewing it 
must make application to the storekeeper. 



89 

STOKE. 

STRANGER'S GUIDE. 

Leaving Devonport, by its north eastern gate, the 
stranger may proceed Plymouth-ward to Stoke Church 
and the Military Hospital, on the bank of Stonehouse 
creek ; he may pass up the ascending meadow on his 
left to Tajnar Terrace, a respectable row of houses, 
commanding a superb view of Hamoaze and England's 
" wooden walls :" or he may take a mid-way course 
into the body of Stoke village. 

The inclosed Ionic range, on the high ground facing 
the south is Cornwall 'Terrace : the descending line of 
detached residences below, is known as the Albemarle 
Villas. 

Taking a northerly direction we pass along Trafalgar- 
row, and shortly arrive at Upper Stoke, through which 
proceeds the turnpike-road to Tavistock. 

In approaching Higher Stoke, 

Belmont House, 

the residence of John Norman, Esq. will arrest the 
stranger's attention. Its Doric tetrastyle, and lateral 
portico in ant is, give external dignity ; while an interior 
of corresponding classicality receives additional richness 
from a choice collection of pictures. The house is from 
the designs of Mr. Foulston, who was the architect also 
of another select example of domestic architecture in the 
neighbourhood, viz. Travers House, builtfor R. Bromley, 
Esq. The usual nursery toy of Cockney origin, deno- 
minated a " Villa/' is brought into wholesome ridicule 
by the two residences just alluded to, which really are 
" Villas," in a sense that Meca?nas himself would have 
admitted. The eastern part of this extensive suburb is 
also distinguished by the architectural pretensions of 
numerous residences, lately built, or now erecting. At 
the back of Higher Stoke is the f 3 



90 STOKE. 

Block House, 

of which note was taken in the introductory survey.—- 
It is important as a redoubt, defended by fosse and 
drawbridge, equally calculated for defence and annoy- 
ance, and valuable as a land mark to ships entering 
the Sound. But its chief recommendation to the lover 
of the picturesque is the perfect and extensive panorama 
of which it forms the centre. The circular reservoir at 
a short distance east, is that of the Devonport Water 
Company, supplied by a stream whicli traverses a 
winding course of 37 miles, from the springs on Dart- 
moor, and supplying, by means of iron pipes, the towns 
of Devonport and Stonehouse, together with the Dock- 
Yard, Gun wharf, and other government establishments. 

Stoke Church. 

Regarding Stoke Church, as the Cathedral Metro- 
politan of Stoke Damerel; having in its diocese an 
important borough, two great villages, several sub- 
chapels episcopal, and a population of 40,000, the 
stranger may be excused for giving that wonder to the 
meanness of this building that he has previously bestowed 
upon the splendours of Canterbury and York ! 

The living is a Rectory in the archdeaconry of Totnes, 
diocese of Exeter, and in the patronage of Sir John 
St. Aubyn, who inherits the manor from Sir William 
Morice, to whom the advowson of the rectory was 
granted by Charles II. 

The burying-ground, though very extensive, has not 
been found adequate to the mortality of the increased 
population of the parish ; in consequence of which, a 
piece of ground adjoining the old church-yard has been 
enclosed and consecrated as a cemetery. 

Close to the church is the 

Military Hospital, 

erected 1797, on the northern side of Stonehouse creek, 
immediately opposite the Royal Naval Hospital. The 



stranger's guide. 91 

situation is salubrious and airy, declining with a gentle 
slope to the water's edge. The buildings and ground 
attached are surrounded by a lofty wall, through which 
there is a land entrance on the north. There are also 
a commodious landing-place and receiving-house, on 
the creek. The south front of the edifice (which is 
built of grey marble,) is imposing from its arcade of 
forty-one arches which support a terrace in front of the 
upper windows, and afford shelter to the promenade 
below. The wards are spacious, lofty, and well ven- 
tilated ; and the greatest precautions have been taken to 
render the establishment complete in every respect. 
500 patients have been accommodated at one time. 



92 



STOKE. 



SU PPLEMENT. 



Dissenting Chapels :— Wesleyan Methodist Chapel, 
Tavistock Street ; Providence Chapel, (Independents) Home- 
Park Buildings. 

Stoke Public School for Poor Boys, established about 14 
years since by voluntary subscription, for educating 100 Boys. 

This establishment is greatly indebted to the zeal and 
liberality of the late Colonel Littlejohn, who gave a donation 
of £150, for the purpose of building a new School House 
capable of containing the same number of girls in addition. 
Here is a Provident Society, the great object of which is to 
promote economy among the Poor, who are encouraged to make 
weekly deposits for their own relief, either towards rent or 
clothing, which is laid out for them in the winter months. — 
A portion of the free subscriptions is appointed to the supply 
of clothing to the aged and infirm, whose circumstances will 
not admit of their subscribing. 



03 

MORICE TOWN. 
STRANGER'S GUIDE. 



Leaving Devonport by its north gate, or descending 
westward from Stoke towards Hamoaze, we find our- 
selves in the third division of Stoke Damerel parish, 
called Morice Town, or New Passage, the latter name 
being derived from the comparatively recent establish- 
ment of the ferry across Hamoaze to Torpoint on the 
Cornish shore opposite. The town includes several 
regular streets of small houses, and two or three 
dissenting chapels ; but contains nothing worthy the 
stranger's notice unless it be a remarkably fine Slate 
Quarry, and one or two neat cottage residences in the 
vicinity. Here are several wharfs, warehouses, coal- 
yards, lime kilns, &c. and extensive brewing establish- 
ments, one of them entitled the Artillery Brewery, and 
belonging to Messrs. Williams and Co. of London. 

The Powder Magazine, 

at Keyham Point, a short distance north of Morice 
Town, was erected in 1784, and is, of course, provided 
with every possible guard against lire and lightning. 

The buildings cover a space of about 5 acres. There 
are houses for the officers belonging to the establishment, 
and a neat row of cottages appropriated to the use of 
the foreman and senior workmen. During the last war 
these magazines were found inadequate to the wants of 
the service, and 5 line of battle ships were fitted as 
floating magazines. II. M. ships which rendezvous or 
touch at the port receive their ammunition from this 
depot, as do the king's land forces ; together with the 
several yeomanry corps stationed in the four western 



94 MORICE TOWN. 

counties ; also the coast guard stations from Dorsetshire 
to the Land's end, and in many parts of Wales. Since 
the abolition of the Laboratory on Mount Wise, the 
whole of the flannel cartridges issued to his majesty's 
ships have been filled and prepared at these magazines. 
The Royal Powder Works at St. Budeaux, situate about 
1 \ miles further up Hamoaze, on the same side, are 
connected with this establishment, and receive all 
damaged powder from it for the purpose of being 
restored and made serviceable, when it is again returned 
to Keyham Point for issue to his majesty's ships. The 
extreme westerly position of these magazines renders 
them of great importance. 



95 



TOR POINT BRIDGE. 



STRANGER'S GUIDE. 

Cuunttes, like players, "have their exits and their 
entrances ;" and Morice Town on the one side of 
Ilamoaze, and Torpoint on the other, are the beginning 
or the end of Devon and Cornwall, as the traveller 
happens to be proceeding east or west. A common 
boat-ferry was established according to act in 1791, by 
the manorial lords of Stoke Damerel and Antony, and 
the passage became so frequented in 1828, that an 
association was formed of the neighbouring nobility and 
gentry, to effect some improved mode of communication 
between the shores. A steam boat of peculiar con- 
struction, but guided by a rudder, was first put upon 
trial, and failed. Application was then made to 
J. M. Rendel, Esq. engineer, who has left nothing to 
be desired on the part of his employers. Mr. Rendel 
is now justly celebrated as the inventor of the steam and 
chain boat bridge, which has been so successfully applied 
at the Torpoint, Saltash, Dartmouth, and other ferries 
in distant parts of the kingdom. The Torpoint bridge- 
boat resembles in general outline a flat-bottomed barge 
55 feet long and 50 feet wide. It is divided lengthways 
into three compartments, the two side ones being for the 
accommodation of the passengers, horses, carriages, and, 
of course, every description of cattle and vehicle. The 
central division is occupied by the steam engines and 
machinery. Lifting and falling platforms, 25 feet long 
and 10 feet broad, are hung at each end of both the side 
divisions, to effect every facility of egress and ingress, 
so that horsemen and the passengers, and drivers of 
coaches, may with perfect safety drive on and off, and 
retain their seats during the passage, which is made in 8 



96 TORPOINT BRIDGE. 

minutes, the width of the river being here 3500 feet. 
The bridge is impelled by two small steam engines, 
operating on two fixed chains, which extend across the 
river from shore to shore. The principle of motion 
therefore, is much the same as that of an ordinary wheeled 
vehicle, the ground below in the one instance being 
answered by the chains above in the other. These chains 
also serve (as must be obvious) to steady the vessel, 
and to effect the safe and unerring passage of the boat, 
notwithstanding exposure to strong winds and a current 
of 4 miles an hour. The chains sink so precipitately at 
each end of the boat as to prevent any interruption to 
the passage of the largest ships over them. The bridge 
is neither affected by weather nor darkness, and is 
capable of conveying, at one time,- 4 carriages with 4 
horses to each, and a great number of foot passengers. 
The principle has proved most economical as regards 
power, superintendence, and repairs ; and as an instance 
of the good effected, suffice it to say, that, during the 
first twelve months of operation the travelling was more 
than doubled. The Cornish mail coach which before 
commenced its morning and completed its evening 
journey at Torpoint, now conducts its passengers 
undisturbed from or to Elliott's Hotel in Devonport. 
The managing officers are appointed annually by the 
company, who are lessees of the old ferry, and whose 
liberality and public spirit have been additionally testified 
by the building of a second bridge, which either now is ; 
or shortly will be, in operation. 



97 



TORPOINT BRIDGE. 



SUPPLEMENT. 



In connexion with the Torpoint Boat-E ridge may be 
mentioned Mr. Rendel's plan for a new Turnpike Road, from 
Devonport to St. Austle through JLooe and Fowey, a printed 
report upon which, to the subscribers for the survey, illustrated 
by apian (on the scale of 3 inches to a mile) was issued in 
January, 1835. Besides the great comparative avoidance of 
hills, the saving in distance compared with the present road 
through Liskeard and Lostwithiel would exceed 8 miles. 
These and many other advantages detailed in the report 
are such as to make us hope that the spirit and means of the 
public may second the skill of the engineer, and bring (to 
use the reporter's words) "the two most improtant public 
harbours of Plymouth and Falmouth nearly two hours nearer 
to each other, while a coast proverbially exposed to an enemy 
will be immediately opened to the military depots of Devonport 
and Plymouth." 

A bridge similar to that of Torpoint was established at 
Saltash by a company of proprietors, under act of parliament 
in 1832, there having been previously a common boat ferry. 
The river here is 1200 feet wide and 90 feet deep, with a current 
of 5 miles an hour. A new road is now making by the 
Turnpike Trustees to the Saltash Bridge, by which many 
laborious hills are avoided, the distance from Devonport 
reduced 2 miles, and from Plymouth nearly one mile. The 
new road will be not less remarkable for the beautiful prospects 
unfolded than for its advancement of the agricultural and 
commercial interests of the vicinity. To the liberality of J . T. 
Coryton, Esq. of Pentillie Castle and *J. H. Rodd, Esq, of 
Trebartha Hall, this useful work is chiefly attributable. 



99 



VISITOR'S GUIDE 



TO PLYMOUTH SOUND, BREAKWATER, 
EDDYSTONE LIGHTHOUSE, &c. 



Plymouth Sound has been already generally described 
in pages 2, 4, and 8. Boats may be hired at the 
Barbican, or Sandy-cove at the foot of the Hoe, and 
watermen are usually in waiting at the Royal Hotel. 
During the summer months, a steam-boat makes frequent 
excursions to the Eddystone rocks, and for further 
instructions concerning a visitto the Lighthouse strangers 
should apply at the Custom House, where they will 
meet with the master of the Eddystone boat. 

St. Nicholas, or, as it is sometimes called "Drake s 
Island, about a mile from the main land, is guarding, as 
it were, the mouth of the Tamar . It isstrongly fortified and 
garrisoned by a detachment of troops from the Plymouth 
Citadel. The landing-place is on the north side, and the 
rock is ascended by a flight of steps through a vaulted 
passage. The area of the island is not more than three 
acres, a large proportion of which is occupied by the 
fortifications, and buildings necessary for the accommo- 
dation of the troops. Leaving this place, and proceeding 
in a southerly direction through the Sound, our attention 
is vociferously demanded to the 

Breakwater. 

We say " vociferously," for the rolling billows of the 
English Channel are not less audibly than visibly mani- 
fest, as they exhibit their continuous mile of foamy anger 
at the effective daring of human power, which seems, 
at length, to have substantiated Canute's command to 
the ocean, " Thus far shalt thou come, and no further !" 
The pride of the old world is now constantly receiving 

g 2 



100 BREAKWATER. 

check in the mare extraordinary works of the new, — 
not, as regards the poetry of art, — but, unquestionably, 
as respects the practice of constructive science. The 
abstract demands of mere colossal magnitude are to be 
answered by means which no country, under a liberal 
and christian government, would desire to see available. 
It is the quantity of mind employed in the Plymouth 
Breakwater and Eddystone Lighthouse, which renders 
them far more astonishing, and as much more truly 
estimable, than the great Egyptian Pyramid, or the 
Alexandrian Pharos. 

Nothing had been done to improve the Sound and 
render it a secure anchorage-place for ships of war until 
the winds and tides were suitable either for going into 
Hamoaze, or proceeding to sea, before the year 1806, when 
Messrs. Rennie and Whidby were directed to make the 
necessary surveys. On their reports his Majesty's order 
in council was issued, bearing date the 22nd day of 
June, 1811, for commencing the work on the plan pro- 
posed by the aforesaid gentlemen, and on the 12th of 
August, 1812, the first stone was laid with great pomp 
and ceremony. The whole length of the Breakwater is 
eight hundred and fifty fathoms, its eastern end extending 
about sixty fathoms from the St. Carlos Rocks, and its 
western about three hundred from the Shovel. The 
centre has a straight direction ; the ends inclining to the 
middle part in an angle of about one hundred and 
twenty degrees. Breadth at the base 120 yards — at the 
top 16; length at the base 1760 yards— at the top 
(including the two arms) 1700; average height 14 yards ; 
slope of the work towards the sea, three horizontal to 
one perpendicular ; towards the land, one and a half 
horizontal to one perpendicular. The marble of which 
it is formed is obtained from the quarries in Catwater, 
thrown in promiscuously, in blocks of several tons each. 
The estimate of its probable expense, at the commence- 
ment, was £1,171,100, and, it is calculated to shelter 
with facility 50 sail of the line. 



S 1 It A N C E B 's GUIDE. 1 I 

Fhe summit is paved with square blocks of stone, 
rendering it a fine promenade, 48 feet in width ; and 
near the centre of the side towards the land a square 
projection is made, on the three sides of which are 
convenient landing-steps, facing east, west, and north, 
offering a sheltered debarkation at any wind. On this 
projection stands a flag-staff, from which the British 
ensign is displayed on public days ; and whence floated 
the royal standard in the summer of 1824, in honour of 
a visit from his present Majesty when Duke of Clarence. 
The initials of the royal visitor, with the date, &c. are 
engraven on a stone of the Breakwater, as a memorial 
of the event. Another stone is engraven in honour of 
Lord Melville and the board of admiralty, who visited 
the Breakwater shortly after. 

The utility of the Breakwater has been long apparent, 
and its effects have answered the most sanguine expec- 
tations. Indeed, so early as the end of the second year 
from its commencement, when about 800 yards only of 
the central part were visible at low-water, there was a 
striking alteration experienced in the state of the Sound ; 
for the swell at the head of it was so much broken down, 
that the fishermen were no longer able, as before, to form 
a correct opinion of the state of the sea on the outside 
of the port. On one occasion 200 sail of vessels, driven 
in by tempest, found protection within its extended arms. 

The strength of the work was put to a severe test in a 
tremendous hurricane on the night of the 9th January, 
1817, when the water rose six feet beyond what is usual 
at spring-tides, and his majesty's ships Jaspar and 
Telegraph were driven on shore in the sound and lost. 
On examining the Breakwater after the storm had sub- 
sided, it was found that about 200 yards in length, and 
30 in width, of the upper stratum of the finished part, 
had been displaced by the violence of the sea. 

The severest trial, however, took place on the 22nd and 
23rd of November, 1824, when the whole southern coast 
of England was bestrewed with wreck and desolation. 

g 3 



102 BREAKWATER. 

The tide rose to the frightful height of 26 feet 2 inches, 
while the mean height of its rise at spring-tides is 
usually only 18 feet. The greater part of the surface 
of the Breakwater was on that occasion completely over- 
turned, and huge stones of from two to five tons each 
were carried from the outer and deposited on the inner 
slope. The centre and western end suffered most, and 
the landing place was destroyed. It is, however, con- 
sidered that the advantage gained to the work by the 
shock, causing the blocks to be more firmly settled down, 
will more than compensate for the derangement of the 
surface. On the whole, therefore, this occurrence may 
be considered as a most satisfactory proof of the utility 
and durability of this great national barrier. It need 
hardly be remarked, that those liabilities to injury, to 
which such a work as the Breakwater is subject while 
in progress, will not exist to anything like an equal 
extent when the work is completed. In the hurricane 
of January, 1828, not a single stone of the finished part 
of the work was moved from its position. 

The fears entertained by some, that the erection might 
ultimately be detrimental to the Sound and Devonport 
harbour, by causing an increased deposit of mud and 
silt, are satisfactorily proved to be groundless, no per- 
ceptible alteration having taken place in the depth of 
water at either of those places, or in the strength or set 
of the tides. 

To insure a correct general idea of the form and 
substance of the Breakwater a small plan, fig. 1, and 
a section to a larger scale, fig. 2, are adjoined. 

At Staddon Point, opposite the eastern end of the 
Breakwater, a quay is erected as a landing-place, for 
the accommodation of boats taking in water for vessels 
in the sound. At a short distance from this point, is 
Bovisand Reservoir, constructed in a hollow between 
two hills. It is supplied from an excellent stream ; and 
is capable of containing from ten to twelve thousand 
tuns of water, a sufficient quantity to furnish fifty sail of 



Fxgl 

P L AN . 

&tc£j-c'o£t 




One -Mite in -Zettgtck 




H 

en 
i 



Hi • 



stranger's guide. 103 

the line. The water is conveyed in iron pipes to the 
landing-place, and thence on board the ships. The 
expense of its construction was £l 6,000. The establish- 
ment is under the direction of the Victualling-Board. 
Near the reservoir resides the superintendent of the 
Breakwater establishment, in a neat modern house, 
delightfully situated, sheltered by hills, and commanding 
a full view of the Breakwater, Sound, Cawsand-bay, and 
the opposite shore. The public works in the vicinity 
have given attractiveness to a spot heretofore scarcely 
known by name ; and Bovisand-bay has consequently 
become a favourite resort for aquatic parties. A group 
of cottages on the cliff furnishes the usual accommo- 
dation for tea and other refreshments. 

On the western side of the Sound, opposite Bovisand, 
is Cawsand Bay, the united villages of Cawsand and 
Kingsand appearing at its inner extremity. At some 
distance S.E. of the Breakwater is the Shag Stone, an 
isolated rock of some magnitude ; and, further on to the 
S.E. is the Mew Stone rearing its pyramidal mass out of 
the surrounding waters, and standing, as it were, sentry in 
the great portal of Plymouth Sound. This curious rock- 
island appertains to C. Calmady, Esq. and swarms with 
rabbits. Mr. Prideaux, alluding to its geology, speaks 
of it as " composed of red sand stone, and a rather gritty 
slate, full in some places of pale greenish nodules; per- 
haps organic reliques. The strata are laid open by the 
sea and weather, in such an extraordinary way, that 
they look as if displayed by art in tables for exhibition." 
— ( See transactions of the Plymouth Institution.) — A 
reef of subject rocks called the Little Mew~sto7ie is seen 
near the rock dominant, and in his befitting castle on 
the latter lives the feudal " Lord of the Isles," Sam 
Wakeham, of whom a full account was published some 
time back in No. 21, of the South Devon Museum, 
from which we take the liberty to quote the following 
description of the view commanded from the summit of 
the Mewstone. — "Dim in the eastern distance is 



104 EDDYSTOJSfE LICIITHOUSE. 

shadowed the Bolt-Head, south -westward of it may be 
observed the mouth of the Avon, and the long line of 
Bigbury bay, receiving the waters of the Erme, but the 
mouth of this river is hidden behind the promontory 
called Stoke Point. The river Yealm is seen winding 
its way between headlands into the Sound, nearly 
opposite the Mewstone ; and a little southward of its 
mouth stands the lonely church of Wembury ; thence 
the eye is carried to Bovisand bay and pier ; Staddon 
Heights ; Mount Batten ; the Hoe; Mount Edgcumbe ; 
Maker Heights, with Kingsand and Cawsand nestling 
below them ; Penlee point, the Obelisk, and Adelaide 
chapel ; Rame head, and its crowning chapel ; Whitsand 
bay, and the rugged line of Cornish coast, stretching 
away to the Lizard point. " 

The Eddystonc Lighthouse. 

While the Breakwater is admired as a work of mere 
utility and magnitude, the Eddystone Lighthouse pos- 
sesses a triple charm, as a brilliant gem of constructive 
science, as an object fascinating in form and situation, 
and as characterized by a noble purpose of humanity. 
Elevated on a head-land, or isolated within a short 
distance from the shore, it would claim, (and, indeed 
merit) little comparative interest : but, rising, as it does, 
amid the swelling billows of the open sea, apart from all 
but an occasional and brief communion with the social 
world, either shrouded in the black horrors of the ocean 
storm, or gleaming in unparticipated sunshine, it acts 
upon our senses with a spell of magic and finely typi- 
fies the quality of truth — " immutable, immaculate, and 
immortal, — firm alike in weal and woe — unaffected by 
the ever floating change of surrounding existence, and 
serene amid the vainly threatening surge of worldly 
scorn!" 



stranger's guide. IOo 

This interesting structure is built on one* of a large 
cluster of rocks stretching across the channel in a north 
and south direction, to the length of about one hundred 
fathoms, it is distant from the pier at Plymouth fourteen 
miles, and wholly exposed to heavy swells from the Bay of 
Biscay and the Atlantic ocean. The particular form 
and position of these rocks tend greatly to augment the 
force of the sea, and previously to the erection of the 
lighthouse, many fatal accidents happened upon them. 
Though most important to the port of Plymouth, 
the Eddystone Lighthouse is beneficial to all vessels 
going up the channel. In 1696, notwithstanding the 
insuperable difficulties that seemed to attend the erection 
of an edifice on a rock so situated, Mr. H. Winstanley, 
succeeded in accomplishing that desirable object. His 
fabric, however, was so fantastically constructed that it 
bore no unapt resemblance to a Chinese pagoda, and 
the general opinion was that it would prove as frail 
in substance, as it was fanciful in taste. Mr. Winstanley, 
however, "was so well assured of the strength of his 
building, that he only wished to be there in the greatest 
storm that ever blew under the face of the heavens, that 
he might have an opportunity of witnessing what effect it 
would have upon the lighthouse/ 7 This desire was 
fatally accomplished in November 1703. Mr. Winstanley 
went out to superintend some repairs of the building, 
and that very night a tempest arose, which so increased, 
that next day the Lighthouse, with its inmates, was swept 
into the deep. It had not been long destroyed before 
the Winchelsea, Virginiaman, laden with tobacco for 
Plymouth, went to pieces on the rocks, and all on board 
were lost. 

The next light-house erected by Mr. John Rudyerd, 
was constructed of stone and timber. The building 
formed the frustrum of a cone, free from any projection 

* Mr. Prideaux describes this one rock— and that only — as 
of gneiss; the only rock of its kind that he is aware of in 
England. 



106 EDD*STONE LIGHTHOUSE. 

which might endager its security. It was commenced 
1706, completed 1709, and sustained the attacks of the 
sea, upwards of forty-six years, when it was destroyed 
by fire against which no precautions had been taken, 
because no idea of such danger had been entertained. 
On the 22nd of August, 1755, the workmen had returned 
on shore, having finished all necessary repairs for the 
season; between which time, and the 2nd of December 
following, the attending-boat had been several times to 
the lighthouse, and on the first of December, landed 
some stores, when the light- keepers made no complaint. 
On the morning, however, of the 2nd of December, 
about two o'clock the light-keeper went into the lantern, 
and found the whole in smoke. On opening the door into 
the balcony, a flame instantly burst from the inside of 
the lantern : he endeavoured to alarm his companions ; 
but they being asleep, were not so ready in coming to 
his assistance as the occasion required. As there was 
always a tub of water, in the lantern, he attempted to 
extinguish the fire in the cupola, by throwing the water 
from the balcony, upon the outside cover of lead : by this 
time his comrades approaching, proceeded to fetch up 
water with the leathern buckets from the sea ; but the 
labour of earring it from below to a height of 70 feet was too 
tardy in operation, and the flames continued to gather 
strength until the fire was discovered by some Cawsand 
fishermen, who pushed off their boat and reached the 
rocks at 10 o'clock, after the fire had been burning for 
8 hours. By this time the light-keepers, driven from the 
rooms and staircase, to avoid the falling of the timber, 
and red-hot bolts, had taken refuge in a hole, on the 
east side of the rock, and were found almost in a state 
of stupefaction. The wind at this time was sufficient to 
render the landing most hazardous. It was with mucli 
difficulty, therefore, that the men could be taken in ; 
but this being accomplished, the boat hastened to Ply- 
mouth. No sooner, however, were they set on shore, 
than one of them made ofT, and no tidings were 



stranger's guide. 107 

afterwards obtained of him. This circumstance created a 
suspicion of the fire having originated in design; but, 
as the peculiar situation of the lighthouse " seemed to 
preclude the possibility of its being burnt wilfully, n 
Mr. Smeaton attributed his flight to that panic which 
sometimes seizes weak minds, and irresistibly prompts 
them to commit actions the tendency of which is pre- 
cisely inverse to the effect intended. Admiral West, 
who than lay with a fleet in Piy mouth Sound, sent a 
launch, with several hands and an engine; but the 
agitation of the waves was so great, that nothing could 
be done in stopping the progress of the flames ; and 
after some ineffectual attempts to play upon the building, 
the engine-pipe was broken by accident. The fire was 
in consequence left to its own course. A curious practi- 
cal comment is afforded in the fact that the interposed 
beds of timber were sufficient to heat the moor stone red- 
hot. Not till the seventh of the month did the joint action 
of the wind, the fire, and the sea totally complete the 
catastrophe ; and Rudyerd's admirable building, faulty 
only in its materials, then exhibited no other evidence of 
its late existence than was afforded by the iron cramps 
and branches left standing upright upon the rock. The 
most remarkable circumstance connected with the des- 
truction of Rudyerd's Lighthouse, is recorded in the fate 
of Henry Hall, one of the light-keepers, 94 years of age. 
While looking upwards to observe the progress of the 
flames, a shower of melted lead fell from the roof, and 
a quantity of the liquid metal passed down his throat. 
The man having disclosed this fact, was not believed ; but 
on his death, which took place about twelve days after 
the accident, his body being opened, a solid piece of 
lead, weighing seven ounces and five dramns, was found 
in his stomach. 

The present building, erected by the justly celebrated 
Smeaton, exhibits a striking instance of art and ingenuity, 
and has hitherto remained a monument of great original 
power and acquired skill. The first stone was laid on 



108 EDDY STONE LIGHTHOETSE. 

the first of June, 1757. "Mr. Smeaton conceived the 
idea of his edifice from the waist or bole of a large 
spreading oak. Considering the figure of a tree as 
connected with its roots, which lie hid below the ground, 
Mr S. observed that it rose from the surface with a large 
swelling base which, at the height of one diameter, is 
generally reduced by an elegant concave curve to a 
diameter less by at least one third, and sometimes to 
half its original base. Hence he deduced what the shape 
of a column of the greatest stability ought to be to resist 
the action of external violence, when the quantity of 
matter of which it is to be composed is given." To 
expedite the erection of the building the stones were 
hewn and fitted to each other on shore, and after every 
precaution to ensure security had been taken, the work 
was completed in October, 1759. 

Thefollowing occurence is related as havingtaken place 
during its construction. " Louis the XIV. being at war 
with England while the work was proceeding with, a 
French privateer took the men at work on the Eddystone 
rocks, together with their tools, and carried them to 
France, the captain expecting a reward for the achieve- 
ment. While the captives lay in prison, the transaction 
came to the knowledge of the French monarch, who 
immediately ordered the prisoners to be released and 
the captors to be confined in their stead, declaring that 
though he was at war with England he was not so with 
mankind. He therefore directed the men to be sent back 
to their work with presents." 

With the exception of the lantern, which is of cast 
iron and copper, the Lighthouse is entirely of stone, the 
outside being of granite, and the several floors vaulted. 

The body of the building is circular in plan, the 
diameter of the base being 26 feet, and that of the top 
immediately below the gallery 15 feet. The height, 
from the bottom of the lowest course of stone-work to 
the gallery level is 70 feet. Above the gallery rises the 
octagonal lantern, 24 feet high, making a total altitude 







o s /o to .jo 40 fojb 

IP L AN" AND S ECTIOK 

OF 

THE EDDYS TONE LIGHT HOUSE 



SI RANGER S GUIDE. 109 

of 94 feet. An elevation and section are given, by 
which a correct knowledge of the external form and 
internal construction and arrangement may be obtained. 
By the etched portion of the section, it will be seen 
that the building is perfectly solid up to the level A, 
where is the entrance passage. The verticle opening B 
is occupied by a spiral stair-flight leading to the lower 
store-room C. The upper store-room D, the kitchen 
E, and the bed-room F, are successively approached by 
step ladders. G is the gallery, and H the lantern. 

The great body of the Eddystone Lighthouse, as 
before observed, is constructed of granite and Portland 
stone, the latter being employed only to fill up the 
solid parts of the interior. There are in the height from 
the rock to the gallery 40 entire courses of masonry, 
and several incomplete ditto, necessary to connect the 
building with the slanting surface of its foundation. 
The stones average a ton weight each. Those on the 
same level are all dovetailed together, something after 
the mode of a dissected toy map ; and the successive 
courses are attached to each other by means of square 
marble blocks, (called joggles, or dowels) which project 
one half of their solidity into the course below, and the 
other half into the course above. By this, and other 
assistant means, so firm a bond is maintained both 
horizontally and vertically, that the building may be 
regarded as " one entire and perfect " substance. To 
resist the lateral pressure two iron binding chains encircle 
the building at the springing ef each floor vault, and 
every additional precaution has been taken to render the 
structure not less proof against the slow workings of 
ordinary decay, than against the sudden attacks of 
of tempestuous fury. The curvelinear outlines of its 
vertical section, as well as the circular form of its plan, 
contribute much to dissipate the force of wave and wind,, 
nor is it, finally, unreasonable to suppose, that, with 
slight occasional repair, the Eddystone Lighthouse will 
exist, as long as the rock on which it stands shall continue 

H 



110 EDDYSTONE LIGHT-HOUSE. 

to form an unshaken foundation. Such of our readers 
as desire a more perfect acquaintance with this extra- 
ordinary building should consult the noble folio volume 
published by Mr. Smeaton in 1813. Mr. Smeaton's 
narrative is therein "set down with as much mode-ty as 
cunning;" and the pious humility of the architect is 
evinced in the following inscription on a course of granite 
round the upper store room : — 

" EXCEPT THE LORD BUILD THE HOUSE 
"THEY LABOUR IN VAIN THAT BUILD IT 

" Psalm cxxvii. " 

Over the easrside of the lantern are the words 

" 24th Augt. 1759. 

" Laus Deo." 

At first there were only two light-keepers ; but an 
incident of a very distressing nature shewed the necessity 
of an additional hand. One of the two keepers died ; 
the dilemma in which this occurence left the survivor 
was singularly painful ; apprehensive that if he threw 
the body into the sea, (the only way in his power to 
dispose of it) he might be charged with murder, he was 
induced for some time to retain the corpse in hopes that 
the attending-boat might relieve him from the distress he 
was in. It was near a -month before the boat could 
effect a landing. To such a degree was the whole 
building infected with the putridity of the corpse, that 
it was immediately on the entrance of the witnesses 
thrown into the sea. 

Three men are now stationed here, each of whom has, 
in the summer, a month's leave to visit his friends.. 
They are provided with food and all other necessaries by 
a boat appointed for that purpose ; but they are always 
stocked with salt provisions, to guard against the 
possibility of want, as in winter it sometimes happens 
that the boat cannot approach the rock for many weeks 
together. 



stranger's guide. Ill 

Gilpin observes, "in high winds so briny an atmos- 
phere surrounds this gloomy solitude, from the dashing 
of the waves, that a person exposed to it could hardly 
draw his breath. At these dreadful intervals the forlorn 
inhabitants keep close quarters, and are obliged to live 
in darkness listening to the howling storm, excluded in 
every emergency from the hope of human assistance, 
and without any earthly comfort but that which results 
from their confidence in the strength of the building in 
which they are immured. In fine weather they just 
scramble about the edge of the rock when the tide ebbs, 
and amuse themselves with fishing ; and this is the only 
employment they have, except that of trimming their 
nightly fires. " Smeaton, in speaking of one of these 
light-keepers, says, "In the fourteen years that he had 
been here he was grown so attached to the place, that 
for the two summers preceding he had given up his 
turn on shore to his companions, and declared his 
intention of doing the same the third; but was over- 
persuaded to go on shore and take his month's turn. 
He bad always in this service proved himself a decent, 
sober, well-behaved man ; but he no sooner got on shore 
than he gave himself up to intoxication. In this state 
he was carried on board the Eddystone boat, and 
delivered in the light-house, where he was expected to 
grow sober. He lingered a few days and expired ! n 
Among other of Mr. Smeaton's anecdotes is the following. 
" A shoemaker was engaged to be the light-keeper. 
When in the boat, the skipper said, " How happens it, 
friend Jacob, that you should choose to be cooped up 
here as a light-keeper, when you can on shore earn half- 
a-crowm and three shillings a day in making leathern 
hose (leathern pipes so called) ; whereas the light-keeper's 
salary is but 25/. a year, which is scarce ten shillings a 
week?" "Every one to his taste," replied Jacob 
promptly, " I go to be a light-keeper, because I don't 
like confinement" 

The duties paid by ships passing the Lighthouse are 
collected at all the neighbouring ports, and are as follow : 



112 EDDYSTONE LIGHTHOUSE. 

upon all British ships outward or homeward bound, on 
or from foreign voyages, one penny per ton ; one shilling 
per vessel from all coasters ; and double these sums on 
foreign ships when they come into British ports : the 
king's ships are all exempt, 



113 



MOUNT EDGCUMBE 

Will, of course, be one of the first objects claiming the 
particular attention of the stranger, to whom the grounds 
are kindly open, under certain restrictions. The gate- 
keepers have strict orders to refuse admission to any 
party bringing baskets or bundles, containing provisions 
of any sort; nor will bands of music, nor a numerous 
attendance of servants, be permitted to enter the grounds. 

No person on horseback or in a carriage can be 
admitted at the lower gate, but those who wish to drive 
or ride round the park must go up the turnpike road, 
and enter at the higher lodge, after putting down their 
names in a book at the lower lodge. 

The Plymouth sojourner has the option of proceeding 
to Mount Edgcumbe by water from the foot of the Hoe; 
or of merely crossing the ferry from Stonehouse. If he 
proceed from Devonport, he will embark at the foot of 
Mount Wise. In choosing either of the two latter means, 
he will have a tine water view of the new Victualling 
Establishment on his left. 

On arriving at the lodge, the visitor will observe the 
House terminating the perspective of a noble avenue, 
formed by two double rows of elm trees. 

Near the lodge, on the left, is the Italian Garden, 
characterised by all the peculiarities of the style whence 
its name is derived, viz. the central fountain with its 
caryatidal vase of marble; regular walks, diverging 
therefrom ; an orangery of Palladian design, opposed 
by a balustered terrace ; and a select party of the 
Heathen family occupying their uniformly arranged 
pedestals. 

The statues of Apollo, Venus, and Bacchus, will be 
recognised in their elevated position on the terrace. 
Others of Flora, Ceres, the Discobolus, and Antinous, - 
h 3 



114 stranger's guide. 

decorate the lower ground. In a niche under the 
central figure is placed a bust of Ariosto, and beneath 
it are inscribed the following lines from that poet : — 

" Vicino al lido, donde a poco a poco 
Si vasalendo in verso il colle araeno, 
Cedri, e naranci, e lauri, e mirti il loco 
E mille altri soavi arbori han pieno. 
Serpillo, e persa, e rose, e gigli, e croco, 
Spargon dalP odorifero terreno 
Tanta soavita, che in mar sentire 
La fa' ogni vento, che de terra spire." 

A physical translation of which is afforded in the scene 
around. The orange trees are among the finest in 
England. 

The visitor is next shewn the French Flower Garden, 
a little square enclosure, bounded by a hedge of ever- 
green oak and bay, and laid out in a parterre, with a 
bason and^'e£ d'eau in the midst, issuing from rock-work 
intermixed with shells, and surrounded by berceaux and 
arches of trellis twined over by all sorts of creeping 
plants. One side of the garden is occupied by an 
octagonal room opening on each side into conservatories. 
A picture at the back of the room, being removed, 
discovers a beautiful little statue of Meleager, behind 
which a glass is so placed as to reflect all the garden, 
and create, from a little distance, a pleasing illusion. 
This figure is answered by another of Mercury, placed 
opposite to it, outside the enclosure, and only seen in 
perspective under the arches, and through a circle of 
trellis work. In the border, on one side, a singularly 
fine magnolia should be remarked : opposite to it, on 
the other, is erected a cenotaph to the memory of Sophia, 
Countess of Mount Edgcumbe, who held this spot in 
peculiar favour. The Countess died in 1806. 

Sated with Italy and France, we next hail with 
unusual welcome the unrestrained aspect of the English 
Flower Garden, with its " happy accidents," and de- 
ceptive boundaries, its beds of shrubs and flowers, and 



MOUNT EDGCUMBE. 115 

beautiful trees, amongst which some extraordinarily fine 
magnolias, of unusual size, cedars both of Libanus and 
Virginia, and several cork trees, ought particularly to be 
remarked. A bench presents the following lines from 
Cowper : — 

" Prospects, however lovely, may be seen 
Till half their beauties fade ; the wearied eye 
Too well acquainted with their charms, slides off 
Fastidious, seeking less familiar scenes. 
Then snug enclosures in some shelter'd spot, 
Where frequent hedges intercept the eye, 
Delight us, happy to renounce awhile, 
Not senseless of its charms, what still we love, 
That such short absence may endear it more." 

In this garden is a handsome pavilion, comprising a 
vestibule, with a small room on each side, both very 
tastefully fitted up, the one as a study, the other as a 
boudoir. Behind these is a dressing-room, communi- 
cating with a bath, in which hot and cold water are 
poured from the mouths of two bronze dolphins into a 
capacious marble basin. 

A narrow and almost hidden path, winds down into 
a small quarry or excavation, thickly overshadowed with 
high evergreens, and overspread with ivy and other low 
plants, through which the natural rock of the soil peeps 
out on all sides : in this little obscure recess are placed 
a number of antique cinerary urns and sarcophagi, dis- 
posed irregularly about the ground, and on the various 
points of rock, exhibiting the appearance of a Pcoman 
cemetery. At the further end, amidst the confused heap 
of stones, lies a fine capital of the Corinthian order, 
brought from the ruins of Alexandria. 

On a point of land, which with Cremill point, oppo- 
site, forms as it w T ere the portal into Hamoaze, stands 
the Blockhouse. It was built with two or three others, 
in the reign of queen Elizabeth, for the defence of the 
port, and is now a picturesque ruin, partly covered with 
ivy. Against one of its sides, a plain portico of two 



11*5 stranger's guide. 

moorstone columns has been erected for a seat, and m 
front of it is a saluting battery of twenty-one guns. A 
tablet in the wall gives the following description from 
Carew's Survey of Cornwall, A.D. 1602 :— - 

" Both sides of the narrow entrance are fenced with 
blockhouses, and that next Mount Edgcumbe was wont 
to be planted with ordnance, which, at coming and 
parting, with their base voices greeted such guests as 
visited the house.' 7 

The other blockhouse here spoken of is still standing 
on the opposite rocks : a modern redoubt has been 
erected on the hill above it. The Mount Edgcumbe 
battery was restored in 1747, and was again entirely re- 
mounted in 1800, with French eight-pounders, all 
purchased from prizes. The view from this spot is most 
delightful, comprehending all Barnpool and the Sound, 
the Island, Mount Batten, and Mewstone, with the open 
sea beyond. Hence, too, a large portion of the hill, 
and woods of the place itself, are seen to the greatest 
advantage, with the towers of the house rising above 
the trees in which it appears embosomed. 

Near this is Thomson's Seat, a Doric alcove, so called 
from the following apposite quotation from his poems. 

" On either hand 
Like a long wint'ry forest, groves of masts 
-hot up their spires ; the bellying sheet between 
Possess'd the breezy void : the sooty hulk 
Steer'd sluggish on : the splendid barge along 
Ilow'd regular, to harmony : around, 
The boat, light skimming, streatch'd its oary wings, 
While deep the various voice of fervent toil 
From bank to bank increas'd ; whence ribb'd with oak 
To bear the British thunder, black and bold, 
The roaring vessel rush'd into the main." 

The visitor is now conducted to a gate of exit from 
the Gardens, and left by the guide to pursue, alone, his 
course through the grounds. 

Following the margin of the water he crosses, what 
may be termed the proscenium of a " woody threatre/' 



MOUNT EDCCUMRE. 117 

on the southern side of which is an Ionic monopteral 
temple, inclosing a bust of Milton and the following 
descriptive lines: — 

" Over head up grew 
Insuperable height of loftiest shade, 
Cedar, and fir, and pine, and branching palm, 
A sylvan scene : and as the ranks ascend 
Shade above shade, a woody theatre 
Of stateliest view," 

Amongst the fine trees which adorn this valley, several 
tulip trees, oriental and occidental plants of a remarkable 
size, a large cedar of Libanus, and a Carolina poplar of 
extraordinary height, ought particularly to be noticed. 

The visitor is now left unperplexed with gratuitous 
description, to enjoy the varieties of rock, wood, declivity, 
and ascent, which lead onwards to the Artificial Ruin, 
loftily situated on his right, and which he should not, on 
any slight account, fail to ascend. A few steps lead to 
a secure and convenient landing, from which he will 
overlook a panorama of singular extent, variety, and 
beauty. Of its more proximate features, the darkly 
embowered entrance into the cavernous grove on the 
south, may possibly strike him as most remarkable. 
Below this is the Cottage, notable as a specimen of its 
style, and as romantically situated as a poetical wanderer 
could desire. Anticipating fatigue, we may here inform 
him that " a chair is at his service." 

The visitor will next be directed how, by means of a 
winding path cut round a precipice, he may ascend to 
the Great Terruce through a rugged and " ivy-clad " 
archway. A stone seat close by, on the edge of an 
almost perpendicular precipice, commands a fine view 
over the Sound immediately at his feet, with the open 
sea to the right; St. Nicholas' Island, Plymouth, &c. 
to the left. At this place are the principle ascent and 
descent to the Zigzag Walks, which are cut in the side 
of the hill both above and below 7 the terrace, extending 
upwards to Redding Point, where he enters the park, 
and downwards as low as the cliff is practicable. Prom 



118 STRANGER^ GUIDE. 

the number and intricacy of these walks, it is not possible 
to describe them accurately, or give directions what 
paths to pursue : but every part of them is extremely 
beautiful, and almost every turn discovers some fresh 
view, from the variety of the rocks which form the coast, 
and from the different openings caught through the 
trees and shrubs. The new, or Upper Zigzags, are, if 
possible, still more beautiful than the lower: the cliff in 
parts being more abrupt, the shrubs more luxuriant, and 
the views, from the height whence they are seen, more 
magnificent and commanding. At the very summit, a 
bench, placed on a prominent point of rock, overlooks 
the whole side of the almost perpendicular precipice, 
clothed with its rich covering of arbutus and other ever- 
greens, which seem to dip their branches into the sea 
beneath. 

Following the terrace, the visitor winds onward 
towards the right, and suddenly enters Picklecomhe, a 
regularly formed valley receding from Cawsand Bay, 
having, at the inner extremity of its curve, a small 
artificial ruin, in which is a seat, from whence the eye 
passes through the valley's length and rests upon the ma- 
rine expanse beyond. Having made the circuit of this 
little valley, the stranger comes in sight of Hoe-lake 
Valley, at the bottom of which, amid a cluster of trees, 
stands a cottage, picturesque in style and furnished with 
deer skins, antlers, and other park emblems. Ascending 
the hill northward, we arrive at Maker Church, by which 
the visitor may proceed a short way homeward, if his 
time be limited : otherwise he should enter the park, 
round which the pleasure grounds extend, and follow the 
grass drive, which is carried round the whole summit of 
the hill, and conducts straight forward to Redding Point. 
An expanse of open sea here bursts upon the sight, 
confined by Staddon Heights and the Mewstone on the 
left, and on the right by Penlee Point, under which lies 
Cawsand Bay, with the little town from whence it takes 
its name. The Breakwater appears immediately in front, 



MOUNT EDGCUMBE. 119 

and in clear weather the Eddystone light-house is visible, 
at a great distance in the offing. 

The path continues northward to an alcove on the 
summit of the hill called the White Scat, from which 
you overlook Ilamoaze, and the whole course of the 
river Tamar as high as the town of Saltash; the ships 
in the harbour ; the dock-yard, and town of Devonport; 
the church and village of Stoke ; the Military Hospital; 
Stonehouse, with the Naval Hospital and Marine 
Dai racks ; the Citadel and churches of Plymouth ; 
Saltram, the seat of the earl of Morley; Catwater, with 
its shipping, enclosed by Mount Batten ; St. Nicholas' 
Island, the Sound, and Staddon Heights beyond it : the 
whole view is bounded by a range of lofty hills, among 
which the round top of Hingston (or Hengist) Down, 
the peaked head of Brent Tor, and the irregular summits 
of Dartmoor, are conspicuous. 

From the White Seat the visitor may proceed west- 
ward towards the upper gate, observing the thickly 
planted grove which nobly crowns Mount Edgcumbe, 
and forms its most distinguishing feature wdien viewed as 
a distant object from the country around. The Shrubbery 
and Home Terrace are also well worthy of the visitor's 
notice ; but as the beauties they disclose are not dis- 
tinctively peculiar, we shall not dwell upon them. " The 
grounds occupy an area of about three miles in cir- 
cumference, including the whole peninsula between 
Hamoaze and the Sound." 

The house was erected about the year 1550, in the 
castellated style, battlemented, with round towers at the 
corners ; but these were pulled down in the middle of 
the last century, and rebuilt in their present octangular 
form. The hall, originally Gothic, has long been 
modernized, and is now a handsome lofty room of two 
stories, with galleries supported by columns of Devon- 
shire marble. The chimney-pieces, tables, and terms, 
bearing busts of Italian workmanship copied from the 
antique, exhibit fine specimens of various Cornish 
Granites. 



120 stranger's guide. 

An extensive addition has been made, at different 
times, to the west end, containing, among other con- 
venient apartments, a large library and a dining-room. 

The paintings at Mount Edgcumbe chiefly consist of 
portraits ; among which are those of the first earl of 
Sandwich; his daughter, lady Anne, and her husband, 
Sir Richard Edgcumbe ; all by Sir Peter Lely. A 
curious portrait of Margaret Edgcumbe, maid-of-honour 
to queen Elizabeth, represented in widow's weeds ; and 
who was, when the picture was painted, in the sixty- 
eighth year of her age, and the forty-eighth of her widow- 
hood. Portraits of Charles I. the duke of Monmouth, 
Charles II. James II. prince Rupert, and William III. 
The following are by Sir Joshua Reynolds ; Richard 
the first baron Edgcumbe, Richard the second baron, 
George, created earl of Mount Edgcumbe, and Emma 
his countess. 

" In the parliamentary wars," says Mr. Rowe, " Mount 
Edgcumbe was distinguished for its loyal adherence to 
the cause of Charles I. It was occupied as one of the 
royal fortresses, and claims the honour of having held 
out longer than any other in Devon, except Salcombe. 
It was surrendered to Col. Hammond, 21st April, 1646." 

Maker, Caws and, Rame, Bliilbrook, &c. 

The vicinity west and south west of Mount Edgcumbe 
is worthy the notice of residents and such visitors as can 
afford the time. The following is, with certain curtail- 
ments and a few additions, chiefly taken from a former 
Guide Book published by Mr. Rowe. 

We shall commence the present excursion from Cremill 
ferry, and follow the turnpike through the demesne of 
Mount Edgcumbe, to Maker church, the tower of which, 
commanding a view of the open sea and harbour, from 
its elevated situation has been used, during war, as a 
station for making signals to the fort of Mount- Wise. 
Although nature seems so distinctly to have marked the 



MAKER, CAWS AND, ETC. 121 

boundaries of the counties by the waters of the Tamar, 
some unknown reason has assigned a large portion of 
the parish of Maker to Devonshire. The church, a neat 
fabric of some antiquity, consists of a nave, chancel, 
and two side ailes. The principal monuments are those 
of the Edgcumbe family, to which the presentation 
of the church belongs. Leaving the church we follow a 
path through the fields, and observe the neat vicarage, 
pleasantly situated on a gentle declivity. From this, 
passing to the small hamlet of Maker, noted only for its 
tea-houses, we speedily arrive at Maker heights, where a 
number of redoubts, mounted with heavy ordnance, 
were constructed during the American war. These are 
furnished with barracks; command Cawsand Bay, Mill- 
brook Lake, and the adjacent country ; and are garri- 
soned in time of war, with troops from the regiments at 
Plymouth. By a steep and difficult road we descend to 
the town formed by Cawsand, and Kingsand — the latter 
in Devon, the former in Cornwall; a small brook form- 
ing at the same time the boundary of the two towns, the 
parishes of Rame and Maker, and the two counties, 
This place has partaken largely in the prosperity which 
the whole district owes to the naval establishments of the 
neigbourhood. In Carew's time it consisted only of a 
few fishermen's huts ; it now contains above three hun- 
dred houses, many of them large and well built. Its 
support, which in time of war was principally derived 
from the number of ships that resorted to the Bay, is 
chiefly dependent on the Pilchard Fisheries. On a rocky 
eminence, which rises near the centre of Cawsand, are 
the vestiges of a fortification, at present called the Bul- 
warks: it was originally mounted with ordnance. Tra- 
dition records, that Henry VII. when asserting his 
claim to the English throne as earl of Ptichmond, landed 
at Cawsand ; but being informed, while refreshing him- 
self after his voyage, that a strict watch was kept at 
Plymouth for his apprehension, he re-embarked to seek 
a more favourable port. 

i 



122 stranger's guide. 

The Plantations and carriage road, extending along 
the eastern side of the hill above Kingsand and Cawsand 
and around Penlee point, are the chief features of many 
extensive improvements lately effected by Lord Valletort. 
At some distance above the road is Penlee Beacon, a 
lofty obelisk conspicuous as a land mark for mariners ; 
and l * on the bold headland of Penlee, accessible by a 
foot path which diverges from the carriage road above 
mentioned," has been erected a picturesque little Gothic 
building, called Adelaide Chapel, in honor of her 
present Majesty, who, with King William — then Lord 
High Admiral, visited the Earl of Mount Edgcumbe in 
1827, and made frequent excursions to this her favo- 
rite spot. We next reach Rame Head, well known as 
one of the most prominent head-lands on the southern 
coast of the kingdom. " On this exposed elevation 
stands a ruined chapel, built of the same stone as that 
which forms the cliffs, and probably the work of some 
mariner, who dedicated it to a patron saint in gratitude 
for his escape from the dangers of the ocean." From 
this point we shall direct our course to Rame church 
and village, situated on the declivity of the hill, whose 
southern side opposes a precipitous cliff to the sea. 
Leaving Rame by the public road that leads to Cawsand, 
we proceed till we arrive at a lane that branches off to 
the left, and which will conduct us to a path over some 
high ground, commanding extensive views of the vicinity. 
In our descent on the opposite side of the hill, towards 
Maker, we gain a pleasing view of the town of Cawsand, 
at the bottom of a fertile vale, with the blue waters of 
the bay beyond. Having entered the Maker turnpike- 
road in our progress towards Millbrook, we observe the 
new fe Chapel-of-Ease, which was erected by voluntary 
subscription, aided by a grant from the commissioners 
for building churches and chapels. The site was given 
by the earl of Mount Edgcumbe, and the chapel conse- 
crated by the lord bishop of Exeter in October, 1827. 
Millbrook, pleasantly situated in a sheltered bottom, 



SB ARROW GROT. 123 

at the head of a creek branching out of llamoaze, 
contains above two hundred houses, many of them well 
built, and agreeably situated, enjoying pleasing views 
of the creek, Mount Edgcumbe, and the surrounding 
country. Proceeding west of Millbrook towards the 
sea, and having passed the estate of Freathy, we shall 
arrive at 

Sharrow Grot, 

an artificial excavation in the cliffs at Whitsand Bay. 
The cavern is fifteen feet deep and seven high, with an 
arched roof and benches entirely hewn out of the solid 
rock, by the Herculean labour of the uncle of the late 
Joseph Lugger, esq. who, in consequence of adopting 
this singular prescription, is said to have successfully 
resisted the attacks of the gout. The sides of the grotto 
are inscribed with verses descriptive of the surrounding 
scenery; over the entrance is engraven these words from 
the /Eneid — " vivo sedilia Saxo;" and the spot com- 
mands a vast expanse of ocean, stretching beyond the 
head-lands, which form the boundaries of the bay. On 
the beach below Sharrow Grot are the remains of 
Sharrow Palace, (as it was called) a house of refuge for 
fishermen which once stood there. One of the corners 
of this building may be still seen on a detached mass of 
rock, and around it are numerous traces of walls 
becoming gradually less distinct as they are washed by 
the ocean-tempests of succeeding winters. In the per- 
pendicular rock above these remains is aline of grooves 
dug at regular distances, and which, most probably, were 
occupied by the ends of the beams that originally 
supported the roof of the building. 

In returning we leave Millbrook on the left, and 
pursue our tour towards the naval brewery, at South 
Down, situated on the peninsula of Ince worth. This 
manor originally formed part of the extensive domains 
I of the earls of Cornwall. In Risdon's time it was a a 
princely place, both for amenity and commodity ;" and 

i 2 



124 stranger's guide. 

vestiges of the former importance of the manor-house 
are still to be traced among the buildings at Inceworth 
farm. The most perfect remains of the ancient structure 
will be found in a Gothic chapel, at present used as a 
granary. 

The path from Millbrook to South Down is carried 
along the margin of the creek, the which being crossed 
we shall land at Anderton, and pursue a path through 
rich pasture lands, and the skirts of Mount Edgcumbe 
grounds. At high-water this walk will be found very 
pleasing, for the various prospects on both sides of 
Hamoaze, Devonport, Torpoint, &c. which it affords. 
After passing numerous neat dwellings we reach Impa- 
combe ; where having noticed the entrance to the 
kitchen gardens of Mount Edgcumbe 3 and crossed the 
path-field in which the obelisk is placed on an eminence 
above Ilamoaze, we once more arrive at Cremili-fcrry. 



125 



SALTRAM, LARY BRIDGE, &c. 



Saltram, the seat of the Earl of Morley, has para- 
mount claims upon the visitor's early notice, derived not 
less from the internal riches of the mansion, than from 
the external beauties by which it is surrounded. The 
ready permission granted by the noble and liberal pro- 
prietor to all who are desirous of viewing the house and 
grounds, and the marked attention and courtesy with 
which all respectable visitors are received, demand our 
gratitude and admiration. 

The mansion is situate at some distance from the new 
London Road (which passes over the Lary Bridge), and 
about 3 miles from the Royal Hotel, Plymouth. If the 
visitor proceed by carriage, he will leave Plymouth by 
its eastern exit, and continue along the high road till he 
approaches the Elizabethan residence of J. Johnston, 
Esq. distinguished by its barge-board gables and other 
picturesque features of that style, which we rejoice to 
see is once more gaining favour in its native land. 
Here, instead of following the direct line, the visitor will 
branch off towards the right, and, passing over Lary 
Bridge, he will arrive, by a road turning short round 
to the left, at the Lodge at Chelson Meadow. In the 
event of going by water, w T e embark from the Barbican 
at Sutton Pool, and proceed along the harbour of 
Catwater, between the Quarries of Catdown on the 
left, and Oreston, &c. on the right, passing under the 
Lary Bridge, and landing at the water lodge, which 
will be observed, embowered in foliage, at a considerable 
distance up, on the right hand side of the Estuary. 
Should walking be preferred, the pedestrian will cross 
the mouth of Sutton Pool at the Barbican and inquire 
his way towards Lary Bridge over Catdown, from the 
elevation of which are pleasing prospects of Mount 

i 3 



126 stranger's guide. 

Edgcumbe, Plymouth Citadel, the Sound, and the 
country on the opposite side of Catwater, whose entrance, 
it will be observed is distinguished by Mount Batten 
and its circular watch tower, erected to defend the 
harbour, and the scene of much bloodshed during the 
civil wars. It is now used by the harbour-master as a 
look-out station, and has a flag-staff erected for the 
purpose of making signals to notify the appearance of 
vessels in the offing. A path across the isthmus which 
connects Mount Batten with the main land leads to 
Turnchapel, the dock-yard at which place is the property 
of the Earl of Morley, and is far superior to any in the 
port, having been used for the construction and repair 
of ships of war. The Armada, of 74 guns, was launched 
from this yard in 1810, and the Clarence, 74, at a later 
period. 

Extending eastward from Mount ^Batten are the 
villages of Turnchapel, Hooe, and Oreston, with the 
several charming residences of Bellevue, (Mrs. Bulteel.) 
— Radford, (J. Harris, Esq.) — Thorn Cottage, (C. 
Harris, Esq.), and others, in the parish of Plymstock. 
The village of Plymstock is in the unseen rear. In its 
church are an elaborately carved screen of gold and 
coloured tracery, and several monuments of the family 
of Harris, of Radford, and others recording the names 
of Bulteel, Bellamy, &c. 

Oreston quarries supply the stone for the Breakwater. 
The rock will bear a fine polish, and being beautifully 
veined, is used for chimney-pieces, tables, and many 
ornamental purposes. The ground, containing twenty- 
five acres, was purchased from the Duke of Bedford, 
the lord of the manor of Plymstock, for ten thousand 
pounds. The quarries were opened on the 7th of 
August, 1812 ; and in proceeding with the work an 
extraordinary phenomenon was discovered in the very 
body of the marble rock. "At the depth of sixty 
feet from the summit, and twenty-five from the margin 
of the sea, a cavity or rather a nodule of clay was 



SALTRAM, LA11Y BRIDGE, ETC. 127 

discovered, about twenty-five feet long, and twelve 
square; in the midst of which were found numerous 
bones and teeth of the rhinoceros, wolf, deer, cow, horse, 
&c. in a more perfect state, and containing less animal 
matter in them than any fossil bones that had yet been 
dug out of rock or earth. It should seem from the very 
considerable quantity that has been collected, as if they 
had been brought here at different times since the first 
formation of the rock, by the beasts of prey which 
occasionally took possession of the cavern. This con- 
jecture is much strengthened by the shattered appearance 
of the ends of many of the bones, which seem as if they 
had been gnawed and broken by the teeth of some 
animal. But as to their being antediluvian or not, or to 
what period of the world they might be assigned, must 
be left to those who are better informed to determine." 

The Lary Bridge 

will now claim the earnest attention of every person of 
taste or science. On a block of granite, at the northern 
extremity, is the following inscription : — 

HUNC PONTEM 

SENATUS AUCTORITATE SUSCEPTUM 

NOVAS ET COMMODAS VIAS 

RECLUDENTUM 

JOHANNES COMES DE MORLEY 

SUIS SUMPT1BL T S 

STRUENDUM CURAVIT. 

OPUS INCHOATUM A.D. 1824. 

ABSOLUTUM A.D. 1827. 

J. M. RENDEL, ARCHITECTO. 

The Bridge is 500 feet in length between the abut- 
ments, and the curve of the road is formed by a radius of 
4670 feet. Its elevation exhibits five arches of cast-iron 
— the central 100 feet span, rising 14 feet 6 inches above 
high- water mark. Those next on either side are 95 feet 
each, and rise 1 3 feet 3 inches. The extreme arches are 8 1 



128 stranger's guide. 

feet, and rise 10, giving the road-way, which is 25 feet 
in width, a gentle curve. Owing to the great depth of 
the loose sandy bed of the Lary, and the rapidity of the 
tide, much care was necessary in preparing and preser- 
ving the foundations, which were laid from 5 to 6 feet 
below the level of the river. As a protection against 
land-floods, &c. an artificial bottoming, composed of 
materials which had been proved by experiment to con- 
solidate under water into a mass as indestructible as 
many indurated rocks, was laid quite across the river at the 
site of the bridge. Care was taken to keep this bottom- 
ing, which was placed at a late period of the work, below 
the natural bed of the river, and complete success has 
attended all the operations, as is proved by the fact, that 
not the least settlement has taken place. 

The more peculiar features of this Bridge are as 
follow : viz. — The elliptical form of the arches, which 
is continuous with the curve of the abutments, instead 
of the usual angular union between segmental arches 
and upright piers : — Secondly, the termination of the 
stone piers, at the springing of the arches, whereby the 
connexion of the iron superstructure is uninterruptedly 
preserved. 

For further particulars connected with this elegant 
structure, which does equal honour to the taste and 
science of its architect, Mr. Rendel, see " Transactions 
of the Plymouth Institution : v vol. 1. art. 3. 

Crossing the Bridge, we turn immediately to the left 
and enter Chelson Meadow through a lodge gate. The 
rectilinear embaukment stretching across to the second 
gate is 2910 feet in length. The flat meadow on the 
right (comprising 175 acres of rich land) was recovered, 
by means of this embankment, from the waters which 
formerly constituted Chelson Bay. This important 
measure was effected by the present Earl of Morley, 
who received, in consequence, a gold medal from the 
Society of Arts. 

On this meadow the Plymouth Races are held. The 
Stand is seen at some distance on the right. 



SALTRAM, LARY BRIDGE, ETC. 129 

Leaving the race ground, the visitor will enter through 
a second gate the Saltram grounds. The road directly 
on by the water's side communicates with the old 
London road at Long Bridge : the branch road on the 
right conducts to the house. 

Saltram House, 

erected early in th^last century by Lady Catherine 
Parker, is a spacious edifice in the Palladian style of 
architecture, and has been much improved by the pre- 
sent Earl of Morley, aided by the professional taste of 
Mr. Foulstone. It contains a noble range of apartments, 
among which the Great Saloon, conspicuous for scale 
and splendour, exhibits a ceiling painted by Zucchi. 
The dining-room ceiling and walls are also painted by 
the same artist, and the drawing-room, library, and 
staircase are of a truly palatial character. A catalogue 
of the pictures which enrich these several apartments is 
published, and may be had at the house, or from 
Mr. Nettleton, the publisher of this work. We there- 
fore deem it unnecessary to make little more than a 
general allusion to the fact, that many of the first masters 
of ancient and modern times are here represented. The 
leading feature of the grand Saloon, is a large Baccha- 
nalian subject by Titian ; and in the same apartment are 
choice pictures by Guerchino, Rubens, Vandyke, Paul 
Veronese, and two views by Canaletti, (one representing 
part of the Doge's Palace, and the other the entrance 
into the arsenal of Venice) which have more than the 
usual great merit of their celebrated author. There is a 
mellow grandeur in their colouring, which gives them 
a charm apart from that of their architectural character, 
and renders them worthy of a visit on their own distinct 
merits. The staircase is distinguished by a noble picture 
of "The Assumption" by Sabbatini, and with several 
paintings by Angelica Kauffman. The library is en- 
riched with an interesting series of portraits by Reynolds ; 



130 stranger's guide. 

and the drawing-room manifests the artistical accomplish- 
ments of the Countess of Morley, whose copies from 
the Flemish and other masters are remarkable for their 
feeling and fidelity. In addition to the names already 
mentioned, the catalogue exhibits those of M. A. Cam- 
pidoglio, Bassano, Guido, Lingelback, Domenichino, 
Sassoferrato, Karel du Jardin, Vandervelde, Poussin, 
Salvator, Borgognone, Jordaens, Orizonti, Teniers, 
Palamedes, Caravaggio, (whose picture of the " Tribute 
Money " will claim especial regard) Mile, Dalens, Both, 
Weenix, Albano, Wouverman, Hoet, Caracci, Breughel, 
Fyt, Elsheimer, Lutherbourgh, Scalkin, Polidore, Bril, 
Mengs, Baroccio, Jansen, Meulen, Carlo Dolce, 
Coreggio, A. Del Sarto, Berghem, Cyp, Artois, 
Ricchardelli, Vanuden, Panini, Swanevelt, Beek, Mor- 
land, Roos, Sneyders, Kneller, Northcote, Tomkins, 
Phillips, Stuart, Johns, Barker, Rogers, Garvey, &c. 
&c. &c. If another picture may be particularised, we 
would most pointedly refer to the " Methodist Meeting,'* 
by Egbert Hemskerk, and worthy of Hogarth himself. 
The busts and sculpture of the collection greatly add to 
its value. 

The pleasure gardens are suited to the house ; and, 
as one of the more remarkable objects in the surrounding 
grounds, we may mention the picturesque skreen of 
three lofty arches, which forms so singular and pleasing 
a picture when viewed from the high road on the 
opposite side of the estuary. 

A road behind the house leads to the lodge at New 
Bridge, whence the old London road passes onward to 
Ridgway. New Bridge is at this time being re-edified, 
the old bridge having been not less remarkable for its 
inconvenience than for its picturesque character. Here 
the river Plym joins the salt waters of the Lary estuary. 
Nearer Plymouth are the fir-clad rocks of Crabtree, 
bearing on their summit the remains of a fort. At the 
base of the rock is the cottage retreat of D. Derry, 
Esq. A short distance nearer Plymouth we enter a 



SALTRAM, LARl BRIDGE, ETC. 131 

new road, occupying part of the land recovered from 
the Lary waters by the lofty mole which extends from 
gate to gate, and which, ha\ingbeen constructed by the 
Plymouth Embankment Company, was opened to the 
public on the 25th October, 1809. Here will be 
noticed the neat cottage dwellings of Lara Green. 
Further inland are the residences of E. Clarke, Esq. 
and G. Soltau, Esq. and the village of Lipson, through 
which passes the old Plymouth road. Still nearer 
Plymouth, above and below the old road, are Woodside ; 
Tothill ; Beaumont House, the residence of T. Bewes. 
Esq. M.P. ; and Green Bank, belonging to C. Tolcher, 
Esq. a zealous patron of the Arts, and the possessor, 
among other riches, of two remarkably fine pictures 
by Claude. 

A few additional notes are subjoined, descriptive of 
the country beyond Sal tram. Boringdon is situate at 
some distance north of the old London road. The house 
was the family mansion of the Earl of Morley's ancestors, 
before the building of Saltram, and though now occupied 
as a farm-house, still retains indication of its ancient 
importance. 

Near Boringdon Park are Elfordleigh, (the mansion 
of W. Langmead, Esq.) and Newnham Park, an ancient 
seat of the Strode family. The other leading residences 
of the vicinity, are Hemerdon, (G. Woollcombe, Esq.) 
— Goodamoor, (P. T. Treby, Esq.)— Beechwood, (R. 
Rosdew, Esq.) — Chaddlewood, (W. H. Symons, Esq.) 
&c. 

The most prominent object on the London road, after 
leaving Saltram at New Bridge, is the church of 
Plympton St. Mary, distinguished by a fair degree of 
architectural beauty, aud not less by the condition of 
cleanliness and good repair, for which it is indebted to 
the zealous curatorship of its present minister, the 
Rev. W. J. Coppard. It was originally the conventual 



132 straxNGer's glide. 

church of Plympton Priory,* founded in the year 1100, 
and acknowledged as the richest monastery in Devonshire. 
Its architectural style is the perpendicular Gothic, which 
prevailed from 1350 to 1450. This church in its widest 
part exhibits the unusual number of five aisles, making 
a transverse extent of 90 feet. The building wants 
altitude; but otherwise there is much to admire, par- 
ricularly the tower, which contains six fine bells. The 
most beautiful feature of the interior is the monument 
of Richard Stode, Esq. comprising an effigy, recumbent 
upon a richly sculptured base, and beneath a triple- 
arched canopy of bold design. " About 25 years ago, 
an ancient stone pulpit, panelled and carved, stood in 
the nave ; it was affixed to the second pier from the 
chancel, on the north side. Spiral stone steps led up 
to it, and it stood upon a stone pedestal. At that time 
the church was new seated, and it was thought necessary 
to alter the position of the pulpit, which was taken 
down broken to pieces and put under the sleepers of the 
flooring of the new pews ! A plain painted deal one 
now stands in the nave, somewhat nearer the chancel. " 
" So much," says Mr. Coppard, "for leaving the 
repairs of churches to the management of church- 
wardens, whose irreparable mischief among some of the 
most interesting features of our sacred edifices, we have 
daily reason to deplore ! I have much satisfaction in 
stating, that owing to the judicious exertions of the 
respected archdeacon of Totnes (Mr. Froude), a con- 
siderable improvement is manifest in most of the 
churches of this district ; and it is to be hoped that a 
different tone of feeling has been given to some of those 
who may be intrusted with future repairs. Yet it is to 
be feared, that in the annual changes of these officers, 
very few of them are capable of the undertaking ; there- 
fore might it not be advisable to appoint some person of 

* Some vestiges of Plympton Priory may still be traced 
adjoining the church-yard, where a dwelling-house and a mill 
are now called Priory, 



SALTRAM, LART bridge, etc. 133 

experience and judgment to superintend a certain num- 
ber of churches in a district, for the purpose of better 
carrying into effect the orders of the rural Dean, (where 
one is nominated) or to direct the repairs and alterations 
to be done in a proper manner?" 

Here are monuments recording the names of Symons, 
Ilayne, Woollcombe, &c. and an elegant piece of 
sculpture by De Laistre, a Parisian artist, to the memory 
of Henry Villiers Parker, Viscount Boringdon, the 
eldest son of Lord Morley by his first lady. 

Beyond Plympton Mary Church is the village of 
Ridge way ; to the north, the village of Colebrook ; and 
to the south, the village of Underwood. 

Adjoining Plympton Mary is the ancient Borough of 
Plympton, a stannary town, distinguished by its artificial 
mount, the remains of a castle, and the pride of having 
given birth to Sir Joshua Reynolds, whose father was 
master of Plympton grammar school. The school- 
building, with its gothic gables and sub-piazza will 
attract attention. In the Guildhall ^inscribed with the 
date of 1696), is a portrait of Reynolds by himself, and 
several ancestral portraits of the Treby family. 

The large square mansion east of the town, was 
built in 1718 by the Right Honourable George Treby, 
secretary at war. It still belongs to the family. There 
is nothiug worthy of observation in the church. 



134 



HAIL ROAD, BICKLEIGH VALE, AND 
DEWERSTONE. 



It is only on horseback, or on foot, that the scenes 
hereafter mentioned can be comfortably seen in continuous 
succession. The several principal objects may be sepa- 
rately visited in a carriage, or rail-road waggon ; but to 
all horsemen the author recommends as follows : — 

Proceed to Crabtree. Follow the rail-road (see page 
32) till you arrive at the arched entrance into the 

Tunnel, 

through which the eye pierces a subterranean length of 
1860 feet. Take the road to the left of the opening, 
and follow the ascent and descent of the hill, till you 
again reach the rail-road at the other extremity of the 
Tunnel. Follow on through the woods, which will 
shortly open on your right and discover a pleasing 
prospect, including glimpses of the river Plym far below, 
and the tree-clad hill of Saltram, &c. in the distance. 
Having here paused awhile, make reasonable use of 
whip or spur, until your natural admiration for scenic 
splendour shall instantly prompt you to draw in your 
reins : — 

Cann Quarry 
is before you ! 

With what justice this scene is deemed magnificent, 
the spectator is left to say. The Plym is seen in the 
profound below, and the fall of its salmon-weir distinctly 
heard. Broad masses of precipitous slate-rock are 
mingled with richly wooded acclivities ; and folding hills 
of green, backed by the barren heights of Dartmoor, 
complete the distant prospect. 

The rail-road should then be followed until you reach 
Fancy at the most recessed point of a " woody theatre/ 7 



RAIL ROAD, RICKLEIGII VALE, ETC. 135 

the opening perspective of which is finely commanded 
from the house, seen a short distance up the hill on the 
left. Instead of proceeding further along the rail-road, 
the stranger is recommended to descend through the 
gate, immediately opposite Fancy, and follow the road 
to the bed of the valley ; then turning to the left, he 
will thread the leafy mazes of the Plym, flowing past 
him on his right, until he arrive at Bickleigh Bridge, 
where he will quit, for a time, the river, and proceed 
along a rough and hilly road towards Shaugh. Close 
to Bickleigh Bridge he will find a road on the left, 
leading to Bickleigh Village and Church. The latter 
contains the monument and martial paraphernalia of 
Sir Nicholas Slanning, a royalist warrior. Here also 
are monuments recording the names of Heywood, Hunt, 
and Lopes. 

The traveller will at length descend into an open flat 
distinguished by venerable trees, and large masses 
of granite, scattered, as by some vast deluge, over its 
surface. Crossing this, he will put up his horse at the 
cottage and pause awhile upon Shaugh Bridge, where 

" The Cad o'er rocks white flashing roars 
To meet the lucid Plym." 

The union of the rivers is seen close to the bridge, from 
which the pyramidal Dewerstone rises, clothed in foliage. 
This is unquestionably a choice specimen of that rock 
and torrent scenery, for which Devonshire is so highly 
celebrated. Having crossed the bridge, the visitor 
should follow the road for about a quarter of a mile up 
the steep hill towards Shaugh church, and then turning 
off to the left, he will "plod his way" through bushes 
and granite blocks till, on reaching the brow of the 
descent, his admiring eye suddenly alights on the 
perpendicular mass of 

Dewerstone, 

raising its crest of granite to a noble altitude above the 
rushing torrent of the Cad, and exhibiting the most 



136 stranger's guide. 

striking contrasts of rocky baldness and richest verdure. 
At no great distance is Shaugh church, with a tower of 
hewn granite, surmounted with pinnacles. From the 
hill on which the church is situated the view is varied, 
extensive, and interesting, bounded by Plymouth Sound 
to the south. 

Having remounted his horse, the traveller proceeds 
homewards on the eastern side of the river Plym, 
ascending Shaugh hill, and passing along the brow of 
Bickleigh vale into Shaugh wood, through which he 
descends again to the river level. From hence, passing 
through Cann Quarry,* which formed so striking an 
object as he traversed the opposite heights on his out- 
ward journey, he soon after reaches the yet unexplored 
quarter of 

Fiym-bridge, 

where the vale suddenly expands from extreme narrow- 
ness into an open amphitheatre of wood and meadow. 
Jn this charming vicinity are the mansions of Leighum 
and Estover. A road through the meadows, on the 
eastern side of the Plym, conducts to a wood, and our 
traveller ultimately emerges from these regions of 
pastoral romance at New Bridge, on the high road, 
about 3 miles from Plymouth. 

* This noted Slate Quarry is now being worked upon an 
extended scale. The material it affords is of a most approved 
quality, and worthy of that increasing favour which it is so 
generally obtaining. 



K 2 



13? 



KITLEY, THE YEALM, &c. 



On the peninsular tract between the mouth of the 
Ply in and the estuary of the Yealm, and south of the 
new line of road from the Lary Bridge to Totnes, are 
Langdon Hall, the seat of C. Calmady, Esq. ; Wembury 
House, belonging to Sir E. Thornton ; the cottage 
residence of Thomas Lockyer, Esq. occupying an 
enchanting situation on the western acclivity of the 
Yealm ; and Coffleet, (the mansion of the Rev. R. Lane,) 
also situated on the bank of this beautiful river. 

Kitley, 

however, is the great "Lion" of the neighbourhood; 
important from the architectural character of the house, 
and from the extreme beauty of the grounds. The latter 
extend to a considerable distance north and south of the 
new London road, under which there is a tunnel to 
preserve the thoroughfare. The southern portion of the 
grounds project into the here expanded waters of the 
Yealm estuary, which has all the appearance of an 
inland lake. The northern division furnishes a delightful 
drive, extending nearly two miles from the house. The 
latter has been for the most part rebuilt by the present 
tasteful proprietor, E. P. Bastard, Esq. who has thus 
afforded a choice opportunity for the display of Mr. 
G. S. Repton's architectural talents. The exterior 
exhibits four, differing, but self-uniform fronts, in the true 
Elizabethan style. The hall, staircase, drawing-room, and 
library, are the more distinguished apartments ; and, in 
the saloon are some exquisite family portraits by 
Reynolds. The old masters are also represented by 
several choice examples. 

k 3 



138 stranger's guide. 

South of Kitley, separated from it by an arm of the 
river, is Puslinch, the residence of the Rev. J. Yonge, 
participating in the scenic beauties of the spot last 
mentioned ; and in the more southern vicinity is the 
secluded water-village of Newton Ferrers, the hamlet of 
Noss, and Membland House, the seat of J. Robertson, 
Esq. 

Before reaching Kitley, the high road passes through 
the truly rustic village of Brixton, in the church of which 
are several monuments to the Lanes, Woods, &c. 
Near the church is the neat and commodious residence 
of Henry Collins-Splatt, Esq. On the same road, 
beyond Kitley, is the village of Yealmpton looking 
down upon its church, to the south of which, is a 
quarried lime-stone rock, enclosing a " cavern of extra- 
ordinary extent." Tradition speaks of Ethelwold's 
palace at Yealmpton. The church contains monuments 
to the families of Crocker, Pollexfen, Copplestone, and 
Bastard. Yealm Bridge, (with its paper-mill) further 
east, will not fail to attract the notice of an artist's eye, 
at least. North of the road between this and Brixton, 
are Hareston and Lyneham, (belonging respectively to 
the families of Winter and Bulteel,) whose opposing 
woods line a secluded valley, watered by a branch 
stream of the Yealm. On the river between Yealmpton 
and Yealm Bridge is Torr, the residence of W. Holbe- 
ton, Esq. ; and, following the course of the river, we 
successively pass Lee-mill Bridge, on the upper Exeter 
road, Slade, Delamore, the village of Cornwood, and 
Blatchford, the seat of Sir J. L. Rogers, Bart. 



139 



THE ERME, IVY-BRIDGE, FLEET, cVc. 



Our remarks upon the Yealm have brought us the 
major part of the way between the Lary Bridge and 
Ermington, where the visitor's attention will be imme- 
diately drawn to the neat and cheerful appearance of 
the Fawn Inn. Independently of the good accommo- 
dation it affords, the main reason for recommending it, 
is its very eligible situation as being central amid the 
beauties of the Yealm. Ivy-bridge is unquestionably 
the more striking position of the two ; and, for a sojourn 
of any duration, it is more fitly to be recommended : 
but, desiring the satisfaction of those whose time is 
limited, we mention Ermington, as being mid-way 
between two extremities on the river's course that 
should be visited. 

Ermington church, conspicuously situated at a short 
distance north of the Hotel and Bridge, is the more 
remarkable from its leaning spire. Within is a hand- 
some recessed monument elaborately sculptured, with a 
brass effigy of one of the Stretchleigh family. Here are 
also memorials of the Sweetes, Geach, &c. 

Following the river (along its western bank) towards 
the sea, we pass through several pleasing meadows, 
until we pause to contemplate the scenic beauties of 
Sequels Bridge, over which passes the road to Mod- 
bury,* about 2 miles to the east. South-west of the 
Bridge, on a richly wooded eminence, is the mansion 
of Fleet, the principal seat of the Bulteel family, and 
pre-eminently distinguished by the charm of its situation, 

* A small market town, with a spacious church. Its spire 
is 134 feet high. Within is an interesting monument to one 
of the Champernowne family. Adjoining the church is an 
ancient chapel or chantry, which is now appropriated to the 
use of the grammar-school. 



140 STRANGER'S GUIDE. 

and the tasteful character of its pleasure grounds. The 
front seen from the Bridge, is a simple specimen of the 
Adam-school of architecture, now, happily, no more : 
but the entrance front, concealed from distant view by 
a charmingly disposed shrubbery, may be justly quoted 
as a fascinating example of the Tudoric style. From 
the eastern front the grounds decline to the river, which 
flows on in vallied seclusion, and is at length crossed by 
a wooden bridge. Here is an entrance into the woods 
on the east side of the Erme, along which (with Mr. 
Bulteel's kind permission) we will make a temporary 
retreat, following the embowered path until it bring us to 
the Hermitage, which, taken in conjunction with the 
poetic gloom of its situation close to the river below, is 
a " bit " not to be overlooked. Returning to the wooden 
bridge, we proceed onwards by a pleasant path, till the 
river expands into an estuary, and subsequently dis- 
charges its collected waters through Mothecombe harbour 
into Bigbury Bay, about 5 miles S.S.W. of Ermington. 
About a mile S.W. of Fleet house is Holbeton, in the 
church of which are monuments, recording the names 
of Perring and Bulteel; also an old monument with 
the hgure of an armed knight, and numerous effigies. 
South of Holbeton is Mothecombe house and hamlet. 
From a clifT on the western side of Mothecombe harbour 
projects a peninsula of many acres, called Mothecombe- 
back, consisting of an accumulation of sand and gravel, 
which has resisted the force of the waters from time 
immemorial, and has a fair annually held on it. 

The walk by the river from Ermington to Ivy-bridge, 
(about three miles), may be regarded as a portfolio of 
charming sketches, illustrating the genuine beauties of 
our river scenery, premising, that, until we arrive at 
Ivy-bridge, the merely " beautiful," apart from grandeur, 
is to be expected. 



I HE ERME, IVY-BRIDGE, FLEET, ETC. 141 

Ivy-bridge, 

on the upper London road, is distant from Plymouth 12 
miles. The village is of more than common size 
and respectability, owing to the convenience of its situa- 
tion, the salubrity of its air, and the attractive character 
of the rocks, woods, and torrent, which distinguish its 
immediate and north-extending vicinity. Here are an 
excellent Hotel, and numerous lodging-houses. A new 
bridge has lately been erected for the convenience of the 
stage coach ; but the veritable Ivy-bridge is still preserved 
for the lovers of the picturesque. It is the province of 
this work rather to direct the attention, than to rouse by 
verbal stimulus the enthusiasm of the tourist; and, if 
the powerful flood of old Erme's eloquence, graced with 
all the poetry of rock and foliage, 

' can't move the heart, 



Tongues surely may be dumb.' 3 

It need hardly be said, that the grandeur of the scene 
is much enhanced by preceding heavy rains ; though 
the place is unquestionably well worth seeing at ail 
times. The visitor is particularly urged to follow the 
northern course of the river, through the woods of its 
western bank. New combinations of the same romantic 
features will successively arise to induce him onward. 
Harford Bridge crosses the torrent about 2§ miles above 
Ivy-bridge, whence a road conducts over a common to 
Three Barrow Tor ; " a lofty elevation," says Mr. Rowe, 
u so named from three huge barrows, or karns, on its 
summit — supposed, from their vast size, to mark the 
tomb of some eminent warrior. Having inspected these 
tumuli with the attention they will not fail to excite as 
mementos of remote antiquity, we shall have leisure to 
enjoy the boundless landscape which this eminence 
commands : from Portland in Dorsetshire to the Lizard 
in Cornwall, and from the Blackdown hills in Somerset- 
shire to the skirts of Dartmoor on which we stand, we 



142 stranger's guide. 

behold a diversified scene, displaying in its extensive 
scope "the pomp of nature and the pride of man/' 
Behind, the lofty peaks, the rugged tors, and purple 
heaths of Dartmoor — in front, the whole South Hams, 
from the Teign to the Tamar, spreading like a map at 
our feet. The local beauties of the prospect are rich 
tracts of cultivated land, with verdent hedge-rows, 
villages, and " heaven-directed spires ; the winding 
estuary of the Yealm — the more capacious harbour of 
Plymouth Sound — the grove-crowned hill of Mount 
Edgcumbe — Plymouth indistinctly seen through its hazy 
atmosphere — and the azure expanse of the Channel 
majestically bounding the whole view to the south." 
The stranger will now return to Harford church, in 
which is an old altar tomb with a brass effigy, to 
T. Williams, Esq. 1564.; also a wooden memorial to 
Bishop Prideaux. Following the eastern bank of the 
river, he passes the parsonage at Lukesland Grove, and 
returns by Stowford to Ivy-bridge, 



143 



EXCURSION TO TREMATON CASTLE, 

.\ N D 

PORT ELIOT. 



Take a boat at North-corner, Devoiiport. In pro- 
ceeding up Hamoaze, the naval power of Great Britain 
will be palpably illustrated, by the vast assemblage of 
ships of war lying up " iu ordinary." Opposite Morice- 
town is Thanckes, the residence of Lord Graves, looking 
over a lawn which declines to the water's edge. Above 
Morice-town are the government Powder Magazines ; 
and, beyond, the estuary of Keyham lake. Above 
Thanckes is the marine village of Wilcove, situate at 
the head of an inlet, and "a favourite retreat of naval 
officers." In "doubling the cape" north of Wilcove, 
we catch a glimpse of Saltash and the Tamar's inland 
course, and pass by Beggar's Island, (a presumed retreat 
of the notorious Bampfylde Moore Carew, king of the 
beggars) into the mouth of the river Lynher. 

Ward-house commands, from its lofty site above the 
confluence of the two rivers, a prospect of vast variety. 
On the opposite bank of the Tamar, below Kinterbury, 
are the government gunpowder works. The town of 
Saltash is about a mile up the river, built on the steep 
acclivity rising therefrom. It possesses no object worthy 
of particular notice except its steam ferry or floating 
bridge, lately constructed by J. M. Rendel, Esq. 
engineer, (see page 95) A little beyond on the left is 
Anthony-house, belonging to the Rt. Hon. R. P. Carew, 
and much eulogised as it regards both mansion and 
grounds ; and the pictures contained in the former. 
An inlet opposite to Anthony-house leads up to 



144 stranger's guide. 



Trematon Castle, 

a conspicuous object not less interesting as an historical 
monument, than as the leading feature in a scene 
of extraordinary beauty. The views both of and 
from the castle keep and mound aro alike exquisite. 
The erection of the fortress is by some ascribed to 
Robert, Earl of Morton and Cornwall, who lived 
A.D. 1440. The area of the site includes rather more 
than an acre, surrounded by embattled walls six feet 
thick, of a circular form, and covered with ivy. The 
keep is at the north-west corner, on the summit of a 
conical mount. The walls of the keep are about ten 
feet thick, and rather more than thirty in height. This 
detached part of the fortress was anciently divided into 
apartments, and appears to have had a second floor, yet 
there is no appearance of windows ; so that the whole 
must have been lighted from the top, or by a small 
cavity in the centre. The entrance is at an arched door 
on the west, whence a winding path leads to a small 
sally-port. The most entire part of the buildings is the 
gateway, which consists of three strong arches, between 
which are grooves for the port-cullises. These arches 
support a square tower, containing an apartment, now 
converted into a museum for natural curiosities. The 
walls are covered with tapestry, of the most exquisite 
workmanship and beauty, and supposed to be the most 
valuable, and in the best preservation, of any in the 

kingdom. In the house, the residence of Tucker, 

Esq. are some valuable paintings, a curious organ, and 
a variety of curiosities. Pursuing the course of the 
Lynher, the groves of Shillingham form a pleasing feature 
on its banks. Ince castle, the seat of Edward Smith, 
Esq. is a square edifice with embattled walls and 
towers, romantically situated on a peninsula projecting 
from the northern bank. Having passed Ince, we con- 
tinue our voyage through the widest part of the Lynher, 



PORT ELIOT. 145 

till we reach the promontory of Earth. After doubling 
this point the channel is considerably narrowed, and 
shortly after leaving what is properly denominated the 
course of the Lynher, we proceed along the western 
branch of the estuary to St. Germans, and disembark 
at a picturesque landing-place beneath the finely- 
wooded cliffs of 

Fort Eliot. 

In addition to the scenic charms of this justly noted 
spot, are those of its two contiguous buddings, the 
church and mansion- The former derives great 
interest from having been once the Cathedral of the 
Western Diocese. It is said to have been built by 
Athelstan, who dedicated it to St. Germain, bishop of 
Auxerre, in France, which prelate, with Lupus, bishop 
of Troy, came into Britain in the year 429, for the pur- 
pose of extirpating the Pelagian heresy. On the re- 
moval of the episcopal dignity to Exeter, the manor 
was divided between the bishop and the prior of the 
convent at St. Germans ; and at the dissolution of the 
monasteries the church became parochial. The external 
appearance of the church is singular; but the visitor 
will observe, that both towers were once octagonal. 
The entrance door-way, as among the very choicest 
specimens of existing Norman architecture, merits 
particular attention. Within the church is a costly altar 
tomb, by Rysbrack, to the memory of Edward Eliot, 
Esq. who died 1722. The deceased is represented on 
a couch, in the Roman costume ; in front, his lady is 
seated in the attitude of contemplative sorrow ; and the 
whole is adorned with figures of cherubims and sur- 
mounted by the family arms. Here are also monuments 
of the Glanvill, Trevanion, and Movie families. In the 
south aisle is a low ornamented recess, supposed to 
have contained the effigy of an abbot. Another recess 
is called 'the bishop's throne ;' and among other rem- 
nants of antiquity preserved in the old tower, is a 
L 



146 stranger's guide. 

curious oak chair. The altar, formed of oak, and of 
fine workmanship, was the splendid donation of the 
Eliots ; as was also the marble font. An inscription 
on the gallery at the west end, records the names of the 
bishops of the see. The original burial ground, no 
longer used for a cemetery, is converted into a lawn, 
separating the church from Port Eliot 'house ; and 
being in a mild and sheltered situation, the vegetation 
of the shrubbery and gardens attains a great degree of 
luxuriance. Port Eliot house is partly modern, and 
partly formed by the remains of the old Priory. The 
dining-room was formerly the monk's refectory. In the 
various apartments are select pictures by the best masters, 
old and modern. The recent additions to the house 
have been made by the present noble proprietor the 
Earl St. Germans. 

The scenery at Notter Bridge, N.E. of St. Germans, 
is accounted romantic. As an object for observation on 
the voyager's return, we may particularize the woods of 
Sheviock opposite Earth farm, through which there is a 
direct way to Sheviock church, built in the 14th century 
by the Dawnay family. The monuments are unusually 
interesting. Among them are the effigies of Sir Edward 
Dawnay, and his Lady ; the figure of an armed knight 
with a lion at his feet, &c. 

As a postscript to this excursion, we may mention, 
that St. Germans may betaken in the way from Devon- 
port to Liskeard, diverging from the high road at 
Trebow mill. Much of the Liskeard road is beautiful, 
varied as it is with numerous views of the Lynher river 
and its branches. Liskeard, about i 7 miles from Tor- 
point, is a small town with an excellent inn, a good 
market and respectable neighbourhood. The Eliza- 
bethan residence, north of the town, has been recently 
erected by W. Glencross, Esq , from designs by the 
author. 

South of Liskeard is the small sea port of Looe, 
which, according to Hitchins and Drew " taken in con- 



ST. neot's, etc. 147 

nection with its river, bridge, and town, on each side of 
the creek, its steep acclivities, winding vales, towering 
hills, and pendant gardens, its island rising from the 
sea, and the waves that break upon its shores, exhibits, 
perhaps, within a narrow compass, one of the most 
picturesque and captivating scenes that the shores of 
Cornwall can present." 

St. Neots, a few miles N.W. of Liskeard, is said 
to derive its name from Neotus, the brother of Alfred 
the great, who died here at the latter part of the 8th 
century, and was removed to St. Neots, in Huntingdon, 
where he also left his name. The church was formerly 
dedicated to St. Guerir, and it is said, that Alfred being 
sick, prostrated himself in prayer before the altar of the 
saint, and was restored. It is an interesting structure, 
more particularly remarkable for its painted windows, 
which have lately been perfectly restored, and are 
accurately delineated in a quarto volume recently 
published. 

One window exhibits the history of the creation, with 
a label, in gothic letters, to each representation ; another 
describes the deluge ; a third the legend of St. George ; 
a fourth a series of representations from the legendary 
history of St. Neot. The others appear to have been 
embellished with figures of the saints. 

L 2 



148 



EXCURSION TO TAVISTOCK, &c. 



Tavistock, by the high road, is only 15 miles north of 
Plymouth : but the stranger is recommended to proceed 
by the irregular and circuitous route hereafter laid down, 
and which will occupy him the whole day. He will 
then sleep at Tavistock, either one, two, or three nights, 
as time will allow ; understanding that this town is the 
centre of a neighbourhood particularly distinguished by 
objects of pictorial beauty or historic interest. 

Whether from Plymouth or Devonport, the traveller 
should proceed along the Saltash road (which will open 
to him several views of the Tamar, and town of Saltash) 
until he descend to the turnpike at Weston Mill, a rural 
seclusion of too genuine character to escape his notice. 
Asceiiding thence, he will journey onward through the 
cottage settlement of King's Tamerton, whence he 
catches a glimpse of the river Lynher branching west- 
ward from the distant Tamar. While this is writing 
a new line of road from Plymouth and Devonport to 
Saltash is in progress. (See page 97.) 

The loftily situated village of St. Budeaux claims parti- 
cular remark. From the high ground, east and west of the 
Church, is seen a prospect of singular extent and mag- 
nificence, including a broad expanse of the Tamar, which 
here assumes the character of a noble lake. At 
St. Budeaux, the traveller will inquire his readiest way 
to Tamerton Foliot. This village contains a number of 
very excellent houses, inhabited by genteel families, who 
have displayed their taste in selecting, as a place of 
residence, one of the most beautiful villages in Devonshire. 
The church is a neat edifice. In the north aisle is a 
monument to the memory of John Copleston, Esq. and 
Susanna his wife, with their effigies in rich attire. Near 
the above is a sumptuous monument, of various kinds of 
marble, to Copleston Bampfylde, who died at an early 



ST. BUDEAUX, BUCKLaND ABBEY, ETC. 149 

age : he is represented as engaged in study, and below are 
elaborate inscriptions, in Latin and Greek, perpetuating 
his talents and virtues. An elegant monument of white 
marble, surmounted by a sepulchral lamp, is inscribed 
to the Radcliffes, ancestors of the Rev. Walter Radcliffe, 
of Warleigh. Maristow, the charming seat of Sir Ralph 
Lopes, Bart, is situate at the inner extremity of the 
Tavy estuary — at the mouth of this estuary is Warleigh 
House. Further up the estuary is the church of 
Beer Ferrers, containing several interesting monumen- 
tal effigies. This neighbourhood is celebrated for its 
lead mines, its strawberry gardens and cherry orchards. 
It were gratuitous to call attention to the beauties of 
Maristow. The house is observed on the right, in an 
extensive lawn declining gently to the banks of the river : 
the principal entrance, between two wings, commands 
the estuary and the lofty ridges on the Beer side of the 
Tavy, finely clothed in thick wood. The house is 
spacious and elegant. A domestic chapel, neatly fitted 
up, is attached, where service is occasionally per- 
formed by the officiating minister of Bickleigh. The 
walks through the grounds extend to a considerable 
distance, affording at many different points interesting 
prospects over a bold and woody tract : the tide has 
been driven back from a considerable portion ofland at 
the foot of the lawn, by means of an embankment. 

Close to Maristow is the small village of Lophill, 
with its mill, and other rustic accompaniments. 
Beyond is the romantic village of Milton, and 
further on Buckland Abbey, one of the seats of the 
Drake family. The manor was originally dedicated to 
the emolument of the church by the Countess of Baldwin 
de Rivers, Earl of Devon; and in the year 1298, a 
fraternity of Cistercian monks was transplanted from the 
Isle of Wight to the convent at this spot; the revenues 
of which were large. This valuable domain was pur- 
chased in the reign of Elizabeth, by the great Sir Francis 
Drake, and has remained in the possession of his 



150 stranger's guide. 

descendants to the present time. The house has under- 
gone various alterations, but sufficient remnants of 
antiquity exist to make it an object of interest. The 
principal front towards the north is surmounted by a 
square massive-looking tower. The hall, now used as a 
billiard-room, has a handsome mosaic floor ; the pannels 
and ceiling are sculptured with a variety of devices. 
Here are preserved a number of family portraits, and the 
sword and buckler of Sir Francis Drake ; in the other 
apartments are the drum used by that commander in his 
warlike expeditions, and the folio black-letter bible, 
which proved his best companion in the voyage round the 
world. Extensive vestiges of former buildings attest the 
ancient magnificence of the abbey , but the most perfect 
remnant of the former edifice is a turret in the court-yard, 
battlemented, but now roofed in and used as a pigeon- 
house. A pleasing walk through the grounds conducts 
to the salmon weir on the Tavy, amidst wood and river 
prospects of the most picturesque and imposing character. 
A narrow road leads from the Abbey to the village of 
Buckland Monachorum, pleasantly situated amidst 
orchards, hedges, and trees. The church is a handsome 
structure, with a lofty tower, turrets, and pinnacles. 
The interior contains several monuments, particularly of 
the Heathfields and Drakes ; but our attention will be 
chiefly directed to one beautifully executed in marble, by 
Bacon, to the memory of George Augustus Eliot, Baron 
Heathfield of Gibraltar, general of his majesty's forces, 
and governor of Gibraltar. He died in 1790, aged 
seventy-two. The history of his heroic defence of the 
important fortress which he commanded is known to 
the whole world, and some of the circumstances are 
detailed in four bas reliefs on the monument. The 
other embellishments are Britannia, with the gate of a 
fortress, inscribed, plus ultra ; a child, with a key, a 
palm branch, and a shield ; and above, a medallion 
portrait of the deceased general. Half-a-mile west of 
Buckland, the traveller will wind round a steep descent 



MORWELL ROCKS, ETC. 151 

to Denham Bridge, which here crosses the Tavy in, 
perhaps, its most romantic passage. Both above and 
below the Bridge the scenery is, for a considerable, 
distance, singularly beautiful Hatch Mill and the 
" Virtuous Lady n Mine are noted objects on its course, 
north of the bridge. Ascending the western steep, the 
traveller will proceed onwards, bearing always to the 
right until he reach Morwell Down. This he will cross 
in a N.VV. direction, and reach Morwell House, now a 
farm, but originally the hunting seat of the monks of 
Tavistock. Here he may put up his horse and walk 
on foot throngh the field to a small wood, whence he 
will suddenly emerge upon the dizzy platform of a 
perpendicular crag, and, if we mistake not, at the same 
moment rapturously exclaim, 

"Sublime and beautiful !" 
Far below winds the Tamar, encircling the domain of 
Harewood, (the seat of SirSalisburyTrelawny, Bart. M. P.) 
beyond which is Calstock church. In the front distance 
is Hingston Down. Above, below, around, and extend- 
ing far onwards, are the fearful rocks of Morwell, 
intermingled with underwood, and impressing with 
admiration even those who may have traversed the 
Alpine pass. 

At the base of the rocks is Morwellham New Quay, 
where there is a small but respectable inn, affording 
good accommodation of every kind. Vessels of some 
burden navigate the Tamar thus far, and, together with 
the rail waggons, water wheels and mining machinery, 
give much interest and animation to the scene. Behind 
is an excavated way leading to the foot of an inclined 
plane, 240 feet high, by which a communication is 
effected between the river below and the Tavistock 
canal above. The latter is carried through a tunnel 
extending near two miles under Morwell Down !* At 

* This great undertaking was commenced in 1803, and after 
the incessant labour of fourteen years, was completed in 1817. 



152 stranger's guide. 

some distance beyond the Quay, is Weir Head, where 
a fall of the river impedes further navigation, and gives 
added beauty to a scene, otherwise most beautiful. 
Still further up is " New Bridge," clad in the ivied 
garb of age, highly picturesque as an object, and 
serviceable as part of the high road between Tavistock 
and Callington, in Cornwall. It may here be stated, 
that the prospect of Morwell rocks from the Cornish 
side of the Tamar is singularly fine. 

Tavistock lies about five miles N.E. of Morwellham ; 
and, anticipating the fatigue of the traveller, we leave 
him to find his way there as best he may, and to gain by 
a night's repose, fresh strength for the morrow. Should 
it be agreeable to remain at Morwellham, a favourable 
opportunity is thereby afforded of seeing that beautiful 
portion of the Tamar between the Weir head and 
Pentilly, including Cotehele woods and house, (see 
page 168 J 

Tavistock, 

(situated on the Tavy, 15 miles from Plymouth, the 
property of the Duke of Bedford, to whose eldest son it 
gives the title of Marquis,) is attractive to the tourist 
on account of its beautiful and interesting vicinity, and 
as containing the remains of a celebrated abbey, founded 
in 961. The gate house is still extant, and several 
complete buildings near it. At the back of the Bedford 
Hotel are also many interesting fragments, testifying the 
original beauty and extent of the Abbey. Of the con- 
ventual church nothing remains, except an arched 
fragment in the church yard. The church, dedicated to 
St. Eustachius, contains a handsome orgau, and monu- 
ments to Sir J. Fitz, and Judge Glanville : also some 
human bones of extraordinary size, which were found 
in a stone coffin dug out of the ruins of the abbey, 
supposed to be the remains of Adulph, who was 
described by William of Malmsbury as being of such 
gigantic stature that he could stride over rivers ten feet 



TAVISTOCK, ETC, 153 

wide ; arguing that the " rivers " in his time were 
small and the men large. Here are two picturesque 
bridges : the more eastern one forms part of a most 
beautiful picture when viewed from the walk below the 
Weir, or fall of the Tavy, at the back of the hotel. 
This river presents a truly imposing aspect, when, 
swollen by heavy rains, it rushes with savage fury over 
its bed of granite rocks. 

The Bedford Motel presents an exterior of modern 
gothic example rarely to be met with in the smaller 
provincial towns. The ball room within is worthy of 
notice : nor must we omit stating, that Mr. Foulston 
has in Tavistock, as well as at Plymouth, given sterling 
proof of his professional accomplishments. The lecture 
room and library, occupying parts of the old abbey 
buildings, have been also renovated and fitted up by 
Mr. Foulston. The literary institution is zealously and 
liberally supported by the talents and subscriptions of 
the inhabitants, and is on the most friendly footing with 
the Athenaeum of Plymouth.* 



* " Tavystoke," says Pvisdon, " is the chief place upon 
Tavye's banks, where, in the dayes of Edgar, the first un- 
resisted monarch of this lande, Orgarius, Earl of Devon, kept 
his court ; the echo of whose faire daugdter Elfleda's heauty 
sounded so loude in the king's ears, that it caused him to 
employ Ethelwald, his minion, to woo her in his behalfe, to be 
dignified with the title of a queene ; but, as sometyme it 
falleth out, there is falsehoode in fellowshipp, this Earle sued 
unto her for himselfe, and that with good liking of her father, 
so as the king would consent, unto whom he returned this 
answer, that ' the lady came farr short of such perfection as 
fame gave out, and in noe wise for feature fitt for a king ;' 
whereupon Edgar, mistrusting noe double dealing, soone con- 
sented, and Orgarius gave his daughter to Ethelwald in 
marriage ; after which her beauty was more liberally spoken 
of than before ; whereof king Edgar taking notice, came into 
Devonshire under colour of hunting to visit Duke Orgarius ; 
which being apprehended by Ethelwald, he discovered the 
truth to his lady, and earnestly besought her to save his life 
from the king's danger j but she, shewing herself a true 



154 stranger's guide. 

The principal " lions" in this neighbourhood are 
Endsleigh, and Lydford : but it must be understood, 
that the Dartmoor scenery diverging N.N.E. and S.E. 
of Tavistock, is replete with every variety between 
verdant luxuriance and stony barrenness. The course 
of the Tavy towards its source is particularly noted. 
Lydford is distant from Tavistock about five miles. Its 
distinguishing features are its torrent scenery and castle. 
Formerly important as a great tin mart, and as the place 
where the Stannary courts were held, its present 
insignificance becomes interesting as a curiosity. 
Ethelred II. had a mint at Lydford, some coins of 
which are still preserved. In the reign of the con- 
queror it sent members to parliament — it is now a 
miserable village of cottages, with a small church, and 
of its former state retaining only the ruins of its 
castle keep. 

Proceeding from Tavistock over Heathfleld Down, 
the tourist arrives at the foot of Brent Tor, a conoidai 
rock of granite, crowned with its miniature church, and 
conspicuous as a land mark from all parts of the sur- 
rounding country. The church is said to have been 
erected as a grateful offering by some mariners, who, 
having escaped shipwreck, vowed to build a church 
upon this, the land mark, by which they were enabled 
safely to steer into Plymouth sound. The church 
(St. Michael's) is 37 feet long by 14 feet wide. On a 
tablet opposite the door is inscribed " Upon this rock 
will I build my church." A panoramic view from the 
summit will well repay the toil of ascent. 

woman, desired nothing more than the thing forbidden, dressing 
herself with costlie ornaments to attend the coming of the 
king, whom, with an amiable grace, she entertained ; which 
so enflamed his desires that, palliating his affection for the 
present, he went forth an hunting, where, at a place called 
YVillverley, since Warlewood, the earle was found slaine with 
an arrow (as some will, others with a javelin), and shortly 
after king Edgar tooke fayre Elfleda for his queene." 



LIDFORD, ETC. 155 

Proceeding onwards, about 2 miles, the traveller 
arrives in the vicinity of a cascade, not so remarkable 
from its body of water, as from the depth of its fall, 
and the secluded and beautiful character of the scenery 
around. A guide will be necessary to conduct the 
visitor to the best point of observation, which is approach- 
able by a circuitous descent. 

Regaining the road, he will proceed towards Lydford 
until he arrives within about a quarter of a mile S. of 
the village. A hollow murmuring, as of a caverned 
torrent awakens his attention, and increases in loudness 
until he arrives upon a small bridge of rough masonry, 
which, being hedged in on either side, would seem to 
span the superficial stream of a common brook, but for 
the mysterious noise beneath. He looks over the 
parapet, and indistinctly perceives through the thickly 
entwining foliage, the torrent of Lyd furiously rushing 
over the rugged bed of a narrow chasm eighty feet 
below ! Risdon, in describing the bridge, observes, 
" the river is here gathered into such a streight by the 
fretting of the earth between the rocks, that it seemeth 
to cavern itself as loath to see the desolation of the 
place. It maketh such an hideous noise, that being 
only heard and not seen, it causeth a kind of fear to the 
passengers, seeming to them that look down to it a deep 
abyss, and may be uumbered among the wonders of this 
kingdom." 

This spot has been the scene of more than one suicide. 
Perhaps the most distressing instance is that of a poor man 
of the neighbouring village, who, being visited with tem- 
porary fits of insanity, contrived to elude the vigilance 
of his attendants, and leaping naked out of his chamber 
window, ran yelling down to the bridge, over the parapet 
of which he threw himself into the roaring abyss beneath. 
Another story exists of a gentleman, Captain Williams, 
of Exeter, who, being involved in pecuniary embarrass- 
ments, resolved on self-destruction, and fixed on Lydford 
bridge for the completion of his horrible purpose. On 



156 stranger's guide. 

his arrival at the bridge he endeavoured to make his 
horse leap over the parapet, which not being able to 
effect, he dismounted, threw his saddle into the yawning 
gulf, and then himself. An anecdote is also related of 
a London traveller, who, in passing the village during a 
very dark and inclement night, was much surprised by 
an unaccountable bound which his horse made in the 
middle of his career. At Tavistock he was informed 
that Lydford bridge had given way the night preceding, 
and then he recollected, with a shudder, that the strange 
leap which his horse had taken must have been across 
the bridgeless chasm. 

Ascending from the bridge, the church is passed on 
the left, and the stranger, entering the once important 
borough of Lydford, proceeds to inspect all that is left 
of a castle, the history of which includes some anecdotes 
of cruelty, parallel with those of the " Bridge of Sighs " 
and dungeons of Venice. On a mound, at the end of 
an area formerly surrounded by a wall and fosse, stands 
the shell of the " donjon keep," 50 feet square, and 
40 feet high. In the centre of the thick walls are stone 
staircases, leading to rooms whose floors are gone. In 
this castle used to be held the Stannary Courts, which 
had the power of trying and punishing persons who 
offended against the laws of the Stannaries. The 
dungeons of the castle were so bad as to give rise to the 
adage — "Lydford law punishes first and tries after." 
Criminals were detained here a month, year, or longer, 
a goal delivery taking place only once in ten years ; 
which circumstance was complained of by petition in 
the reign of Edward III. who issued a commission to 
redress this grievance. In 1512, Richard Strode, Esq. 
member of parliament for the borough of Plympton 
Earle, having exerted himself to procure an act to 
prevent the blocking up of harbours by the operations 
of stream works, was prosecuted by the tinners at their 
court held at Crockern-tor, and sentenced to pay a 
severe fine. On his refusal to comply with the penalty, 



LIDFORD, ETC. 157 

he was confined in the loathsome dungeons of Lydford 
castle for more than three weeks, heavily ironed, and 
fed on bread and water. 

Considerable traces of ancient buildings were to be 
seen at Lydford when Risdon wrote his Survey of 
Devon, (about the year 1630). This author says " they 
can shew you where the gates stood, and also the 
foundation of the walls that encircled it, (the town) 
compacted of moorstone and lime, which they lighted 
on as they digged their fields. v 

About a mile from the castle, on the common, is 
Kate's fall, where the Lyd rushes in its full body over a 
rocky descent of 30 feet. It is said to have derived its 
name from the melancholy fate of a poor market woman, 
who, attempting to urge her horse across the river, 
above the fall, w T as carried down the stream, and hurled 
into death by the cascade. The horse also suffered the 
same fate ; and " having paniers, remained for some 
time pressed in the narrow channel " at the top of the 
fall. 

To vary his return, it is recommended that the 
tourist proceed by a cross way to the high road, between 
Oakhampton and Tavistock. Having reached it, he 
need not be told his course homeward is southerly. 
On his left is the rising ground of Dartmoor. As he 
approaches Tavistock, the scenery becomes more varied 
and interesting. Leaving Brent Tor distant on his right, 
he will pass through the busy districts of Wheal Friend- 
ship and other extensive mines, yielding tin, copper, &c. 
Descending thence, he overlooks the progress of the 
Tavy through the valley on his left, and, at length, 
reaching the level of its stream, passes Hazeldon, the 
residence of C. V. Bridgman, Esq. designed by the 
author, and proceeds, between Park Wood House, 
close on his left, and Mount Tavy, on the opposite side 
of the river, into Tavistock. 

The architectural character of Park W T ood House will 
not fail to attract notice. It is from Mr. Foulston's 
M 



158 stranger's guide. 

designs, and belongs to the Rev. W. Evans, (Unitarian 
minister) whose lady and daughter have here established 
a boarding school. Mount Tavy, attractive by its tree- 
clothed elevation and the neat mansion on its summit, 
is the property of John Carpenter, Esq. 



159 



ENDSLEIGH. 

Endsleigh, the cottage retreat of His Grace the Duke 
of Bedford, is unequalled by any other example of the 
kind that has come within the author's observation. 
It is distant a pleasant drive of about seven miles from 
Tavistock. Leaving the town in a N.W. direction we 
follow the Launceston road (observing in our way the 
neat residence of — Wilson, Esq. and others, as we 
proceed) until our more decided attention is arrested 
by the modern gothic elevation of the Milton Abbot 
free school on the right, and two corresponding 
examples of cottage design on the left. Beyond these 
at a short distance, is seen the village and church of 
Milton Abbot, which formerly appertained to the 
manor of Tavistock Abbey, and is now the property 
of the Duke of Bedford. The school building alluded 
to, was erected by His Grace. 

Passing between the two Lodges aforesaid, we enter 
the rustic domain of Endsleigh, and follow an agreeable 
drive to the cottage entrance at the back. The usual 
permission having been obtained, we first survey the 
interior of the Cottage, under the guidance of the house- 
keeper. Of the various apartments, the dining room 
claims most particular notice — not only as regards its 
elegantly appropriate decorations, but also in respect 
to the prospect from its " emblazoned window," which 
overlooks the lengthened perspective of a noble terrace, 
and a variety of charming objects, near and remote, 
above and far below. The Cottage has been built from 
designs by Sir J. Wyatville, and exhibits all the prouder 
varieties of an humble style. The terrace is perfect in 
beauty — enclosed on one side by a bank of shrubs and 
flowers, and open on the other to a mead below, 
shelving towards the Tamar, from the opposite side of 
which the Cornish shores rise to a considerable elevation. 
m 2 



160 stranger's guide. 

The view, looking down the river upon the woods on 
the Endsleigh side, is enchanting. A walk through these 
woods, as far as the Swiss Cottage, is a positively en- 
joined duty of the day; nor must the Grotto at the end 
of the Terrace escape observation. The principal 
feature in the secluded walks at the back of the house, 
is the Dairy, a bijou of its kind. 

Should circumstances permit, the stranger may be 
gratified by extending his journey to Launceston. At 
some distance beyond Milton Abbot, he will diverge 
from the old into a new line of road, which conducts, 
by an easy descent, down the side of a valley to 
Lowleigh Bridge, the first view of which, on winding 
round the excavated road-way is of distinguished beauty. 

About three miles beyond is the ancient borough of 
Launceston, approached by a road of steep descent, 
whence the lofty remains of its castle above, and ancient 
gate below, present an appearance singularly picturesque. 
Opposite the south gate, is another on the northern side 
of the town, from which a fearfully steep road leads to 
the bottom of the hill, on the brow of which the town 
is situated. Till lately this was the thoroughfare : but 
a new road has been constructed to the great accommoda- 
tion of coach and cart trafic. 

The castle, (taken from its Saxon possessor by 
William I. and conferred upon the Conqueror's half- 
brother), remained the strong hold of the Earls of 
Cornwall until the time of Edward III. During the 
civil wars it was successively assailed and defended by 
Charles and the parliamentary forces. Such was the 
acknowledged strength of the fortress in early times, that 
the monastic clergy congregated' around it for safety. 
This accounts for the number of chapels that existed 
within the fortress. The chapel of St. Mary Magdelene 
was made the parish church in 1520; nor is it often we 
observe such a profusion of rich carved work as we 
have to admire on the exterior of this building. The 
visitor will, of course, not fail to see it. Within are 



LAUNCESTON, ETC. 161 

monuments, bearing the names of Lawrence, Pyper, 
and Vyvyan. 

The Castle ruins are extensive, and highly picturesque 
in certain select points of view. If the mound be 
wholly artificial, it is a gigantic work. The circular 
Keep of concentric towers, the one within, and above 
the other, is an interesting curiosity and striking object. 
It is worthy of examination, and approachable without 
much difficulty. According to Borlase, " the whole 
keep is 93 feet in diameter ; it consisted of three wards : 
the wall of the first ward was not quite three feet thick ; 
and therefore, I think, could only be a parapet for 
soldiers to fight from, and defend the brow of the hill. 
Six feet within it stands the second wall, which is 
twelve feet thick, and has a staircase three feet wide, at 
the left hand of the entrance, running up to the top of 
the rampart : the entrance of this stair-case has a round 
arch of stone over it. Passing on to the left, you find 
the entrance into the innermost ward, and on the left of 
that entrance a winding stair-case conducts you to the 
top of the innermost rampart; the wall of which is 10 
feet thick, and 32 feet high from the floor ; the inner 
room is 1 8 feet 6 inches diameter ; it was divided by a 
planking into two rooms." Opposite the Launceston 
hill is another equally steep, on which is situate the 
church of St. Stephens. At the back of this is Werring- 
ton Park, a seat of the Duke of Northumberland. 

About 9 miles S.S.W. of Launceston, is the famous 
Cheese Wring, a pile of granite stones, exhibiting a sin- 
gular example of accidental construction. The stones, 
seven or eight in number, increase in size as they mount 
upwards, the superior blocks seeming to occupy a very 
unstable position. The height of the pile is from 30 to 
35 feet; and its strength is sufficiently proved by its 
having, perhaps from the subsiding of the deluge, braved 
the furious storms which range with singular violence 
over the face of this barren moor-land. It should also 
be stated that the Cheese Wring is accompanied by 
m 3 



162 stranger's guide. 

several other piles of granite, scarcely less curious in 
form and position ; while the general scene around may 
be mentioned as a most fitting haunt for the Genius of 
Desolation. 

About a mile S. of the Cheeswring is a Druidical 
remain, called the Hurlers, an assemblage of rude stone 
pillars, formed into three circles, and believed by the 
peasantry to have once been men, who were petrified for 
hurling (a common Cornish sport) on the sabbath-day. 

Rather more than a mile South of the Hurlers is the 
church of St. Cleer, a very handsome building ; and at 
a small distance from it is the celebrated well, to which 
the power of effecting miraculous cures, was formerly 
ascribed. 

From hence we proceed to Tavistock, through Cal- 
lington. The latter, though small, is an improving 
town, and is distinguished by its weekly market. 
An extensive market court, surrounded with slated sheds 
on granite columns, together with a market inn, large 
corn chamber, and weighing room, have been lately erect- 
ed by Alexander Baring, Esq. (Lord of the Manor), from 
designs by the author. 

Passing over Hengeston Down, we leave on our left 
Kitt hill, surmounted by a wind machine, employed in 
working the pump of a tin mine. At the east end of 
the down we come in view of Morwell rocks, before 
noticed as a striking picture viewed from this quarter. 
New Bridge will also please as a picturesque object 
beautifully situated. Three miles further to the N.E. 
we arrive at Tavistock. 



163 



EXCURSION— DARTMOOR. 

A road, leading East from Tavistock, conducts into 
the heart of Dartmoor. This dreary but interesting 
waste comprises not less than 130,000 acres. The 
legends of the moor speak of" winged serpents" in the 
low, and wolves in the high lands : also of wild men 
noted for their swiftness of foot. The surface of the 
moor is undulating, and varies in height from 400 to 
2,100 feet above the sea. Mean height 1,782 feet. It is 
20 miles long; and in some parts 11 wide. In its 
numerous furrows are collected the waters which supply 
the rivers Dart, Teign, Tavy, Taw, Plym, Cad, Erme, 
Yealm, and 48 minor streams. Though generally pre- 
senting the severest expression of barrenness, it has its 
vallies and skirting declivities of great beauty. The 
scenery about Drewsteignton on the N.E., and Holne 
Chase on the S.E., is romantic in the extreme ; and in 
many other quarters of the forest, where verdure and 
beauty are not, there is yet harvest for the antiquary. 
In 1827-28 the Rev. S. Rowe, Mr. Woollcombe, Col. 
C. II . Smith, and Mr. Prideaux, explored these com- 
paratively "unknown regions;" and the issue of their 
joint researches, drawn up by Mr. Rowe, forms a most 
interesting paper in the Transactions of the Plymouth 
Institution. 

" On the moor," says Mr. Rowe, " and within its 
precincts, are to be found examples of druidical 
antiquity, including the sacred circle — avenues — the 
cromlech — the kistvaen — the rock idol — rock basin — 
monumental pillar — cairn or barrow dwellings and 
trackways." The most perfect cromlech is at Drews- 
teignton ; but, without exceeding the measure of a day's 
excursion, several interesting remains may be seen. 
Between 4 and 5 miles from Tavistock is Merivale 
Bridge, where the remains of an ancient British village 



164 stranger's guide. 

claim the notice of the tourist. " Here is a pair of 
druidical avenues, parallel to each other, 105 feet apart, 
running East and West; the longest 1,143 feet, the 
shortest 792. The stones of which they are formed are 
scarcely two feet above the ground, placed at irregular 
distances, but generally about 3^ feet apart. The short- 
est terminates in a circle, and the longest has a circle at 
midlength." Near these parallelitha are a fallen crom- 
lech, tombstone, barrow, circle, maen or obelisk ; and, 
nearer the road, the remains of a hut village, and other 
fragments. Pursuing the road due east, we pass the 
head of the Devonport leat, and arrive at Two Bridges, 
from which, a mile distant, rises Crockern Tor, accounted 
the centre of the moor, and celebrated as the seat of 
Stannary justice, — Lydford Castle being that of Stannary 
punishment. Even within the memory of the now pass- 
ing generation courts have been held here ; and, till 
some years back, the judge's seat, juror's bench and 
court table, were to be seen distinctly hewn in the moor- 
stone on the summit of the Tor. Near Crockern Tor, 
on the N.W. is " the lonely wood of Wistman," the 
solitary relic of Dartmoor forest, consisting of decrepit 
oaks, battling as it were with granite rocks ; but so 
stinted in nourishment as to attain a growth not higher 
than seven feet. 

Retreat we now to Prince Town — a town by no means 
princely, at least in its present state, which is that of a 
poor deserted village. The town simply originated 
in the erection of the prison-of- war adjoining, but having 
lost this attraction for persons in different branches of 
trade, many of its dwellings are now deserted. The 
prison consists of seven distinct buildings of two stories 
in each, for the hammocks of the prisoners, and a large 
loft over for the purpose of exercise in inclement weather. 
Adjoining is the hospital, with spacious and airy wards, 
dispensary, &c. and a very complete cooking-house and 
laundry. The lofty wall which surrounds the buildings, 
forms a circle nearly a mile in circumference, inclosing 



PRINCE TOWN. 165 

an area of thirty acres. The great gate on the western 
side is arched over with immense blocks of granite, on 
which is engraven the appropriate inscription — Parcere 
Subjectis. Immediately opposite is the ample reser- 
voir, from winch the whole establishment is supplied 
with water. The prison has been known to contain 
nine thousand six hundred men at one time ; and the 
barracks adjoining are well adapted to the accommoda- 
tion of a number of troops sufficient for the secure cus- 
tody of the prisoners. A neat church has been erected 
at Prince-town, where service is performed everySunday. 
Tor Koyal, the occasional residence of the late Sir 
Thomas Tyrwhitt, is situated south of the town. This 
enterprising gentleman succeeded in rearing some planta- 
tions, and in redeeming a portion of cultivated land from 
the surrounding waste ; the further improvement of 
which will be considerably facilitated by the completion 
of the iron railway from Prince-town to Plymouth. 

If, in returning to Tavistock, the traveller can contrive 
to see the course of the river Walkham, between 
Hockworthy bridge and Vixen Tor, he will find ample 
opportunity for the employment of his pencil. 

The course of the Mew or Meavy, is beyond the reach 
of one day's excursion from Tavistock ; but it is a favor- 
ite with all lovers of the picturesque. Its springs, a 
short distance S.W. of Prince Town, and pursuing its 
course through a wild valley, passes the weir head of the 
Plymouth Leat ; half a mile below which is Sheepstor 
bridge. The scenery is, hereabout, truly fine. At the 
bottom of a ravine is the river : halfway up the northern 
acclivity flows the Leat, rounding the base of a perpen- 
dicular cliff of startling appearance, and said to have 
been a rock idol. The southern acclivity is richly 
wooded ; in one part of it, concealed from distant view 
by foliage, is a cascade : behind rises the granite mass 
of Sheepstor. Further down is the village of Meavy, 
with its venerable oak, said to have been planted by 
Sir Francis Drake ; and thence the river flows through 



166 stranger's guide. 

the charming vale of Meavy until it joins the Cad or 
Plym, at Shaugh bridge. 

The direct road from Tavistock to Plymouth has 
its points of beauty. The scenery which presents 
itself on descending from Greenofen to Bedford bridge, 
will certainly be acknowledged as richly pictorial. 
The small mine seen first is Poldice tin mine ; the 
larger works at the bottom, near the bridge, are those 
of Wheal Franco, a copper mine. Proceeding onwards 
by a long ascent, we observe Grimstone Hall on the left, 
the seat of J. Collier, Esq. M.P. and the village of 
Horrabridge below. The moor scenery then opens 
upon us as we enter upon Roborough down, which 
is, as it were, the western vestibule of Dartmoor forest. 
Here, to the right of the road, we observe a large 
mass of rock, curious in its form and solitary insulation. 
On the right below lies Yelverton, the village of 
Meavy distantly appearing in the valley beyond. 
The higher grounds of the Down command a fine pros- 
pect of the distant Cornish hills, with the woods of 
Bickham (the seat of J. H. Gill, Esq.) in the foreground. 
A clump of fir trees and two gate lodges mark the en- 
trance to Maristow, before mentioned as the beautiful 
residence of Sir Ralph Lopes, Bart. Mount Edgcumbe 
and Staddon, the boundaries of Plymouth Sound, 
appear in the distant south. Passing through the vil- 
lage of Jump, we proceed to that of Knackersknowle, 
catching a brief glance at Hamoaze S.W. in the distance. 
About J mile on, we descend by a truly scenic piece of 
road, between the entrance lodges of Manadon on the 
right, and Widey on the left— important country 
residences belonging respectively to the Parlby and 
Morshead families. Here the road has two divergences, 
the one towards the right leading to Devonport, the 
other to Plymouth. In following the latter we pass 
Hartley, belonging to — Howard, Esq. on the left ; and, 
shortly after, descend an excavated piece of road, by the 
tasteful cottage residence of John Foulston, Esq. whose 



NORTH HILL. 167 

name, as the leading architect of Plymouth, has been so 
often mentioned in these pages. Crossing Mutley 
Plain, whence, in an easterly direction, is obtained a 
passing glimpse of Saltram woods and lake, we ascend 
North hill, on which several pleasing residences are 
situated. That immediately on the west side of the road 
belongs to A. B. Johns, Esq. whose high credentials as 
a landscape painter may be found on the walls of every 
picture fancier in the neighbourhood. On the right of 
the descent is the Plymouth reservoir. The fragment 
of old architecture in the central part of the wall, formed 
the front of a conduit building, lately situated in the 
area at the head of Old Town-street, by which we now 
re-enter Plymouth. 



168 

TAVISTOCK EXCURSION. 
SUPPLEMENTARY. 



From Morwellham Quay to Pentillie, following the windings 
of the river, is about six miles. Rounding the peninsular pro- 
jection of Harewood, (which Mason, in his poem of Elfrida, 
has made the scene of the love of Ethelwold, and of the mis- 
fortunes consequent on his marriage with the fair daughter of 
Ordgar, ) we leave Rumley on our left, and, making another 
sweep, arrive at the quays of Calstock, the church of which, 
situated on an eminence, commands a view of the course of 
the Tamar at least twenty miles in extent. At the east end is 
a small chapel, with several monuments of the families of 
Cotehele and Edgcumbe. The whole building is of Cornish 
granite. Further down is Ward-house on the left, and on the 
right the venerable woods of Cotehele appear, richly clothing 
the cliffs down to the water's edge. An avenue of chesnut 
trees conducts from the river to the house. The-Gothic chapel, 
partially concealed in the deep foliage, was built by Sir Richard 
Edgcumbe, comptroller of the household to Henry the seventh ; 
and an inscription on the northern wall of the interior, from 
Carew's Survey, informs the reader of the cause of its erection. 
" Sir Richard Edgcumbe was driven to hide himself in those 
his thick woods, which overlook the river, what time being- 
suspected of favouring the Earl of Richmond's party against 
king Richard the third, he was hotely pursued and narrowly 
searched for, which extremity taught him a sudden policy — to 
put a stone in his cap, and tumble the same into the water, 
while these rangers were fast at his heels, who looking down 
after the noise, and seeing his cap swimming thereon, supposed 
that he had desperately drowned himself, gave over their far- 
ther hunting, and left him liberty to shift away, and ship over 
into Brittaine ; — for a grateful remembrance of which delivery 
he afterwards builded, in the place of his lurking, a chapel. " 
Cotehele house appears to have been erected in the reign of 
Henry the seventh. "It exhibits," saysMr.Rowe, "a proud 
monument of feudal splendour, the unnumbered seasons that 
have rolled over its battlements having added interest to its 
appearance without affecting its stability. The entrance is 
through a Gothic arch into a quadrangular court, surrounded 



COTEHELE AND PENTILLIE, 169 

by buildings composed of granite. The hall, which is pre- 
served with all the characteristic appendages of feudal dignity, 
presents an interesting specimen of the furniture and weapons 
used by our ancestors. The walls are hung with coats of mail, 
shields, helmets, gauntlets, arquebuses, bows, arrows, spears, 
swords, and other instruments of offensive and defensive war- 
fare. At the upper end of the hall, the figure of a warrior, 
armed cap a -pie, appears to frown on the degenerate sons of 
modern times. Immense antelopes' horns, and tusks, trophies 
of the prowess of the Nimrods of the day, are suspended from 
the walls. On the windows are emblazoned some armorial 
bearings, much injured by time. From the hall we enter, 
through a dining-room hung with tapestry, the chapel, where 
the family were accustomed to perform their devotions, sepa- 
rated from the domestics and vassals by an open screen. The 
altar-cloth of rich crimson velvet, ornamented with figures of 
the apostles and other devices, has been removed, for the pur- 
pose of preservation, to the state bed-room. The stair-case 
leading to the upper apartments is adorned with several por- 
traits, whose lineaments time has nearly obliterated. One is 
said to be the founder of the mansion. The state bed-room, 
and the anti-chamber, are hung round with tapestry, an object 
of general admiration. The contest of Romulus and Remus, 
and the tale of the Sabine virgins, are depicted with accuracy, 
freedom, and effect. An apartment in the north tower is fur- 
nished with antique ebony chairs ; and at the fire-place are 
immense brazen dogs. These will be remarked in all the other 
apartments, which are entirely destitute of grates — the ample 
hearths of the chieftain being always supplied with fuel from 
his woods The tapestry of this room is devoted to the unfor- 
tunate loves of Hero and Leander. The prospect from the 
windows extends over rich woodland scenery. Another cham- 
ber contains a variety of old china, a model of a canoe, and 
a curious music-book dated 1556. Among the numerous 
ancient curiosities, besides those already described, are some 
elaborately-carved cabinets, embroidered couches, a mirror 
richly ornamented with bead work, a variety of drinking- 
vessels, candlesticks, and other earthenware and metal furniture 
of grotesque forms and antique workmanship/' 

Pentillie Castle, the residence of J. T. Coryton, Esq. is 
noted as a select modern specimen of Tudor architecture, from 
designs by W. Wilkins, Esq. R.A. The internal "finishings" 
are spoken of as " superb," and as including "one of the most 
beautifully painted windows in the Kingdom.*' The lands 
around assume a variety of bold and picturesque forms, en- 
inveloped dense masses of umbrageous woods, or partially 



170 SUPPLEMENT. 

shaded by scattered groups of flourishing trees, harmonizing 
with the lordly appearance of the castle, which seems the chief 
of the fine district that it commands, and forms one of the most 
charming features in the scenery of the Tamar. A tower, on 
a conspicuous eminence in the grounds, was built for the sepul- 
ture of Sir James Tillie, a former owner of this domain, whose 
interment in this romantic spot has given rise to many ridicu- 
lous stories, to which an air of probability has been given by 
the narrative of Gilpin. But nothing can be more false than 
his account of the body having been placed in a chair, with a 
table laid out before it with bottles, glasses, &c. On the con- 
trary, the body was placed in a coffin and deposited in a vault ; 
and the choice of situation will not appear strange when it is 
considered that in the room above Sir James Tillie had, per- 
haps, enjoyed the happiest hours of his life. His last will and 
testament has lately been examined by his heirs at Doctors' 
Commons, and in this document it is observable that, so far 
from his principles being atheistical, they breathe throughout 
a disposition fraught with the utmost submission to the will of 
Divine Providence, and a perfect confidence in the wisdom and 
mercies of the Creator. 



m 

CARRINGTON, 

The Poet. 

It has been customary with most topographers, in 
describing the neighbourhood of Plymouth, to quote 
largely from the author of " Dartmoor," " Banks of 
Tamar," &c. but the writer of the present volume is 
rather induced to regard CARRINGTON as a great 
leading object of local interest, not to be partially 
employed by the Tourist's Guide, but to be thoroughly 
perused by the Tourist himself. 

It were an insult to remind the literary and critical 
world of the exalted character of the late Mr. Carring- 
ton's poetry, descriptive of those portions of Devon and 
Cornwall which have been noticed in the foregoing 
pages : but the " local " quality of his muse may have 
left many persons indifferent to its strains, until now 
that they are present among the various scenes which 
form their subject. 

Let every visitor and resident, therefore, who pre- 
sumes not to regard himself as a true poet, nor as having 
that power of extracting delights " which poets only 
know," — let him seek in the pages of Carrington for 
that essence of scenic beauty or grandeur, which is 
deduced from a lively communion between the genius 
of the place and the soul of the spectator. 

The poems of Carrington have been lately published 
in two small and beautifully printed volumes, edited 
N 2 



172 CARRTNGTON. 

by the poet's son, H. E. Carrington, Esq. of Bath,* 
who has prefaced the work with an account of his 
father's life, a brief portion of which is autobiogra- 
phical. An interesting notice of Dartmoor, shewing 
that the poet's feelings have descended, in all their 
warmth and delicacy, to his son, is followed by 
" DARTMOOR," the poem; to which is appended 
a valuable series of notes by the late Wm. Burt, Esq. 
" MY NATIVE VILLAGE," and other minor poems, 
complete the first volume ; the second being occupied 
by " BANKS OF TAMAR," and a number of shorter 
pieces, most of them breathing that spirit of " Local 
Love," which had so deep a seat in the heart of their 
gifted — but afflicted author. Wherefore " afflicted," 
his life and poems will most affectingly shew : how 
loved and honoured in life, and how lamented in death, 
there are many to testify. To embalm the recollection 
of his once-valued companionship in fond and admiring 
reminiscence, and to enjoy so much of him as the 
printer has perpetuated, are all that is now left to us ! 
He was born in Plymouth, 1777, and died in the house 
of his son, at Bath, on the 2nd of September, 1830. 

* Proprietor of the " Bath Chronicle." 



APPENDIX 



175 



STEAM PACKETS. 

One of the London, Dublin, Belfast and Falmouth STEAM 
COMPANY'S vessels, leaves Plymouth for London every 
Friday ; and for Falmouth, Dublin and Belfast, every 
Tuesday. The vessels now employed in this service are the 
Shannon, City of Londonderry, Royal Tar, Thames and 
William Fawcett. Agent's office, Vauxhall Wharf, Plymouth. 
Agent, \V. Saunders. 

One of the Liverpool ST. GEORGE STEAM COM- 
PANY'S vessels, leaves Plymouth for Liverpool and Cork 
every Monday and Friday ; and for London every Monday 
and Thursday. The vessels now employed in this service are 
the Hercules, Nora Creina, Victory, Glasgow, Herald and 
Emerald Isle. Agent's office, Vauxhall Wharf, Plymouth. 
Agent, R. Morris. 

The Brunswick, steam vessel, leaves Stonehouse Pool at 12 r 
and Cat water at 1 every Monday and Thursday for Torquay, 
Coices and Portsmouth, Agents' offices, Exchange, Plymouth ; 
Brunswick Hotel, Stonehouse, &c. Agent, J. E. Blewett. 

The Sir Francis Drake, steam vessel, leaves Plymouth for 
Falmouth every Wednesday and Saturday ; and for Guernsey 
every Thursday. Agent's office, Maritime Inn, Parade, Ply- 
mouth ;. and Mr. Langdon's, Union-street, Stonehouse. 



176 APPENDIX. 



SAILING VESSELS. 



The South Devon United Shipping Company was established 
in 1828, the shares being held by the merchants and tradesmen 
of the town and neighbourhood. The shares, originally £50 
each, are now valued at £70 ; but no shareholder can sell 
without first offering his share or shares to the Committee, a 
precautionary measure to prevent the admission of persons who 
cannot assist the concern by their shipments. The Company 
have now (1836) seven schooners, viz. — The Saltram, Ply- 
mouth, Storehouse, London, Tavistock, Liskeard, and 
Launceston, built within the Port, and furnished with good 
accommodation for passengers. They load at the Custom- 
House Wharf, Plymouth ; and at Beal's Wharf, London; for 
which they sail weekly in succession. J. Saunders, Wharfinger. 

Besides this Company's schooners, there are employed in the 
coasting trade, the Plymouth and London Union Shipping 
Company's vessels, viz. — the Ann, Brownfield, Mary Ann, 
Margaret, Minerva, Mould, Sarah, and William, which 
load at Cotton's Wharf, Southside-Street, Plymouth ; and at 
Cotton's Wharf, London. Peter Lawson and John Nettleton, 
Wharfingers. 

The Bristol Traders are at present the Prothesa and 
Avon, the property of Messrs. Wingyett and Co. also from 
Cotton's Wharf, Plymouth. John Nettleton, Wharfinger. 

A constant communication is likewise kept up with Jersey 
and Guernsey. 

An account of the foreign trading is given in page 30. 



APPENDIX. 177 

MAIL AND STAGE COACHES. 



QUICKSILVER MAIL for London every morning ; via 
Ashburton, at ^ past 6, from Elliot's Royal Hotel, Devon- 
port; and at i before 7, from the Mail office, Briton-side, 
Plymouth. 

BATH AND BRISTOL MAIL every evening ; via Totnes, 
at 5, from Elliot's Royal Hotel, Devonport ; and from 
the Mail office, Briton side, Plymouth, at k after .5. 

The FALMOUTH MAIL every morning at 7, from Elliot's 
Royal Hotel, Devonport. 

SUBSCRIPTION COACH for London every morning ; at 9 
from Elliot's Royal Hotel, Devonport; and at \ past 9 
from Mason's Commercial Hotel, Old Town, and Mail 
office, Briton-side, Plymouth. 

STANDARD COACH for London, Bath, and Bristol, every 
day except Sunday ; at 12 from Elliot's Hotel, Devonport ; 
and at \ past 12 from Mason's Commercial Hotel, and 
Mail office, Briton-side, Plymouth. 

DEFIANCE for London every morning ; at | before 11 from 
Weakley's Hotel, Devonport ; and at 11 from the White 
Hart, Old Town, and Rowe's King's Arms, Briton-side, 
Plymouth. 

NIMROD for Barnstaple (through Launceston) every Mon- 
day, Wednesday, and Friday ; at 9 from Elliot's Royal 
Hotel, Devonport ; and at \ past 9 from Mason's Com- 
mercial Hotel, Old Town-street, Plymouth. 

TELEGRAPH for Barnstaple (through Okehampton) every 
Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday ; at i past 7 from 
Rowe's King's Arms, Briton-side, Plymouth ; and 
Weakley's Hotel, Devonport, at 8. 

The TELEGRAPH for Kingsbridge ; at 10, on Tuesday, 
Thursday, and Saturday mornings, from Mason's Com- 
mercial Hotel, Plymouth. 

The EXQUISITE for Kingsbridge; at 10, on Monday, 
Wednesday, and Friday mornings, from the White Hart, 
Old Town, and Rowe's King's Arms, Briton-side, 
Plymouth. 



178 APPENDIX. 



HACKNEY COACHES. 



STANDS— AT PLYMOUTH. 

Royal Hotel Stand, for Five Carriages.— In George's- 
Place, in the centre of the road. 

Bedford-Street Stand, for Two Carriages. — At the 
distance of Thirty Feet from the Public-House known by the 
name of the New Tree. 

Old-Town-Street Stand, for Six Carriages. — In the 
middle of the Street, with the Horses' Heads turned towards 
the South, at the distance of Fifty Feet from the boundary 
Wall of the Church Yard. 

New Quay Stand, for Two Carriages. 

Briton-Side Stand, for One Carriage, taking care in 
all cases the thoroughfare is as little impeded as possible. 

STANDS— AT STONEHOUSE. 

Edgcumbe-Street Stand, for Four Carriages. — In the 
middle of the Street, with the Horses' Heads turned towards 
the East, in a line with the Dwelling-Houses numbered 
4 and 11. 

Durnford-Street Stand, for Two Carriages. — In the 
middle of the Street, at the lower end of Higher Durnford- 
Stieet. 

STANDS— AT DEVONPORT. 

Fore-Street Stand, for Eight Carriages. — In the 
middle of the Street, with the Horses' Heads turned towards 
the East, leaving a space of at least Fifteen Feet to the East- 
ward of Tavistock- Street, and that no Carriage shall stand 
below it. 

Catherine-Street Stand, for Two Carriages. — At the 
Lower Market-Gate. 

Morice-Square Stand, for Two Carriages. — On the 
South side of the Square. 



APPENDIX. 179 

G forge-Street Stand, for Two Carriages. — Opposite 
the Chapel Wine Vaults, with the Horses' Heads turned 
towards the North. 

Every Driver of a Carriage which shall be waiting to 
be hired, shall go from the Stand where he shall be hired, 
either at Plymouth, Stonehouse, or Devonport, to any place 
within either of those Towns, and take up his fare without any 
additional charge, and proceed to any Stand in either of the 
adjoining Towns for the respective Rates mentioned in the 
subjoined Table ; but if sent for from Plymouth or Devonport 
to any place in Stonehouse or Stoke, and then take up a fare, 
shall be allowed One Shilling in addition to the sum he is 
entitled to for the ordinary fare. 



FARES— AT PLYMOUTH. 

From any place in Plymouth, to any other place within the 
same Town, except the Citadel, Victualling-Office, and 
Coxside — One shilling and sixpence. 

From or to any place in Plymouth to or from the Citadel, 
the Victualling-Office, and Coxside — Two shillings. 

From any place in Plymouth, to any other place within the 
Parishes of St. Andrew and Charles, exceeding the distance 
before mentioned — Three shillings. 

FARES— FROM PLYMOUTH. 

From any of the stands in Plymouth, to the Richmond 
Baths, or to any of the stands in Devonport, or to any other 
place in Devonport, not exceeding in distance the appointed 
stands — Two shillings. 

From any of the stands in Plymouth, to any place in 
Devonport, exceeding in distance the appointed stands — 
Two shillings and sixpence. 

From any of the stands in Plymouth, to any place in Stoke 
or Morice-Town, either by way of Stonehouse or Penny-come- 
quick — Three shillings. 

From any of the stands in Plymouth, to any other place 
within the Parish of Stoke -D am erel, than those before- 
mentioned — Three shillings and sixpence. 



130 APPENDIX. 

From the Citadel, Victualling-Office, and Coxside, to any 
place in Devonporl, Stoke-Damerel and Stonehouse, an addi- 
tional sixpence. 

FARES— AT DEVONPORT. 

From any place in the Towns of Devonport, or Morice- 
Town, to any other place in the same Towns, (including the 
Dock- Yard and Gunwharf)— One shilling and sixpence. 

From any of the stands in Devonport, to the Richmond 
Baths, Stoke Church, or the village of Stoke— Two shilling s 

From any of the stands in Devonport, to any other place in 
the parish of Stoke-Damerel, beyond Stoke Church or the 
village of Stoke, an additional shilling. 

FARES— FROM DEVONPORT. 

From any of the stands in Devonport, to any of the stands 
in Plymouth, or to any place in Plymouth, not exceeding the 
distance of the appointed stands — Two shillings. 

From any of the stands in Devonport, to any place in Ply- 
mouth, (except the Citadel, Victualling-Office, and Coxside) 
exceeding in distance the appointed stands — Two shillings 
and sixpence. 

From any of the stands in Devonport, to the Citadel, 
Victualling-Office, and Coxside, at Plymouth — Three shillings. 

From any of the stands in Devonport, to any place in the 
parishes of St. Andrew and Charles, in Plymouth, exceeding 
the distances before-mentioned, an additional shilling. 

From Morice-Town or Stoke, to any place in Plymouth or 
Stonehouse, an additional shilling. 

FARES— FROM AND TO PLYMOUTH, 
DEVONPORT, AND STONEHOUSE. 

From any of the stands in Plymouth or Devonport, to any 
stand in Stonehouse— One shilling and sixpence. 

From any of the stands in Plymouth or Devonport, to any 
place in the Parish of Stonehouse, beyond the stands — Two 
shillings. 

FARES— AT STONEHOUSE, 

From any place in Stonehouse, to any other place in the 
same Town, including the Naval Hospital— One shilling and 
sixpence. 



APPENDIX. 181 

FARES-FROM STONEIIOUSE. 

From or to any place in Stonehouse, to or from the Richmond 
Baths, or any place in Plymouth or Devonport, exceeding in 
distance the appointed stands, except the Citadel, Victualling- 
Office, and Coxside, at Plymouth and Morice-Town, and 
Stoke, in the Parish of Stoke-Damerel — One shilling and 
sixpence. 

From any place in Stonehouse, to Stoke Church, Morice- 
Town, or the village of Stoke, or to any place in Plymouth, 
beyond the appointed stands, (except to the Citadel, 
Victualling-Office, and Coxside)— Two shillings. 

From any place in Stonehouse, to the Citadel, Victualling- 
Office, and Coxside, in Plymouth — Two shillings and sixpence. 

From any place in Stonehouse, to any place in the parishes 
of St. Andrew and Charles, in Plymouth, or to any place in 
the parish of Stoke-Damerel, exceeding the distances before- 
mentioned — Three shillings* 

For Hackney Coaches with less than Four Wheels, or that 
shall be drawn by not more than One Horse, Two-thirds only 
of the preceding Rates shall be paid. 



18*2 APPENDIX. 

WAGGONS. 

The waggons of Russell and Co. depart almost daily from 
the warehouse of Mr. Courtis, Bedford-street, Plymouth. 
The Van Carriage has been lately put aside. 

THE LONDON FLY WAGGONS 

From the Elephant, 112, Fore-Street, calling at the Old 
White Horse Cellar, Piccadilly, through Salisbury , Shaftesbury, 
Hindon, Mere, Wincanton, Sherborne, Yeovil, Crewkerne, 
Ilminster, Chard, Axminster, and Honiton, to the Mermaid 
Yard, Exeter, in 4J days ; and from thence, same night, to 
the Waggon Warehouse, Kinterbury-Street. Plymouth, for 
DevonpOTt and all parts of Cornwall. 

THE BRISTOL FLY WAGGONS 

From Shurmer's Warehouse, 13, Temple-Street, taking from 
the Birmingham, Manchester, Liverpool, Cheltenham, and 
other Waggons, through Bridge water, Taunton, Wellington, 
and Collumpton, to the Mermaid Yard, Exeter, in 34 hours ; 
and from thence, same night, to the Waggon Warehouse, 
Kinterbury-Street, Plymouth, for Devonport, and all parts of 
Cornwall, arrive and depart every Monday, Wednesday, and 
Friday. 

Proprietors : — Wade and Shurmer, Birmingham ; Kino 
and Ward, (late Woolcott and Co.) London ; Chadwell, 
Bristol ; PADDON, (late Single,) Kinterbury-Street, Ply- 
mouth. 



SCHOOLS. 

A difficulty has arisen which renders it advisable to avoid a 
particular enumeration of the various schools, &c. which are 
to be found in the three towns. The names of the several 
Clergymen who receive pupils, and of the other leading 
Schoolmasters are sufficiently before the local public, who may 
exercise a privilege of recommendation, to the advantage of 
the inquirer, scarcely allowable in a work of this kind. 



183 



INDEX, 



TAGE. 

Admiral's House 67 

Antony ....•••*.... 143 

Albemarle Villas, Stoke 89 

Appendix 173 

Architecture old, of Plymouth 13 

modern, of ditto 14 

modern, of Devonport 62 

Assembly Rooms, Plymouth 16 

Athenaeum 17 



Barracks, Royal Marine .... 51 

Baths, Union Street 7. 26 

Back well's > 61 

Banking Houses of Plymouth ............ 39 

f Devonport 72 

Beggar's Island 1 43 

Belmont House 89 

Bickleigh 135 

Bovisand Reservoir, &c. 102 

Block House, Stoke 4. 90 

Breakwater 99 

Bridge Lary . . 127 

■ Stonehouse 59 

Chain and Steam Boat 95. 97 

Buckl and Abbey 149 

Monachorum *. 150 

BrentTor „ 154 



184 INDEX. 



PAGF. 

Borringdon 131 

Budeaux, St. 148 

Church of St. Andrew, Plymouth 21 

Charles ditto 23 

Stoke 90 

Chapel, St. Andrew's, Plymouth 19 

Charles ditto 24 

in the Citadel ditto 25 

■ on the Hoe ditto 9 

Mariners' ditto 25.37 

St. George, Parochial, Storehouse 50 

St. Paul's ditto 50 

in Naval Hospital ditto 51 

St. Aubyn's, Devonport • 65 

St. John's ditto 66 

DockYard 66.76 

Eldad 25 

Ebenezer 25.51 

• Independent 23.51.92 

Presbvtetian 25 

Unitaiian 23.66 

Baptist 23. 66 

Friends, Society of 23 

Methodist 51. 66. 92 

— — Calvinist 66 

Moravian 66 

Mount Zion 65 

• Roman Catholic 51 

<<i Providence, in Raleigh -Street, Plymouth, 

(accidentally omitted in the body of the 

work) 

— Jews' Synagogue, in Catherine street, Plymouth 

Carrington, Poet 171 

Cann Quarry 134 

Catwater Harbour 31 

Cawsand Bay and Town 103. 121 

Callington 162 

Column of Devonport 3.62 

Citadel of Plymouth 11 

Cheese Wring, Cornwall 161 

Coaches, Stage and Mail 32 

Hackney 117 



INDEX. 185 
PAGE. 

CrockernTor 164 

Cotehele 168 

Chelson Meadow 128 

Charities of Plymouth 33 to 39 

Storehouse 59 

Devonport 70 

Stoke 92 

Custom House 25 

Chamber of Commerce 32 

Commercial Rooms, Plymouth 20 

Stonehouse 58 

Devonport 

CrabTree 130 

Cholera 47 

Dartmoor 163 

Dewerstone 135 

DEVONPORT described ...... 3 and 61 to 68 

Supplement 69 to 73 

Dispensary of Plymouth 37 

— ■ Stonehouse and Devonport 70 

Dock Yard 74 to 86 

Druidical Antiquities 162. 163 

Eddystone Light House 104 to 112 

Environs of the three Towns 5 

Exchange 32 

Excise Office 33 

Eye Infirmary 38 

Endsleigh 159 

Ermington and Erme River 139 

Fortifications — Devonport 61 

Plymouth 11 

Stonehouse £9 

Free (Grammar School 35 

Fore Street, Devonport 62 

Fleet 139 

Guildhall, Plymouth 23 

Government House 67 



186 ISDEX. 



Gas Companies Z? G aA 

Gun Wharf 32 - ££ 

Germans, St. Church [ [ ' [ [ ] [ [ [ \ \ \ ^ 

Hoe „ . O O Q 

— -, Curious Legend of the .... ■, f* 

Hamoaze q -lio 

Harbours 3 ' l %* 

Hotel, Theatre, and Assembly Rooms! ! ! " * * i\ 

Hospital, South Devon and East Cornwall* ' '. '. '. '. ' \ 38 27 (r^ 

Royal Naval ' K Z£ 

♦ Military %> 

Horticultural Society \\ 

Hackney Coaches 7 M T i£ 

Harewood " '. " * 7 ;£ 2 ']™ 

Hurlers " ** 151# 168 

Historic Sketch of Plymouth .'""!!'!".!"" ^4 

" " • Stonehouse [ [[ 50 

■ ' * Devonport .....*! $q 

Inns, principal, of Plymouth -. 7 

. Stonehouse , ." • 49 

. — _ Devonport gi 

Institution, Literary " jp 

'~r :::::::::::: 139 - $ 

Ker Street, Devonport ] fi0 

Key ham Point qX 

Kitiey ^\\\\\\.\"; m 

Kingsand ..""""""!!"! 121 

Lary Bridge ]27 

Library, Public, Plymouth ... .. \ to 

Devonport ....'.'.' [ * [ * '■ ' g4 

— — ■ Law rJ: 

Medical Y.V.V/M'.V. *Q 

Leat, Plymouth \ \ \ " * * \ \ \ * ' \ oq 
Devonport .'.'.* * !!.'!' ! 6Q 

Lodging Houses ' * \ \ ' ' * [ \ ' # * * 7 49 gl 



INDEX. 187 



PAGE. 

Lidford Cascade and Bridge ] 55 

Castle and Kate's Fall 156 

Launceston Cattle 1 60 

Liskeard and Looe 146 



MORICE TOWN 4. 93 

Mount Edgcumbe 3. 1J3 

Batten 9 

Wise 67 

Market, Plymouth 13 

• Stonehouse £8 

Devonport 62 

Manor Office, New, Stonehouse fcO 

Mechanics' Institute, Plymouth 39 

Devonport 73 

Medical Society 39 

Municipal Information, Plymouth 29 

Stonehouse 58 

— Devonport 69 

Michael's St. Terrace (miscalled Cornwall Terrace) 89 

Mill Bay 60 

Marble Quarries 32. 9 

Mew Stone 103 

Maker 120 

Maristow 149 

Morwell Rocks 151 

Millbrook 122 

Meavy }ij5 

Modbury ■ 139 

Mathews, the Comedian, his Tomb 27(6) 



Naval Hospital 55 

Nicholas' Island 9.99 

New Passage 93 

New Roads 97 

Newspapers Local 39. 73 

Neot's, St. I47 



Old Houses, Plymouth 13 

Oreston Quarries 126 



188 



PAGE. 

PLYMOUTH described . . , 1 to 27 

Supplement 29 to 48 

« Sound 4 to 99 

Princess Square L3 

Post Office, Plymouth 8. 33 

Stonehouse 59 

Devonport 62.73 

Plympton St. Mary 131 

PlvmptonTown 133 

Plym Bridge 136 

Powder Magazine 93.143 

Pentillie 169 

Prince Town, Prisons of War 164 

Penlee Point 122 

Port Eliot ....... 145 



Quarries, Marble 32. 126 

Limestone 126 and 9 

Slate 136. 93 

Granite 32 

Rail Road 32. 134 

Races 40. 128 

Regatta 41 

Riding School 40 

Reservoir of Plymouth Leat 30 

Devonport Leat 70 

— Stonehouse 60 

Plymouth Baths 27 

Victualling Office 54 

Bovisand 102 

Rivers of Dartmoor 163 

Richmond Walk 67 

Rame Head and Chapel 122 

STONEHOUSE described 3 and 49 to 57 

Supplement 58 

STOKE described 89. 4 

Supplement 92 

Sound, Plymouth 2. 4. 8. 99 

Shag Stone 103 

Staddon Point 102 



INDEX. 189 
PACE. 

Storm of November, 1824 101 

Sutton Pool Harbour 31 

Shipping of Plymouth 30. 31 . 176 

Steam Packets 33, 175 

Ships in Hamoaze 3 

Steam Bridges 95. 97 

Semaphore 67 

Spa Waters ^ 27 

Schools public and for the Poor, Plymouth 34. 35. 36 

• Stonehouse 59 

« Devonport 70 

' Stoke 92 

Sussex Place, Plymouth 13 

SharrowGrot 123 

Saltash 143 

Saltram 125. 129 

Sheviock 146 

Shaugh Bridge 135 

TOR POINT, and Bridge 3. 95 

Theatre Royal, Plymouth 16 

Town Hall, Devonport 63 

Trade of Plymouth 30. 31 

Stonehouse 58 

Devonport • • . 74> 

Tavistock, Abbey, &c . 152 

Trematon Castle 144 

Tui nchapel 126 

Tunnel on Rail Road 134 

under Morwell Down 151 

Thanckes 143 

Three Barrow Tor 141 

Tamerton 148 

Tamar River 5 

Union Baths 7. 26 

Union Street, Remarks on 15 

Victualling Yard, Stonehouse 52 

Workhouse of Plymouth 33 

■ — Stonehouse • . • . • 58 

- Devonport 70 



190 



Windsor Terrace, Plymouth 8 

Water Company 60. 69 

" Water Question" 30 

Warleigh 149 

Yealm River and Yealmpton 1 37. 138 



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